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I have a 75 vw kommbi bus 1800cc I rebuilt the upper end of the motor new h/c heads new rings honed the bore all std . I put a new kit through the both the pdsit 34 carby's the kombi [is an auto ] befor the re build it got about 24mpg and could get up to 120ks . now it can still pull th120 but fuel consumption is now 15mpg as I hope to do some long distant travel I cant afford to run it I have balanced the carbies double checed timing and checked for vacuum leaks . the transmission has been checked and although not the best is not slipping . The new carby kit incloded new needle and valve seats there is no way with the solex pdsit you can check float level . But I have checked the spark plugs and they look like they have all been firing . The problem must lay in the carbies . Do I get a Weber 32/34 to replace them and who will ship to Australia ? Can you help ?

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  • blakesart Oct 15, 2010

    I will change the coils I have a spare but there was a good spark on the coil in it ,I have an approved balancing tool to balance the carbies my neigbour was a motor cycle engineer and we have tried all that we can think of . It will take a few days before I will know that the coil change has worked as I do not use this car on a day to day basis.




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Things to also check are the vacuum advance and centrifugal advance in the distributor. See that the vacuum unit is not leaking. Use a timing light and **** on the advance tube to see that it is funtioning(the timing wil change when sucking on the tube). Still with the timing light increase RPM and see that the timing changes with increased RPM and the vacuum disconnected.
That said, if your cam timing is corrct and the distributor is functioning properly your first assessment of carb's is correct.
Jet sizes and carb settings may be your problem here.

Posted on Oct 15, 2010

  • Rene Rossouw
    Rene Rossouw Oct 15, 2010

    The following is as good a write up of pdsit setup as you will come across.


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If it may pay to check that your coil output is sufficiently producing enough high voltage to the spark plugs. If not replace the coil and then see what it runs like.

Also if you can take it to a good workshop to get them to test the CO2/O2 levels this will give you a good indicator that it is the fuel system or ignition system.
The Solex carbs can have the float levels set but you need the the correct height measurement and the also need to be balance with the proper vacum tool.

Hope this helps, let me know if you need more information.



Posted on Oct 15, 2010


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1 Answer

Do you have to replace the pistons and piston rings when doing an engine overhaul on an isuzu kb 2.8 1996. the pistons still looks good

we are USA
no KB here, not a one., sorry why ask Yankee's this./..??
your machine shop would not ask that question.
a real overhaul (if measurements prove the case, all parts are MIKED)
1: measure bores. top/bottom and 90 degrees.
2: then bore and hone it to next oversize.
3: then new pistons and rings. and all new bearings

any thing, less is a DIY, trash build.
shade tree , hack.
(the Bernard Lawrence Madoff" ) way. (dig?)
there is one more way, if measurements warrant. IT.
light hone,.
new rings, std, size or what's there, now.
then keep old pistons if lands measure ok. (inspections here are many )

I guess you don't have the micrometer sets to do this right?
inside bore gauge. etc.?
what we do is take the block to a real machine shop
the mic it for a fee. (some do it for free)
then they tell you what is best, and is always the best answer.
why not let a pro rebuild your engine.
for max future life, not lowest cost and shortest life.

ask how to clean a block after honing
its not easy and must NOT BE SKIPPED.

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Compression ring oil gap

4th per inch diameter of bore is the norm for a water cooled engine .so your bore is roughly 3 inches from memory so a ring gap of 12 to 15 th ,check the thickness of the ring in the piston groove as well as up and down movement can and will cause excess oil consumption .give the bore a hone as well with a special honing tool ,not that expensive from a motor factor .

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Why is my newly rebuilt 5.7 350 chev. Engine burning so much oil. It's not leaking, and not smokeing out tail pipe?

what was entailed in the rebuild?
cylinders bored and hone , new pistons , rings
crank grind and new bearings
or was it just a ring refresh and sand paper on the cylinders
I'm thinking the latter ( cheap and nasty)
The oil will be coming past the rings and being burnt in the exhaust ( cat converter if you still have one )
That oil passing the rings comes from , glazed bores , rings being installed upside down, ring gaps not being set 120 degrees apart but almost lining up
worn ring lands in the pistons
Sump oil either leaks out -- Gaskets , seals filters or is passed by the rings and burnt in the combustion process

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did you hone the bores before fitting new rings ( old glazed bores will not allow new rings to seal properly)
did you space the ring gaps around the piston and not have them all line up ( if the ring gaps were not spaced around the piston , the oil will pass straight up the gap and be burnt in the combustion chamber --alternately the flame of combustion will get to the sump down the gap)
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did you fit new bearings to the big ends ( old bearings will allow more oil onto the bore walls and this makes controlling the oil by the oil ring difficult)
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you did't state what engine it is. Some diesels have wet liners and others have dry liners. in both cases if the block was cracked you would have a water in the oil problem. I have come across this problem before and it basically comes down to mechanical experience. Rings will only go on pistons one way to work properly. If they are put on upside down they act as oil pumps and collect the oil from the bores and burn it in the chamber. Will empty a 5 gallon sump in 100 miles.
Next some mechanics prefer to save money and so do not replace the liners ( pistons ,rings and liners come as a kit) but rather hone out the bores. Two problems with that idea
the bores do not handle a hone well and so loose the hone marks quickly ( glazed bore = oil usage)
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A side effect of increasing compression when you bolt on fresh heads, is broken piston rings. It's beneficial to replace the rings & bearings and at least remove the ring ridge at the top of the cylinder wall if not re-bore when replacing heads due to the higher compression that will cause.

If you just put on a set of used heads.

There's also the chance that the new headgaskets didn't seal completely, (usually due to a problem with surface prep or a warped head/block), but if you've got high mileage, it's usually the rings.

A set of rings can be replaced, but you'll want to make sure they haven't cut into the bore so much as to cause blow-by once new rings are installed. Eliminating the ridge by carefully using a ridge reamer at the top of the cylinder to prevent breakage of the top ring from impact.
Hone the cylinder walls gently & reinstall pistons & new rings!
Good luck.

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