Question about 2001 Ford Focus
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Replacing front wheel bearings
It isn't a particularly hard job but there are a few techniques that you need to know.
I wouldn't recommend you do it yourself but I would recommend you do it under supervision of someone who knows their stuff.
Retensioning the bearings correctly is extremely important.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
No you have overheated it ,for what ever the reason ,when it cools down oil pressure should be alright again but iam afraid you have bought someones elses bucket of you know what .If oil light doesnt go out then it wants either a new switch or someone put STP oil thickener in it to flog it ,take it back and get your cash back,Dont forget to have your base ball bat tucked into coat .
Posted on Dec 19, 2009
SOURCE: I have a Ford Escort
The PO 304 ---is a misfire code for cyl #3, just a code
The PO 353 --- is a misfire code for cyl#3 that refers you
to PO 350 which is an undetermined Primary or Secondary
Malfunction You can not have 300 & 350 codes on the same vehicle
The PO171 -is a Lean O2 Code for Bank 1 most likely from
a misfire yet to be determined
The PO 1131 ---Lack of Switching ,lean trying to correct
for over rich condition
Personally I think anyone that uses 10 oz of anything,
in an 16 to 18 gallon fuel tank is wasting their money
There has never been any mfg recommend injector cleaner
In a ford they say not to use it,as it will damage the pintel coating,
which I doubt,still useless product
Did you clean the MAF Sensor
Continue to check for leaks,including
the EVAP System Hoses & Components
I would scope the O2 Sensors,you won't have
a scope & I don't care for a meter, as you don't
see the switching counts or time if they are old & slow
At 100,000 miles, change the ones closest to the engine
For a 40 mph issue under the slightest of vacuum load
check the Egr Valve,unplug hoses,plug them & road test
Do all your egr & coil testing on a hot day & up hills,
easy on the gas to load the engine some
The misfire codes you get on a ford are only correct about
2/3 of the time & you disregard almost all the misfire ones
You may have to walk 1 new coil until you get to the bad one
Your real issue is the idle problem
Check all vacuum items
Be nice if you could Smoke Test everything
& end that exercise
Check the cam timing before you spend days
going into the belt area
You could use a scanner to look at data,don't know if
you know anyone with one at work
Posted on Jun 17, 2011
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