Question about 1985 Chevrolet Camaro

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Rear disc brakes will not stop the rollers for an emissions. have done a rear brake job with new calipers. my brake pedal is high and fills good.

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Most likely problem would be a faulty proporsioning valve that will not allow proper flow to rear brakes or a partially restricted flex hose at the rear differential

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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How to install rear brake calipers on 79 pontiac firebird


Hello Allan,

Follow the link for the instructions your need to replace your rear brake calipers:



Repair Guides Front Disc Brakes Brake Caliper AutoZone com

Jul 27, 2016 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have replaced 3 disc brake calipers on my 2001 pt cruiser. after bleeding all 4 brakes 3 times, I started the car and brake pedal goes to floor. is my brake booster shot?


Michael:

You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.

Jan 24, 2016 | 2001 Chrysler PT Cruiser

1 Answer

How do i replace rear brake pads off a 1995 ford contour


Check this REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
(see Figures 1, 2 and 3 / click over images for zoom )

CAUTION Older brake pads or shoes may contain asbestos, which has been determined to be cancer causing agent. Never clean the brake surfaces with compressed air! Avoid inhaling any dust from any brake surface! When cleaning brake surfaces, use a commercially available brake cleaning fluid.
  1. Remove 1 / 2 of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  3. Remove the wheels.
  4. Remove the cotter pin and guide pin.
zjlimited_1153.jpg

Fig. 1: Rear disc brake components

  1. Remove the caliper locating pin cover and remove the locating pin.
  2. Swing the rear disc brake caliper away from the brake rotor and anchor plate. There is no need to remove the parking brake cable or brake hose.
  3. Remove the inner and outer disc brake pads.
To install:
  1. If installing new disc brake pads, use rear caliper piston adjuster T87P-2588-A or similar tool, to rotate the rear disc brake piston clockwise, retracting the caliper piston. This will allow room for the new brake pads.
zjlimited_1154.jpg

Fig. 2: Removing the parking brake cable

zjlimited_1155.jpg

Fig. 3: Use the adjuster tool to rotate the piston into the caliper

  1. Install the inner and outer disc brake pads.
  2. Swing the rear disc brake caliper back into position over the disc brake pads.
  3. Clean the locating pin threads and apply 1 drop of a thread locking agent or similar sealer.
  4. Apply a small amount of disc brake caliper slide grease to the shaft of the locating pin.
  5. Reinstall the locating pin and torque to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
  6. Reinstall the guide pin and the cotter pin.
  7. Adjust the parking brake by operating the parking brake control several times.
  8. Reinstall the wheel and tire assembly. Torque the lug nuts to 62 ft. lbs. (85 Nm).
  9. Lower the vehicle.
  10. Adjust the parking brake by operating the parking brake control several times.
  11. Pump the brake pedal several times to achieve a good pedal before attempting to move the vehicle.
  12. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder fluid reservoir and add fluid as necessary.
  13. Road test the vehicle and check for proper brake system operation.

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).

May 01, 2011 | 1995 Ford Contour

2 Answers

1994 dodge 2500 diesel. Put remanfactored calipers and new hoses on the front of this truck. Now I have a soft pedal that if held fades to the floor. Thought the master cyl must have a leak in it. Replaced...


Hi,
sound as if you really do have a problem!
From your description I presume that you are confident in doing your own work?
The quickest way to check your system is to use brake hose clamps to isolate each section of the braking system. I would suggest that you rent or buy a set of the clamps.

Put the truck on axle stands and make sure it's safely secured. ]
If possible have an assistant to sit in the cab and depress the brake pedal on your instructions.
Place a brake hose clamp on both front brake hoses and the rear axle hose.
Depress the brake pedal firmly.
The pedal should have minimum movement, and be rock-solid and you should not be able to depress it further.
If the pedal does go down when you apply it, the likely reason is that the Brake Master Cyl is by-passing internally, ie, only one section is active.

You stated that the M/C had been replaced. so we shall presume that the brake pedal is rock hard.
Go to the rear brake hose clamp and release it. Instruct your assistant to depress the brake pedal. If the brake pedal moves a significant distance, then (a) your rear brake shoes require adjustment (b) rhere is a leaking brake cyl, (check for brake fluid in the drum) or (c) you have a "lazy' or a piston (s) which have siezed during a brake actuation. That problem will require removing the rear brake drums for further inspection. Not the problem? Then adjust the rear brakes if required, then depress the brake pedal again. The downward travel should now be noticeably reduced.

