Question about 2002 Land Rover Discovery Series II

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This worked for us also. However, we also found a mode switch on the steering wheel and pushed it in and now the m and s light is flashing. We can't get it to stop! Help!

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  • Michelle Decker Oct 14, 2010

    We pushed the button on purpose to see if it was the same as the one on the gear shifter. Now it won't turn off. I need another solution.

  • Michelle Decker Oct 14, 2010

    We pushed in the mode button on the steering wheel and the m and s lights are now flashing. We can not get them to stop. We previously pressed the mode button by accident on the gear box and the s light came on, but pressed it again and it went off. We thought the mode button on the steering wheel was the same but easier to get to while driving,but now we cant get the lights to stop flashing.

  • Michelle Decker Oct 14, 2010

    Thank you. We will check all of these

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  • Master
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The tranny went into limp mode. at your transmission, there is a switch box with pop rivets that should be rusty (rivets) humidity can enter into the box and m&s will flash...you must open your box and clean every connectors...that is what i did to a Disco 2 2003 this winter...and PLEASE install brass bolts instead of the metal rivets.
Another problem that can cause this is a bad battery.
Last possible cause is the "XYZ switch" (gear position switch) on the side of the trans.

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

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  • Master
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Hi, i suggest it's a problem with the Automatic Gear box ECU, or X/Y selector switch. Can also be water in the connector as it joins the gearbox, or someone's knocked the ECU which is under the passenger seat (RHD).
Sometimes this can be cleared by stopping, turning off the ignition, and starting again and it's fine. It's alerting you that it is in 'Limp Home' mode (3)

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

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1 Answer

1983 ranger turn signal lights flash quickly on both sides. Hazard lights work. Steering wheel felt locked and heard a breaking sound that seemed to come from the steering column.


fast flashing usually means a bulb is burnt... have you checked them all ??? or did you wire in a trailer plug and did something wrong ???

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Turn signal switch repair


The steering column wheel has 2 pins pushed into the back side of it and as you turn the steering wheel making a turn, the pins slide over the humps of the blinker signal. As you return the wheel back to center to drive straight, these pins then hit the humps in the turn signal and push the turn signal back to the original position. It sounds like one of these pins fell out or broke off. You need to pull steering wheel and check to see if these pins are still inserted on the back side of the steering wheel.

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Cruise does not work on Ford F150


Once you verify / change the Cruise Control Switch
This is the recall that hickoryy472 posted about ( you can also check on the ford site to see if it is still outstanding, it is free ).
recall 05S28. Description: Speed Control Deactivation Switch.

Another option for testing is to pull the connector on the End of the Master Cylinder, and jumper the 2 pins in the connector together. This is a secondary safety switch, in case the tail lamps go out while using the CC, that the pressure switch will shut off the CC.

Next you can run a self test on the CC :

There is a self test in the cruise control system.
With the key off depress and hold the cruise control off button while turning the ignition to the run position,don't start the truck, the cruise light will flash once to let you know it is in self test.
Five additional flashes indicate a bad cruise control servo

Release the cruise off switch and within 5 seconds depress the other switches in sequence:
1. on
2. resume
3. coast
4. set/ accel
The speed control light will flash as each switch is depressed.

If the last one does not flash it may then flash a code

After this the cruise will move the throttle to test the actuator and the cable.
Make sure the throttle returns to idle and turn the key off.
----------------------

Self-Test Diagnostics

WARNING:
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.

1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.

2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.

If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.

The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.

Note:
There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.

3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.

If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:

— 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).

— 3 flashes - deactivator switch is open or circuit defective.

— 4 flashes - vehicle speed signal is out of range or circuit is defective

4. Immediately (.25 second delay) after the static test, the speed control servo does a dynamic test by automatically actuating the throttle lever from 8 mm (0.315 in) to 12 mm (0.472 in) of travel from the idle position. During the dynamic throttle pull, observe throttle movement to witness any binding or sticking of the speed control cable and correct connection of speed control cable to throttle lever. Make sure the throttle returns to the idle position.

5. Return the ignition switch to the OFF position and proceed to the Symptom Chart.

You don't have the stalk GM type CC switch, so clint969's post is good info, just for another manufacture.
The buttons ( if they are the problem ) can be removed from the steering wheel without pulling the steering wheel itself on a Ford.

Start with the recall, and then test the CC, and see if you have an issue still

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2 Answers

Key won't turn and steering wheel is locked


Have you tried wiggling the steering wheel at the same time as you turn the key? Have you tried pushing on the gear shift lever, to make sure it's all the way in park?

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1 Answer

Does not cherp


Is your perhaps alarm in "valet mode"? I've got a Checkmate on my Honda, and I can turn valet mode on/off by putting the key to Accessory, then pushing the black button under the left of the steering wheel. The alarm chirps when you switch the mode.

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2 Answers

1994 Buick Regal Grand Sport: Brake light in the window works fine. The 4 bulbs with two filaments in the tail-light housings do not become brighter though. The parking lights work. The signals/hazards...


i had the same problem had to replace the turn signal switch....GM for some reason wired the brake lights through the turn signal switch. to check if this is the case with yours. put some pressure on the turn signal lever as if you were going to turn on your brights and press your brake pedal and see if the lights work at that point that is how i found mine. hope this helps. if indeed they work with pressure on the turn signal lever. the new switch cost me $60 at autozone and that is with the steering wheel radio controls, make sure you get the proper switch should be part# sw771 if you have the radio controls on steering wheel and you will need a steering wheel puller and lock plate compressing tool.

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1 Answer

1985 Toyota Pickup Horn


Probably the switch in the steering wheel, or fuse, but usually horn fuse works other things too such as cig lighter or radio. If everything else is working fine, then to troubleshoot you'll need a testlight. I would start with the wiring harness where the steering collumn plugs in and decipher which wire is the horn wire. Put the test light clip on +power, then check the wires on the collumn side one by one, pushing the horn button on each one. The horn switch is the wire that makes the light blink when you push the button. If you try all the wires and none make the light blink, then its probably a problem with the horn switch in the s. wheel. Does it have an after market steering wheel? Because aftermarket wheels often have crappy horn switches in them. Also could be a horn relay if it has one. If you listen carfully while pushing the horn, you should hear the relay faint clicking. If you hear this, then the switch is working, but the relay might not be. Follow the sound to find it if you hear it. Test all sides of the relay with your light. Should get power constant on one term, and the other two should light when the horn button is pushed. Hope this helps. Cheers.

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4 Answers

Ignition switch, tumbler core.


the switch is straight in front of the driver side.




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