Question about 1992 Audi 80

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My vehicle is an Audi 80, 2.6E, 1995 model, has a problem o failing to restart after driving for some time, will have to keep cranking for close to 30min to 1hr before it can pick up. What could be the solution. Some mechanic suggested fuel pump that has not helped after pump was replaced. Other mechanic suggested crank position sensor but today other mechanic says the sensor is ok it should be some overheating and has noted some leak on radiator. Ofcourse the tempearture has been rising to about 100 C just after short drive, could that cause the vehicle to fail to restart Regards MC

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: 2004 Audi A4 3L won't start

the problem is not the relay switch the problem to me sounds like the fuel filter needs to be replaced so i wouldnt be messing with the relay switch because the relay switch would be harder to replace.

Posted on Aug 19, 2008

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SOURCE: 1998 Audi A4 1.8T fuel pump does not turn on

if you have diagnostic equipment you will be able to see the signal through serial data(if you believe it)the cranksensor is located near the rear of the engine pointing towards the radiator i think it goes to a grey plug....

Posted on Jan 05, 2009

bunnydawg
  • 5158 Answers

SOURCE: help my audi is jerking

the best i can find from the information i have is it's near the tank (not all that great information) be that as it may i would suggest it is likely a problem with the coil pack or you have water in your fuel. you haven't mentioned how it idles. to test the pack... just unplug one spark plug wire at a time ... if the engine idle doesn't change you have likely located the problem... if it is indeed water in your fuel... add a couple bottles of gas line antifreeze to your tank.... it contains alcohol and will **** up the water.

Robert

Please take a moment to rate this solution.. thanks

Posted on Feb 05, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1995 AUDI 90 CS - Hard to start... spark & fuel OK

Have you tried replacing the starter? I know starters can go bad if the car is not started or run for a long time.

I am getting the same car, with the same issue.. it sat for 2 yrs and won't start.

My mechanic told me it is probably a starter.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Have a 1986 Audi 5000 CS Quatro that will crank but not start..

I have repaired this problem several times.Excessive resistance in the ignition wire connectors can cause this condition. Easy cure, high resistance plug wires. I know it can't be that easy, but it is! Audi had recall rearding this problem. If you are haveing other problems, go to all data online and look at the technitions help tips. There an ancer for almost everything. Hope this helps. uphold1333@gmail.com

Posted on Apr 30, 2009

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2001 audi i check engine light on all cyliners misfiring. cold it be a basic tune up 119 798 miles


My first response is NO.. I am guessing that your motor isnt running at all. It would help to have more details.. engine size? error codes? actual symptoms noticed? any work done? last oil change? your personal mechanical talents rated from 1 - 10?...

ok.. best guess from little info. I am guesing from my experiences that your motor has a timing issue. whether you have a inline 4, V 6 or V8.. you have one,two or two timing chain tensioners inside your motor each chain tensioner keeps the intake and exhaust manifolds tuned to each other. the timing belt keeps the crank shaft and the pulley for the intake/ exhaust valve combo in tune with the crank and values.

Its more likely you have jumped a timing belt and de timed your entire engine in order to get the multiple error codes required to flag all cyclinders as misfires..

More likely than.. the other scenario. of having the plastic feet fail on one or both of the chain tensioners in order to detune the timing father than the electrical components can adjust the spark and gas injections to keep the car running.


So, the simple responce as a summary.. the vehicle likely has a jumped timing belt or potentially failed valve timing chain tensioner "feet".

Both jobs mentioned above are likely to cost a lot of money. If you are a DIY (do it yourself) mechanic then you will want to search google for the 2 or 3 well known Audi forums. Audizine, audiforums and audiWorld.

Best of luck,
D_Dizzle

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Did you ask why the crank pulley needs replaced?

That unit is a solid piece of steel and I can't imagine what could go wrong with it unless it was damaged when it was removed when the timing belt was changed.

I have a 1997 Rodeo with 163,000 miles. It still is running but is showing its age. My son owned a 1995 model and went over 200,000 on it. Both vehicles suffered from excessive rust in the undercarriage.

If you are paying a mechanic to fix that vehicle, I'd propose that it is more expensive to keep running than it is worth.

Again, ask why he wants to replace the crank pulley. If the vehicle runs OK as it is, and his answer is not coherent, skip this repair and drive it for the life it has left with minimal repairs only.

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If it's anything like the six cylinder engines from Audi, which I'm very familiar with, and from what I remember of the V8, you have a timing belt that drives the water pump, crank, and exhaust cams, and also includes a tensioner and an idler roller. The timing chains come into play in the cylinder heads. What Audi did was to only drive the exhaust cams off of the crank, using the timing belt, and inside each cylinder head there is a timing chain assembly that is used to drive the intake cams off the exhaust cams. On a periodic service (like the timing service) you only need to do the timing belt. The timing chains are only replaced if the tensioners fail - you'll know this by a diesel-like clatter from the cylinder heads. Failure of the chain drive assemblies is very rare, which is good because they're incredibly expensive (on the V6 engines they're upwards of $700 each). If you're doing this job because it's due based on mileage, don't touch the timing chains in the cylinder heads - only change the timing belt, tensioner roller, relay arm, hydraulic tensioner, idler pulley, water pump, and serpentine belt. You can leave the chains alone.

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With the spark dying it sounds like electric problems. Your coil can be failing when it builds up heat sitting. The fan air and air from driving can keep the coil cool but then it acts like a heat sink when the engine sits.
The battery can also play out in heat, have it tested. Finally the ground wires could be dirty. The motor has more compression when hot. This time of year cold oil is not a factor on cold starts, so you do not have problems on the initial start. The starter ground seems okay, but the chassis ground for the ignition could be corroded.

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