Question about 1986 Chevrolet Celebrity

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I have 86 celibrity, electric fan will not work. if i take test light and check where the relay switch is, red wire hot and light comes on, if i turn on ing. switch and take test light to green wire (2nd wire in relay) light will come on. still with switch on, if i take test light and place on 3rd wire, the fan will come on and run fine, do i have a short in wiring or could fan switch be bad? if so where would it be located?

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  • Chevrolet Master
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What your doing when you touch the test light to that 3rd wire is actually closing the circuit and powering the fan, like the temperature controlled switch should be doing once the engine warms. That sending unit would be screwed into the cooling system where the water can touch it and most likely is in the radiator lower tank or bottom of radiator side tank. Find that sensor and test the wires for power when engine is hot and fan should be on. You could put a toggle switch on it to activate the fan until you get the proper sending unit/sensor.

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SOURCE: Electric Radiator Fan Does Not Come On

DTC P0480 - COOLING FAN CIRCUIT

Circuit Description

The cooling fan is controlled by PCM through the fan relay based on inputs from ECT sensor, IAT sensor, A/C selector switch, A/C refrigerant pressure switch and vehicle speed sensor. PCM controls cooling fan by grounding cooling fan control circuit which turns on cooling fan relay.

The fan relay will be commanded on when ECT reaches 223°F (106°C) or greater, A/C is requested or vehicle speed is less than 38 MPH. Cooling fan relay will also be commanded on regardless of vehicle speed when a DTC is set requesting cooling fan to be on, ECT is 304°F (151°C) or greater, or A/C refrigerant pressure is high. Cooling fan may also be commanded on when engine is not running, on certain conditions.

Conditions for setting DTC:

Battery voltage greater than 9.5 volts.

Cooling fan fault line detects a malfunction for 6 seconds.

1. Check the cooling system. Ensure coolant level and belt tension are correct. Adjust/repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If no adjustment or repairs were required, go to next step.

2. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Using scan tool, check if cooling fan is operating with ECT at less than 209°F (98°C). If cooling fan is off, go to next step. If cooling fan is on, go to step 4).

3. Command cooling fan relay on. If cooling fan operates, go to step 23). If cooling fan does not operate, go to step 5).

4. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM harness connector. If cooling fan turns off, go to step 23). If cooling fan does not turn off, go to step 6).

5. Disconnect cooling fan relay harness connector. Using a test light connected to ground, probe battery feed circuits in relay harness connector. If test light illuminates on both terminals, go to step 7). If test light does not illuminate on both terminals, go to step .

6. Disconnect cooling fan relay harness connector. With test light connected to ground, probe battery feed circuit in relay harness connector. If test light illuminates, go to step 9). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 10).

7. Connect a jumper wire between cooling fan relay battery feed and cooling fan battery feed circuit. If cooling fan operates, go to step 11). If cooling fan does not operate, go to step 12).

8. Repair open in battery feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

9. Repair short to voltage in cooling fan battery feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

10. Connect test light battery voltage and probe cooling fan control circuit. If test light illuminates, go to step 13). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 21).

11. Connect test light to battery voltage and probe cooling fan control circuit. Using scan tool, command cooling fan on. If test light illuminates, go to step 14). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 15).

12. With jumper wire still connected, disconnect cooling fan harness connector. Using test light connected to ground, probe cooling fan battery feed circuit. If test light illuminates, go to step 16). If test light does not illuminate, go to step 17).

13. Repair short to ground in cooling fan control circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

14. Check terminals to cooling fan relay. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If terminals are okay, go to step 21).

15. Check cooling fan control circuit for open or poor connection. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If circuit or connection is okay, go to step 22).

16. Connect test light to battery voltage and probe cooling fan ground circuit. If test light illuminates, go to step 1. If test light does not illuminate, go to step 19).

17. Repair open or poor connection in cooling fan ignition feed circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

18. Check for poor connections at cooling fan harness connector. Repair as necessary. After repairs, go to step 23). If connections are okay, go to step 20).

19. Repair open or poor connection in cooling fan ground circuit. After repairs, go to step 23).

20. Replace cooling fan motor. After replacing cooling and motor, go step 23).

21. Replace cooling fan relay. After replacing relay, go to step 23).

22. Replace PCM. Program replacement PCM using required equipment. After replacing PCM, go to next step.

23. Turn ignition on, with engine off. Command cooling fan on. If cooling fan operates, system is okay. If cooling fan does not operate, repeat step 1).

Posted on May 16, 2010

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Rear wiper comes on all the time


Remove the rear wiper relay. The relay works just like a fuel pump relay or any other relay.
Here is example of your relay system and how to test it: Remove the relay and turn the ignition switch on and the rear wiper should not operate. If the motor works with the relay out then seek out a priest as the motor is haunted. To test the circuit do the following:
Bypass the relay with a piece of wire, (preferably fused). This means: Remove the relay and put the piece of wire in place of terminal 30 and 87 in the cavity where the relay lives. Even if you don't use a fuse all you are doing is giving the wiper motor the same voltage it would be getting if the relay was closed. All electrical diagnoses should come from the relay. It gives you the input and output for the accessory. The input is 12v hot on terminal 30. This usually this is constant hot wire from the main buss line on the fuse box. The 87 terminal goes to the fan itself so that the output of this terminal will be a grounded motor waiting for voltage. The 86 wire on this relay is normally fed through the fuse box via the appropriate fuse and gets voltage when the ignition is turned on. The 85 terminal on the relay is the field ground and energizes the relay. This wire comes from the switch. When the rear wiper switch is turned on it sends ground the relay terminal 85 which closes the points of the relay and allow power to travel from the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal. This gives power from the 30 terminal to the appliance at the other end of the 87 terminal. The grounded rear window motor receives this power, begins to spin and operate the wiper. By the way relays have a failure rate of about .015% so the problem probably isn't the relay itself.Joe
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Bypass the relay with a piece of wire, (preferably fused). This means: Remove the relay and put the piece of wire in place of terminal 30 and 87 in the cavity where the relay lives. Even if you don't use a fuse all you are doing is giving the fan the same voltage it would be getting if the relay was closed. If the fan doesn't come on then leave the jumper wire in place and smack the fan motor with something like a screwdriver handle or small hammer with the voltage applied and see if that makes the fan come on. (Stuck fan- replace fan). All electrical diagnoses should come from the relay. It gives you the input and output for the fan. The input is 12v hot on terminal 30. This usually this is constant hot wire from the main buss line on the fuse box. The 87 terminal goes to the fan itself so that the output of this terminal will be a grounded motor waiting for voltage. The 86 wire on this relay is normally fed through the fuse box via the fuel pump fuse and gets voltage when the ignition is turned on. The 85 terminal on the relay is the field ground and energizes the relay. This wire comes from the switch which in this case is the computer or ECM. When the engine gets hot the coolant temperature swich sends a signal to the ECM to ground the relay terminal 85 which colses the points of the relay and allow power to travel from the 30 terminal to the 87 terminal. this gives power from the 30 terminal to the fan at the other end of the 87 terminal. the grounded fan receives this power, begins to spin and cool the engine. By the way relays have a failure rate of about .015% so the problem probably isn't the relay itself. Joe
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