NO TROUBLE STARTING FOR PASS YEAR...VEHICLE WOULD NOT CRANK UNTIL I JUMPERED START RELAY AFTER TRYING NEW BATTERY...SUSPECT GROUND ON FUEL PUMP IS INHIBITED AS WELL AS START RELAY DUE TO NOTE IN OWNERS MANUAL THAT SAYS TAKE VEHICLE TO CERTIFIED SERVICE CENTER OR MECHANIC IF THEFT LED DISPLAY KEEPS FLASHING..SO I SUSPECT THAT ANTITHEFT SYSTEM WAS TRIGGERED WHEN ORIGINAL BATTERY FAILED OR WHEN IT WAS REMOVED...CAN YOU HELP..MY E/MAIL ADDRESS IS LOUIS.BASS@BESTBUY.COM THANKS FOR ANY INPUT
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Don't think fuse , maybe starter relay in underhood fuse box. Do you know what a relay is ? You should find a wiring diagram an see what all is involved in your vehicles starting system . Relay , park neutral safety switch , wiring , PCM - engine computer ,two power supply's ( B+).You can get free wiring diagram at www.bbbind.com , Then I suggest you go on youtube an check out some electrical trouble shooting videos , an no crank - no start videos as well . Rather then going at this blind.
First get safety glasses,put vehicle in park,set parking brake.,BLOCK WHEELS....Disconnect negative battery cable for 10 seconds to reset computer system....reconnect cable..make sure all fuses/relays are operable..make sure it has fuel in tank...Turn ignition and listen for fuel pump to engage..If all works well try to start it...If not..get a long..2 or 3 foot jumper cable to by-pass ignition system..have a helper to turn ignition switch on but do not try to start it..Be safe..get under vehicle..,attach jumper wire to hot post at starter and small S-wire at top of starter solenoid..make sure alligator clips are tight...As soon as you touch them it should crank....If it does the problem is in ignition system.....YOU HAVE TO STAY CLEAR OF FAN AND ALL MOVING BELTS AND COMPONENTS WHILE UNDER VEHICLE !!!.......If no luck write me back.....BROOKS....
and transmission in this cars drive train are fully
electronically controlled by a computer called the PCM (Power Train
Control Module). Whenever a problem like this occurs the computer
stores a record of the problem (there are of course some exceptions
to this, like the fuel pump, engine coolant temperature sensor and
MAF sensor for instance) in the form of a fault code in its memory,
to read these fault codes you must have the systems memory scanned
with a special tool. Once the fault code(s) are read you then must
perform the appropriate diagnostic testing to find and resolve the
problem(s) DO NOT REPLACE ANY PARTS UNTIL A TRAINED TECHNICAIN
HAS DIAGNOSED THE PROBLEM TO AVOID SPEDING YOUR HARD EARNED MONEY ON
PARTS THAT MAY NOT CORRECT THE PROBLEM
There are several possible issues depending on what you have happening such as - is it cranking over or not. Ford used their wonderful passive security systems on these years of vehicles which can be a real pain. If you use a test light and are getting power to the starter switch (small wire on starter solenoid) when friend turns key to start but it is still not turning over then starter is not functioning. If your interior lights and dash lights all work when key is turned to on but everything goes off when you turn key to "start" position try cleaning battery terminals. If terminals clean or even better if terminals clean and you jump with jump box or jumper cables and it still not cranking check with test light as mentioned above and if no power to start switch check relay in underhood fuse box. Swap the "starter" one with one from fan or other of same size and see if starter will now turn. If you can turn the key on and hear the fuel pump turn on (buzz or whine from rear) and the engine cranks over trying to start but will not - it may be the passive security system. The chip in key or the reader for it may have died. Each key is $75+ and if you do not have two good keys they (Ford Dealer) will charge you for making two keys and activation fees - Total $300 - plus getting the vehicle towed in. The vehicles computer tests many sensors before letting vehicle actually start so it is normal for it to crank for a few seconds before it actually fires. If it senses something wrong in that first few turns like no crank or cam sensor reading it will not allow vehicle to start. You can read codes with a code reader for this by testing with key on and not running.
It woild be better to just to buy a new pump, from your vehicle sitting for three years the gas inside the pump became gummy and has a build up of varnish.
it would be more time and cost effective to just buy new one and be done with it.
sound like either leaking injector or failing fuel pump/check valve
cannot diagnose with a scan tool because you need to run a power balance test
however, being that the vehicle is 8 years old, I'd shoot for the pump first.
to confirm leak down you will need a fuel pressure tester installed before you shut the vehicle down, then wait a few hours and check fuel pressure before turning the key on. fuel pressure should be withing a few psi of what it was when you parked the vehicle
possible fuel pump. Try spraying starting fluid into breather while someone is cranking engine. if vehicle tries to run it is fuel problem. If not it could be an electrical componet overheating and cooling and restarting. Coils, relays, ecm.
the wiring connection from the relay or the relay itself might be the problem. locate the relay and turn the key start it then if you hear a click sound on the relay meaning its functioning, but the contact from batt to starter may be damaged.try to jumper it.