If all is well at the rear brakes. refit the brake hose clamp. Go to the passengers side front brake and have your assistant apply the footbrake. Pedal rockhard/minimun movement? Release the brake hose clamp whilst your assist has pressure on the pedal. spin the front wheel by hand, and note if (a) the brake pedal has excessive downward travel. (b) the brake pads are contacting the brake disc, (the wheel will cease rotating and you will hear the pads contact the disc.)

Pedal displays limited downward travel and pads contact disc? Refit the brake hose clamp and go to drivers side brake and follow the same procedure. If the pedal has excessive downward travel then you have found your inital problem.

If releasing both front brake hose clamps results in excessive brake pedal travel, then the problem will be easier to address if you deal with one side first, complete the resolution, test by using the brake hose clamps, then start / complete the other faulty brake.

Whichever side you start to work on, be methodical, boring as it sounds.
remove the road wheel, but before doing so, place a hand on the top and bottom of the tyre and rock the wheel away from you and check the bearing play. If memory serves me correctly, that year Dodge has the discs in one piece with the hub.

You have removed the wheel. Now, have your assistant turn the steering onto full right lock. Before continuing, I would like to remind you that the vehicle is up on axle stands and you have secured it safely, in order to conform with accepted safety parameters, correct?

The steering is now on full right lock and you can see both disc pads. Now, very carefully check the position of the caliper in relation to the disc pads. Is there and equal spacing on each side? Now, have your assistant release the brake pedal and very carefully observe the travel of the disc pad pistons. They should retract and the hub should turn freely by hand. A very light drag is allowed between disc pad and disc, but it should NOT be discernible when you rotate the hub by hand.

With no pressure on the brake pedal, and using an appropriate tool, attempt to have the caliper pistons retract into their cylinders / bores. Completed? Use caution as it is very easy to break / damage a disc by using undue force when retracting the pistons.

There is now an obvious gap between disc pads and disc (or rotor..sorry) Now, carefully check that the pad guide pins are not deformed and that the pads ride easily on them. if a pad jams when the brakes are applied, then, when the piston retracts, when force is removed from the brake pedal. There is an appreciable gap to close, upon the next application of the brakes!

Some types of disc pad retaining /guide pins are a tight fit, and it is very easy to tilt a pad when fitting the pins, causing the disc pad to fail to retract fully, and again, displayed by a brake pedal with excessive travel.

When the brake pedal is applied, the brake fluid has to fill the caliper piston bores, then exert pressure on the piston to force it against the disc pads, and they in turn are forced into contact with the disc. If the piston has to move an appreciable distance before contacting the disc pad, that takes more brake fluid to fill the bore of the piston, and the master cylinder piston has to travel further,resulting in a brake pedal that displays excessive travel .

I notice that you did not mention the type of effort or number of applications of the brake pedal which resulted in a firm pedal.

If you fitted replacement calipers, can I presume that you fitted new guide pins to the calipers?
Last but not least, (a) are they the correct calipers for the vehicle as regards piston bore size? The brake Master cyl will not be able to fill the bores of the calipers with enough fluid to drive the pistons out to apply the disc pads, if the bores are oversized. The pedal will also display excessive travel.
(b) If the brake master cyl is overfilled, when the brakes are applied, the master cyl will force fluid to the calipers, expand the caliper pistons, but will be unable to release the application to the pistons due to the fluid being unable to return to the master cyl as the allotted reservoir space has been filled with static fluid. When the brake pedal is depressed again, the Master cyl cannot service the caliper pistons on the first stroke as the pistons are locked at full stroke / travel in the bores, resulting in the brake pedal going to the floor, or giving that impression.
HOWEVER, that condition, if the vehicle is driven any distance, will result in the obvious odor of overheated disc brake pads, and the vehicle struggling to display any state of acceleration.
(c) Are they in fact the correct disc brake pads? It would be wise to remove a guide / retainer pin and check for free movement of the pad on the remaining pin. All ok, then refit the pin which you removed and test again. The pads have to be free to move on the pins, and thus align themselves with the face of the disc / rotor when the brakes are applied. Some people coat the pins with never-seeze or hi-temp grease when fitting them, others prefer them to be dry.

In closing, I would recommend that you check the full travel AND RETRACTION of the caliper pistons in their respective bores. It is not unknown for re-built / new parts to be defective.

It would be interesting to hear if any of the above proved to be beneficial in resolving your problem.

