Question about 1986 Toyota 4Runner
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
seems like air in system problem, park the car such that the radiator is the highest point of the car, can also use jacks, put the heater in the car on, run the car with radiator cap open til theres hot air coming throung the heater,make sure radiator is full.
Posted on Aug 03, 2008
SOURCE: running hot
Sounds like Clutch in your fan
The coolant level is right on, no hoses are leaking and the accessory belt is intact. You start the engine, let it idle and make a visual inspection. There's no sign of belt slippage.
If your car is like most, the cooling fan is mounted to its drive pulley via a clutch. Clutch fans operate at different speeds under different conditions to help reduce drain on the engine and to save fuel. When the engine is hot, the clutch fan runs nearly as fast as the engine. When the engine is cold, the fan runs much more slowly.
The fan clutch operation is regulated by a valve that is opened and closed by a thermostatic spring. The valve controls the flow of a viscous silicone fluid between chambers in the clutch assembly. When the engine is cold, the clutch is essentially disengaged, which is why the fan runs at its slowest compared to the engine's speed. As the engine warms up, the air flowing to the fan assembly becomes hotter. The hotter air causes the thermostatic spring to unwind and open the valve. Silicone fluid from the reservoir chamber flows into the main chamber, engaging the clutch, and the fan spins faster (though it's still slightly slower than the engine.
Hope this helps!
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
Why was radiator replaced?Did it have heat before ? If it was plugged, the heater core may also be plugged. Try flushing it with a water hose in both directions. I dont know why the botton radiator hose would be cold, the radiator should be a uniform temp and the air coming through the radiator should be HOT, when the engine is at operating temp. What condition was the old coolant? if it was rusty, the water pump may have lower flow than normal.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
When the car is completely cool,check the electric fan(s) for smooth rotation.
Clean/check/change the thermo sensor,contact and wire.
Excavate air pocket in coolant system / check for head gasket leak
This test will kill two birds with one stone.
MAKE SURE THE COOLANT SYSTEM and ENGINE IS COLD!
RAN THIS TEST IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA ONLY!
You will spill some coolant during this air pocket purge test.......BE KIND TO THE ENVIRONMENT and ANIMAL please clean up after the test!
Put the front end on a pair of ramp or park your car on a VERY STEEP HILL (radiator facing top of the hill) .
Top of the coolant reserve tank
Let it ran for 10-15 minutes.
Monitor for air pockets escaping from coolant reserve tank.
Small amount of bubbles is OK at 1-5 minute mark
After the thermostat open up (after 195 F warm up) at
5-12 minute mark or after high idle you should see less bubbles.
If you do not see any in rush of bubbles then your thermostat may be partially stuck or rusted badly inside the thermostat hosing.
Give the thermostat host few gentle taps.
If you see larger bubbles surfacing after 15 minutes then should do a hydrocarbon (HC) dye test to test for potential head gasket leak.
Let engine cold down and top off coolant reserve tank.
Start monitor for coolant lost
A coolant flush is require every 2 years or 24,000 miles.
I recommend the thermostat that has a relief pop-let to reduce the change of burst radiator and coolant hoses.
Make sure you get a new thermostat gasket,black RTV and fresh coolant for the job.
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Posted on Dec 05, 2009
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