Question about 2006 Ford Escape
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: cruise control won't work
Does the on light in the dash come on? If not, you may have a broken switch in the steering wheel which is a fairly cheap repair. Otherwise, the controls work through the Printed Circuit Board in your dash (your instrument cluster) and the problem could be as simple as a solder defect or faulty component. The problem is that no Ford Service Technician that I know will touch this and tell you that you need to replace it.
The instrument cluster is very easy to replace but may cost you a few more dollars than you want to spend. I would have someone with an electrical background check the cruise control switches in your steering wheel with a multimeter before going any further with this. Also check the wiring for resistance leading from the switch to the cluster.
Posted on Aug 06, 2008
SOURCE: cruise control
ok, there are two issues. one could be a fuse that you can exchange out with a working one. secondly, this could be a sensor that is connected to the cruise control assembly under the hood. i would pop the hood to see if the cruse control assembly has became stuck or the cable may have been severed as well.
Posted on Mar 02, 2009
check for the presents of a switch on the tip of the master cylinder. these switches are problematic. if no switch on master cylinder, switch will be on brake pedal above brake switch, this switch is plastic and breaks very easy
Posted on Aug 15, 2009
SOURCE: cruise control will not engage
pull the plastic cover off the top of the engine and check where the cable from the cruise control connects by the throttle body. There is a plastic connector that might be broken. i had the same problem and a piece of tape fixed it for me but you can replace the part if your picky.
Posted on Sep 30, 2009
Did you have the recall done on it ?
recall 05S28. Description: Speed Control Deactivation Switch.
It could be a blow fuse in the recall harness, if you did have it done.
Try the self test, and see what the results are. If you do not get it into self test mode, it could be the fuse in teh recall harness that is blown. The 1st revision of the recall harness was an inline ATM fuse, not sure if the revision 2 was the same. If that fuse is blown, the switch is leaking, and should be checked.
This test is a key on engine off (KOEO) test only that is conducted in park only with emergency brake fully engaged.
1. Enter self-test diagnostics by depressing the speed control OFF switch while turning the ignition key ON, making sure the engine does not start and is not running. The speed control indicator on the instrument panel will flash once to indicate that speed control module entered the diagnostic mode. Five additional flashes at this point indicate a defective speed control servo. Release the OFF switch.
2. Press the remaining switches in this sequence: ON, RESUME, COAST and SET/ACCEL.
If the ON switch is not depressed within five seconds after entering the diagnostics mode, the module times out and the procedure must be started over.
The speed control indicator lamp will flash as each switch is depressed. Press each switch in the sequence immediately after the indicator light goes out for the previous switch.
There will be a slight delay when the last button is pressed and the lamp flashes.
3. A lamp flash with the last button (SET/ACCEL) indicates that the static test passed. If the lamp does not flash with the last button and there are no additional flashes of the lamp, the switch is defective.
If the lamp does not flash with the last button, and additional flashes occur, follow the chart below for trouble codes:
— 2 flashes - BPP defective, circuit is defective, brake applied, CPP switch or jumper (if equipped).
Posted on Feb 23, 2010
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