Question about 2007 Chrysler 300c AWD Sedan New Cars
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I would like to clarify, and somewhat solve this issue. First of all the dealer is right about the regen. If the truck is going into regen and did not finish, then it will do the regen again and again and this excessive regen will cause fuel in the oil. Unfortunatly Ford did not add a parked Regen switch (too complicated for some users) so you will have to drive untill the regen light goes out. I know it's inconventant but that's part of the hassel you need to go through because Al Gore invented the internet and then warned us all about global warming. Anyway there are some other causes including porous cylander heads (this will show up in low mileage vehicles only), HP Fuel pumps, fuel sensors, injectors, lines, etc. etc. Since you both seem to have low mileage ask the Ford Dealer about the porous cyl heads and watch his face go blank. Is smoke comes out of his ears make sure his DPF isn't clogged and ask him if he needs to Regen. then tell him he has to run 30 mintues weither he likes it or not or he will get fuel in his oil. By the way you may also need to ask about an updated ECM reflash which could help this issue. Have a nice day.
Posted on Apr 22, 2009
simple : obtain replacement pump from parts provider (no used stuff)
Now help me out here: thats the year they were bolted to the pass side front of engine
and not inside the tank right? (better go look to see for sure)
using a tube wrench unscrew the fuel lines (i use large wire nuts to temp block off fuel leakage)
with a 12 mm wrench undo the two side bolts holding the pump to block
wiggle pump it should come straight off
clean mounting place on block with solvent let dry
silicone back (or use gasket that comes with pump ) of pump
apply pump to block (depending on where crank stopped you may have some tension on arm you will have to overcome to get flange to meet block )
use locktite (blue)or simmiliar thread lock on bolts retighten firmly but not hang up the dog tight
use light grease or vasolene on tube connections don't try to tighten dry
Now the fun part your diesel now has air in the fuel system
there are two ways to remove this ( hard and harder)
your choice here are both methods
loosten the fuel supply line for #8 injector ( I did not say remove) 1 full turn ought to be enough
crank engine 30 seconds only
wait 5 minutes for starter to cool down
crank engine 30 sec again
did it start but runs rough while it's still running tighten #8 injector (caution fuel under high pressure)
engine smooth out good your lucky
engine did not start yet
wait 5 minutes
crank engine 30 sec again
if so tighten #8 injector up
Now here's something I've done to my diesel to make this much less a hasstle
trace fuel line as it comes up from pump
obtain a small low pressure electric fuel pump and a two short pieces of fuel line
and a few clamps
use tube cutter and cut fuel line just before it bends to go in filter
slide tube and clamps over pipe (both sides)
insert pump observe flow arrrow towards filter
the wires of pump can be stretched over to #1 battery terminals
now any time you change a filter or open your fuel system for any reason
all you need do is connect pump to battery
open sharader valve on top of filter for a few min
and start truck as normal
then disconnect wires and stow away for another day
Posted on Jul 08, 2009
SOURCE: 2006 Chrysler 300, no start
It is all about troubleshooting. Possible causes are a dead battery. Did someone try to steal it and cut the wrong wires underneath?
The starter solenoid could be bad.
If the headlights stay bright when you try to start the car then it is not the battery. if you hear clicking and the headlights are very dim then it is likely to be the battery. If you have full battery with good cable connections and you get very active clicking but no starts then the solenoid on the starter has burned contacts. if battery is good but no clicking when trying to start then the problem is in the key area or alarm system.
All the areas mentioned above are place to start and troubleshooting steps.
Posted on Mar 09, 2010
Testimonial: "Thanks for the input, I'll go through the systems individually and see what I come up with Thanks again, A"
This is quite a process....
1) Disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable.
2) Remove the rear shelf trim panel.
3) Disconnect the CHMSL electrical connector (1).
4) Remove the two mounting fasteners (3) to the CHMSL (2).
Installation is opposite of removal.
Rear shelf trim panel
1) Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.
2) Remover the right and left lower and upper C-pillar trim.
3) Remove the nut that secures the center rear seat belt lower anchor to the stud on the floor panel and feed the seat belt webbing back through the opening in the top of the rear shelf panel trim (2) to the retractor.
4) Remove the push-pin fastener (1) that secures the trim (2) to the rear shelf panel.
5) Slide the trim forward to disengage the S-clip that secures the underside of the trim to the to the center of the shelf panel.
6) Remove the trim from the rear shelf panel.
1) Position the trim (2) onto the rear shelf panel(3).
2) Slide the rear edge of the trim rearward to engage the lens bezel of the center high-mounted stop lamp and far enough to engage the S-clip that secures the underside of the trim to the center of the shelf panel.
3) Install the push-pin fastener (1) that secures the trim to the rear shelf panel.
4) Pull the center rear seat belt lower anchor and belt webbing from the retractor through the opening the the top of the rear shelf panel trim and back down to the stud on the floor panel.
5) Install and tighten the nut that secures the seat belt lower anchor to the stud on the floor panel. Tighten the nut to 34 N m (25 ft. lbs.).
6) Reinstall the right and left upper and lower C-pillar trim.
7) Connect the battery negative cable.
C-pillar trim removal
Hope this all gets it done for you........
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
The re-fill kit for the r-134 will only fit on one of the sides. You want to fill the low pressure side, but be sure you have a gauge not to overfill. he high pressure will be the larger side. But the gauge will only fit on one of the inlets for safety precautions.
Posted on Jun 07, 2010
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