Jan 27, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Ram

2 Answers

How to change brake pad and check rotors


Brake Pads Removal & Installation Front for_car_toy_cam_02-04_sst_frt_dsc_asm.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the front wheels. toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  3. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  4. Remove the 2 anti-squeal shims from each of the 2 brake pads.
  5. Remove the wear indicator from each of the 2 brake pads.
To Install:
NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced together with the pads.
toy_car_cam_frontbrakepads.gif

  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press piston into the caliper.
  2. Apply disc brake grease to the inside of each anti-squeal shim.
  3. Install the anti-squeal shims on each pad.
  4. Install the pad wear indicator clip to the pads.
  5. Install the pads with the pad wear indicator plate facing upward.
  6. Install the brake caliper with the 2 mounting bolts. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  7. Install the front wheels.
  8. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  9. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
Rear TMC made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmcrearbrakes.gif

TMMK made rear brake components toy_car_cam_tmmkrearbrakes.gif

To Remove:
  1. Drain the brake fluid to ½ full level in reservoir.
  2. Remove the rear wheels.
  3. Remove the caliper slide pins.
  4. Remove the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  5. Remove the rear brake calipers.
  6. Remove the 2 brake pads with the anti-squeal shims.
  7. Remove the anti-squeal shims and pad wear indicators from brake pads.
To Install:
  1. Using a large C clamp or equivalent press the piston into the caliper.
  2. Coat both sides of the outer anti-squeal shim with pad grease.
  3. Install anti-squeal shims to each pad.
  4. Install wear indicators on the 2 brake pads.
  5. Install the caliper slide pin bushings (TMMK made) (Kentucky).
  6. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  7. Fill the master cylinder with new clean brake fluid.
  8. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  9. Install the rear wheels.
prev.gif next.gif Brake Rotor Removal & Installation Front To Remove:
  1. Remove the front wheels.
  2. Remove the front brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the front brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the front wheel disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the front disc.
  2. Install the brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bolts 79 ft-lb (107 Nm).
  3. Install the brake caliper. Torque the bolts 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the front wheel.
Rear To Remove:
  1. Remove the rear wheels.
  2. Remove the brake caliper assembly.
  3. Remove the brake pads.
  4. Remove the 2 bolts and the caliper mounting bracket.
  5. Place match marks on the disc and axle hub.
  6. Remove the rear disc.
To Install:
  1. Align the match marks and install the rear disc.
  2. Install the rear brake caliper mounting bracket. Torque the bracket bolts as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the bracket bolt 46 ft-lb (61.8 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the bracket bolt 34 ft-lb (47 Nm)
  3. Install the rear brake caliper with the slide pins. Torque the slide pins as follows:
    • TMC made (Japan): Torque the caliper slide pin 25 ft-lb (34.3 Nm)
    • TMMK made (Kentucky): Torque the caliper slide pin 32 ft-lb (43 Nm)
  4. Install new gaskets and connect the brake hose to the caliper with the banjo fitting bolt. Torque the fitting bolt 22 ft-lb (29.4 Nm).
  5. Fill the reservoir with brake fluid.
  6. Bleed the brake system.
  7. Install the rear wheel
prev.gif next.gif

Jan 25, 2011 | 2007 Toyota Camry

1 Answer

How to slacken rear brake shoes to replase disc


Hi Ricky

Your car has disc brakes so you need to release the brake pads not shoes (they are for drum brakes). That should help when you buy a new set.

Loosen the split pins which hold the pads in the caliper. You should then be able to push the pads out. It sounds like the pads are worn down so much that the caliper pistons are at their full reach.

Once you have slid them out, you need a piston retractor tool to push the pistons back in the caliper in order to be able to fit the new pads.

SLide the pads in, use copper grease on the back surface to stop them squeaking. Once done, pump the brake pedal to set the pads and the job is finished.

Aug 21, 2010 | 1994 Saab 900

1 Answer

Replace rear brake pads


Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
rear_brake_pads.jpg Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_2.jpg To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
rear_brake_pads_3.jpg After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
rear_brake_pads_4.jpg With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor.jpg Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
rear_brake_rotor_2.jpg Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brakes_7.jpg Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
rear_brake_rotor_3.jpg After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
rear_brake_rotor_4.jpg Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

Jun 01, 2010 | 1995 Saab 900

1 Answer

My chevy lumina and when you go down the road the brakes start to rub and can smell them burning pressure builds up in the brakes the more you drive


