Question about 1998 Toyota Corolla

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Why would the engine engage when the clutch pedal is almost all the way out? The car is 1991 corolla and the clutch fluid reservoir has needed to be refilled several times.

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Sounds like you are loosing fluid because of a leaking slave cylinder or slave master cylinder. Air is probably entering the system through the leak, causing a weak clutch pedal, or your clutch plate is worn and also needs replacing. Have them both inspected and replaced if necessary.

Posted on Oct 14, 2010

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2004 ford focus 2.0liter. clutch pedaL GOES TO FLOOR. brake master full of fluid.I clutch master or clutch slave cylinder bad?


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Nov 11, 2016 | 2004 Ford Focus

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Why does my reverse gear grid on my 2000 Toyota


I take it you mean the transmission grinds when shifting into reverse with a manual transmission in which case the input shaft of the transmission is still partially engaged with the engine. One cause may be low fluid in the hydraulic clutch reservoir if it has a hydraulic clutch mechanism; use DOT-3 brake fluid and pump the clutch pedal a few times to remove any air. Another cause may be that the pilot bearing is hanging up; this is a major repair. Another possibility is that the clutch lining is coming loose or totally disintegrated requiring replacement.

Nov 17, 2014 | 2000 Toyota Corolla

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Clutch pedal goes almost to the floor before it engages


If your fluid was low (which is why you likely added some,) you may need to "bleed" your clutch master cylinder.

Mar 26, 2014 | 1991 Nissan Stanza

1 Answer

Pt cruiser clutch diagram


I recommend bleeding the clutch using instructions pasted from autozone.com below. As for the engine light, please get the computer scanned and send us the diagnostic trouble code.
Hydraulic System Bleeding NOTE
It is necessary to bleed the clutch hydraulic release system if the system has lost an excessive amount of fluid and has allowed air into the circuit. Air in the system typically results in a spongy pedal feel, and/or improper clutch release. If air cannot be removed from the system using this procedure, it is necessary to replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.

Except Turbocharged Models
  1. From driver's seat, actuate clutch pedal 60-100 times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, excessive air is still trapped within the system. Perform the following procedure:
  2. Verify fluid level in clutch master cylinder reservoir. Top off with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch slave cylinder assembly from the transaxle case, but do not disconnect from the system. Allow the slave cylinder hang, making it the lowest part of the system.
    CAUTION
    While slave cylinder is detached from the transaxle, DO NOT actuate the clutch master cylinder. Damage to the slave cylinder will result.
  5. Depress slave cylinder pushrod until it bottoms and then release. Repeat this at least ten times, forcing trapped air upwards and out of the system.
  6. Re-install slave cylinder into position. Torque slave cylinder to case bolt to 168 inch lbs. (19 Nm).
  7. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  8. Check and adjust clutch master cylinder fluid level. Actuate clutch pedal thirty (30) times. Verify clutch operation/pedal feel. If pedal still feels spongy, or clutch does not fully disengage, air is still trapped within the system. Repeat Step 3 through Step 7 until air is purged. If several attempts at purging air from the system are unsuccessful, replace both the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder assemblies.
  9. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  10. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  11. Top off clutch master cylinder fluid level with DOT 3 brake fluid as necessary.
Turbocharged Models

NOTE
Due to the angle and design of the turbo hydraulic system components, gravity and pedal bleeding are less effective and less efficient than the reverse fluid injection method (reverse bleeding). Reverse bleeding is recommended for this system, and requires the use of commercially available injection bleeding equipment.