Sounds like a typical frozen brake caliper situation.
First thing to do is not drive this car any further as you may have severe problems on the road, using either a car lift or a floor jack and safety jack supports, locate by eye and/or by smell which wheel is burning and smoking,example: If the passenger front brake is the one at fault, you will need to replace "both front brake pads, possibly both front disc brake rotors and if the disc brake caliper has a frozen piston on the right front, both front disc brake calipers(which can be simply determined by trying to squeeze the piston back with a large clamp or special tool that is made specifically for this and is easily obtained and easy to use from any parts store(Auto Zone or the like ) may even lend you some of the tools you need if you buy the parts from them...how cool is that?
If the caliper piston won't press back into its bore, it needs to be replaced and always replace both calipers not one side, the same with replacing the brake pads, example: right front caliper and brake pads are defective, replace also the left front caliper and pads as well, to allow for a proper stopping action, be sure to replace the disc brake rotors when changing brake pads as well.
Also while inspecting the vehicles brake system check the brake hoses(Heavy rubber lines that connect from a metal brake connector to the back side of your brake caliper, each wheels brake caliper or (wheel cylinder,used on the older drum brake systems) has a brake hose) look for cracks and leaks in the hoses, replace as needed.
Be certain to also check all four wheel disc brakes for signs of wear, if the brake pad (asbestos material mounted on the metal brake pad backing plate, known as the "web") looks about the thickness of the metal "web" or thinner, replace the disc pads and or drum brake pads along with the rotors(dish looking object that disc brake pads actually squeeze against to stop the car).

BLEEDING or PURGING AIR FROM THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM:

The bleeding or purging of air from the hydraulic system in any brake system requires quite a bit of knowledge and patience, however, and if purging is needed ,two persons to do the job correctly.
First be certain the vehicle is jacked off the ground and secured on jack stands, start bleeding the furthest away brake from the master cylinder which is located under the hood on the drivers side firewall and be sure you have filled the master cylinder up with the proper recommended DOT (probably DOT lll or lV) brake fluid. Put the cover on the master cylinder once you have it filled and be aware to check the fluid level after each bleeding is done.
Step1:
After all your brake replacement work is done, fill master Cyl. and secure it's cover, be sure car is safely secured with jack stands , starting with both rear brakes/wheels off the ground(furthest from master cyl) have second person pumping(pushing the brake pedal up and down without letting off the pedal) this action forces any air in the hydraulic line to find its way out.
Pump pedal this way at least four to five pumps and hold the pedal down to the floor or as far as you can push it, don't let off the pedal, the person bleeding the passenger side rear disc brake caliper (furthest brake purge valve away from the master cylinder) will say "Ok, holld the pedal down", of course after he/she first told you to "Pump it up".
Step 2:
While the pedal is held tighly down the person bleeding will have located on the back of the disc brake caliper assembly a small(1/4 or 5/16 typical hex size) bleeder valve.
The valve must be opened with the proper size box wrench allowing the air to purge out(installing a small rubber hose on the end of the bleeder valve nipple approx. 1 1/2 ft. long and having it suspended and submerged into a clear plastic jar that is 3/4 full of new brake fluid in it) you will see and hear the air release and if using the jar system(I totally recommend) you will see the air bubbles escaping out of the submerged hose. Doing it this way also will not allow air to re enter the system if the person pumping the pedal should happen to release the pedal before you tell them to. Close the bleeder valve.
Step 3: Repeat the process on each wheel at least four times or until you see no visible signs of air coming out, remember, wrench and hose (secured tightly on bleeder valve nipple and submerged in fluid) "Pump it up,(3-4 pumps)" Hold it Down", open the bleeder valve and repeat this process until each wheel has clear fluid flowing out of the bleeder purge valves. Be certain all lines and valves are closed tight.
When the system is purged of all air, the pedal will be as good as the way it was when new, dont forget with all "Power" brake systems, the brake pedals will never be all the way up to the top when pressing the pedal down, it may also feel like it is low, but after a good road test you will see that the static feel of the pedal is not the same as the actual stopping feel of the pedal on the roadway driving.
The only time the feel of the brake pedal should be questioned is if it sinks to the floor, or if you can litterally pump the pedal up a few times and on the second or third static pump(static meaning the car is not moving) the pedal is actually getting higher off the floor, then you may have air still in the system.
If so repeat all the prceedures again being sure you have the master cylinder full of fluid before after and during the entire process.


This is a hard, dirty, and lengthy job, doing it yourself will save you hundreds of dollars, but if you do not work with safety being your primary concern, all the money saved is worthless.
Please be sure to wear the proper eye/hand protection, and wear a painters mask as well.
Happy Motoring!!

May 19, 2010 | 1998 Chevrolet Lumina

2 Answers

Bleeding abs brakes


Try using a pressure bleeder. It will force the air out. Works every time.

Nov 08, 2008 | 2001 Ford Mustang

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