Alternate Procedure (Pedal Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    WARNING
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  4. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw. Immediately install rubber hose to bleed screw to prevent fluid from entering clutch bellhousing. Tighten bleed screw gently with suitable wrench.
  5. Lower vehicle.
  6. Have helper actuate clutch pedal to floor.
  7. Place collection container at end of hose to capture expelled fluid.
  8. Using suitable wrench, break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Have helper release pedal, returning it to at-rest position, and then actuate pedal to floor.
  10. Break bleeder screw loose and tighten to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  11. Repeat procedure as necessary, keeping master cylinder reservoir full during the process, until air bubbles are no longer visible in collection container.
  12. When air bubbles are no longer visible, actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times.
  13. Verify release system function and top off fluid as necessary.
Recommended Procedure (Reverse Bleeding)
  1. Remove reservoir cap and inspect fluid level. Top off with DOT 3 Brake Fluid. Actuate clutch pedal briskly at least 50 times. Verify release system function. Repeat. If release system is still inoperative, continue with procedure.
  2. Remove reservoir from bracket and empty into collection container.
  3. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  4. Remove clutch bellhousing access cap to expose system bleed screw.
    CAUTION
    Use care not to allow fluid to drain into clutch bellhousing. Excessive fluid will be agitated and sprayed around inside the clutch bellhousing by the rotating flywheel, contaminating the flywheel, disc, and pressure plate, resulting in poor clutch engagement.
  5. Using suitable socket/wrench, loosen bleed screw.


    Fig. Location of the bleed screw for the 2.4L engine
  6. Quickly attach hand operated bleed apparatus to bleed screw. Use care not to over-fill reservoir and spill fluid into engine compartment.
  7. Operate bleed gun sufficiently to expel air upward through circuit and out of master cylinder reservoir. Fill and empty reservoir three times.
  8. Remove bleed apparatus and tighten bleed screw to 62 inch lbs. (7 Nm). Do not over-tighten.
  9. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  10. Top off reservoir with fluid, then return the cap.
  11. Verify system operation. Actuate clutch pedal 50 times. If necessary, repeat procedure until road test confirms that shift issues no longer exist.

May 20, 2017 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

Toyota, Pickup, Base Model, 1991, 2.4L, 5 Speed Manual Transmission. I need to know if the cluch is hydrolic or not.


The easiest way to tell is to look in the engine compartment for a fluid reservoir. You will definitely see one for the brakes, and one for the power steering fluid. They will probably be labelled.

If you see a third small reservoir, smaller than these first 2, and you can follow a hydraulic line from the end of it to the area of the clutch housing, that is it. It will usually (but not always) be opposite the clutch pedal and a bit higher.

May 17, 2012 | 1991 Toyota Pickup

1 Answer

Clutch engages late (pedal almost all the way out) and car "shudders" in higher (3+) gears, almost like clutch is intermittently slipping. New slave cylinder, fluid is fine, clutch is strong...


The pressure plate is weak,and the disc is most likely warped ,or missing some clutch material .I would put a new clutch set in the transmission,you can purchase the clutch,throw out bearing and pilot shaft bushing?bearing with an alignment tool as a set.

Jan 13, 2011 | 1991 Toyota Corolla

1 Answer

You have to push clutch pedal within a half inch of floor before clutch will engage or disengage. used to be that pedal would only need to be pressed half way.


Check the fluid level in the reservoir below the brake booster,it's the clutch slave cylinder reservoir and it need to be full of d.o.t. 3 brake fluid.

Dec 19, 2009 | 2006 Hyundai Tiburon

1 Answer

2004 Honda Element...the clutch pedal engaging at 50%


Hi:
You could have a problem with your pressure plate, but you need to check out your clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder too. Check the clutch master cylinder fluid reservoir, and make sure it is full. It is located on the back wall of the engine compartment, approx right in front of your clutch pedal. If it is low, or you notice any fluid leakage, you need to address what caused that. You can bleed the system too, but that won't repair the problem.

Dec 10, 2009 | 2004 Honda Element

2 Answers

My 1991 Ford Ranger Clutch Problem.


get someone to push clutch down and check if arm moves.Clutch has nothing to do with the starting of the engine on a vehicle this ancient

Mar 31, 2009 | 1991 Ford Ranger Supercab

3 Answers

Clutch pedal sometimes engages when near floor


Check fluid level on clutch reservoir. Check also for any leaks at the clutch clyinders and lines. if it is low on fluid, or you have to drain fluid, remember to bleed the clutch.Have somebody pump the clutch and turn the clutch bleeding screw until only fluid comes out.

Feb 28, 2009 | 2005 Toyota Corolla

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