Question about 2004 Mazda RX-8

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Brakes squeaking when pedal lightly depressed. Both front and rear pads been replaced within last year. Rear discs also been replaced

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Dear Sir,
Brakes (pads and discs) wear count on your use in millage/km not on time when they replaced, but a year is also good time , it may cause of minor dust inside pads get it clean. it will solve your problem.
Thanks.

Posted on Oct 12, 2010

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1 Answer

Brake peddle is low,


Pedal, not peddle. First make sure reservoir is full at the brake master cylinder. Then check your brake pads (for disc brakes) and/or brake shoes (for drum brakes). When the pads or shoes are very worn down, you will get a low pedal. If you have disc brakes on the front and drums on the rear wheels, first try just replacing the front brake pads. If you get a good pedal after the front is done, many people tend to let the rear brake shoes go unless they are making noise. These systems are designed to put most of the braking force on the front discs, so the rear shoes do not need changing as often.

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2009 Suzuki swift hatchback automatic 40000km and squealing brake noise and engine light is on why?


The two matters are unrelated. The squeaking brakes are because you need new brake pads, if you have new pads... the mechanic failed to use brake shim grease which stops the squeak. In severe cases, the front disc brakes may be scored... scratched deeply and require replacement. If you replace the front disc pads, replace the rear brake shoes as well! The service engine light is timed by your dealer to remind you when to take your car in for a service check. Many models have a sequence of steps that one can find on-line to reset the service indicator light back to re-zero the count.

Mar 12, 2015 | Suzuki Cars & Trucks

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Rear brakes gone within a year brand new vehicle


There is no normal as I don't know what the car is used for and how heavy the loads are and how hard you brake

Mar 18, 2014 | Dodge Grand Caravan Cars & Trucks

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Break pedal squeaking


is the squeak inside the car? if so, then yes it's probably the pedal or linkage. If it's outside the car, then either the brakes were done poorly or the pads are defective. Assuming you had the front and rear brakes done. Could be the other brakes if only 1 axle was serviced.

Dec 12, 2012 | 1999 Chrysler LHS

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1994 dodge 2500 diesel. Put remanfactored calipers and new hoses on the front of this truck. Now I have a soft pedal that if held fades to the floor. Thought the master cyl must have a leak in it. Replaced...


Hi,
sound as if you really do have a problem!
From your description I presume that you are confident in doing your own work?
The quickest way to check your system is to use brake hose clamps to isolate each section of the braking system. I would suggest that you rent or buy a set of the clamps.

Put the truck on axle stands and make sure it's safely secured. ]
If possible have an assistant to sit in the cab and depress the brake pedal on your instructions.
Place a brake hose clamp on both front brake hoses and the rear axle hose.
Depress the brake pedal firmly.
The pedal should have minimum movement, and be rock-solid and you should not be able to depress it further.
If the pedal does go down when you apply it, the likely reason is that the Brake Master Cyl is by-passing internally, ie, only one section is active.

You stated that the M/C had been replaced. so we shall presume that the brake pedal is rock hard.
Go to the rear brake hose clamp and release it. Instruct your assistant to depress the brake pedal. If the brake pedal moves a significant distance, then (a) your rear brake shoes require adjustment (b) rhere is a leaking brake cyl, (check for brake fluid in the drum) or (c) you have a "lazy' or a piston (s) which have siezed during a brake actuation. That problem will require removing the rear brake drums for further inspection. Not the problem? Then adjust the rear brakes if required, then depress the brake pedal again. The downward travel should now be noticeably reduced.

If all is well at the rear brakes. refit the brake hose clamp. Go to the passengers side front brake and have your assistant apply the footbrake. Pedal rockhard/minimun movement? Release the brake hose clamp whilst your assist has pressure on the pedal. spin the front wheel by hand, and note if (a) the brake pedal has excessive downward travel. (b) the brake pads are contacting the brake disc, (the wheel will cease rotating and you will hear the pads contact the disc.)

Pedal displays limited downward travel and pads contact disc? Refit the brake hose clamp and go to drivers side brake and follow the same procedure. If the pedal has excessive downward travel then you have found your inital problem.

If releasing both front brake hose clamps results in excessive brake pedal travel, then the problem will be easier to address if you deal with one side first, complete the resolution, test by using the brake hose clamps, then start / complete the other faulty brake.

Whichever side you start to work on, be methodical, boring as it sounds.
remove the road wheel, but before doing so, place a hand on the top and bottom of the tyre and rock the wheel away from you and check the bearing play. If memory serves me correctly, that year Dodge has the discs in one piece with the hub.

You have removed the wheel. Now, have your assistant turn the steering onto full right lock. Before continuing, I would like to remind you that the vehicle is up on axle stands and you have secured it safely, in order to conform with accepted safety parameters, correct?

The steering is now on full right lock and you can see both disc pads. Now, very carefully check the position of the caliper in relation to the disc pads. Is there and equal spacing on each side? Now, have your assistant release the brake pedal and very carefully observe the travel of the disc pad pistons. They should retract and the hub should turn freely by hand. A very light drag is allowed between disc pad and disc, but it should NOT be discernible when you rotate the hub by hand.

With no pressure on the brake pedal, and using an appropriate tool, attempt to have the caliper pistons retract into their cylinders / bores. Completed? Use caution as it is very easy to break / damage a disc by using undue force when retracting the pistons.

There is now an obvious gap between disc pads and disc (or rotor..sorry) Now, carefully check that the pad guide pins are not deformed and that the pads ride easily on them. if a pad jams when the brakes are applied, then, when the piston retracts, when force is removed from the brake pedal. There is an appreciable gap to close, upon the next application of the brakes!

Some types of disc pad retaining /guide pins are a tight fit, and it is very easy to tilt a pad when fitting the pins, causing the disc pad to fail to retract fully, and again, displayed by a brake pedal with excessive travel.

When the brake pedal is applied, the brake fluid has to fill the caliper piston bores, then exert pressure on the piston to force it against the disc pads, and they in turn are forced into contact with the disc. If the piston has to move an appreciable distance before contacting the disc pad, that takes more brake fluid to fill the bore of the piston, and the master cylinder piston has to travel further,resulting in a brake pedal that displays excessive travel .

I notice that you did not mention the type of effort or number of applications of the brake pedal which resulted in a firm pedal.

If you fitted replacement calipers, can I presume that you fitted new guide pins to the calipers?
Last but not least, (a) are they the correct calipers for the vehicle as regards piston bore size? The brake Master cyl will not be able to fill the bores of the calipers with enough fluid to drive the pistons out to apply the disc pads, if the bores are oversized. The pedal will also display excessive travel.
(b) If the brake master cyl is overfilled, when the brakes are applied, the master cyl will force fluid to the calipers, expand the caliper pistons, but will be unable to release the application to the pistons due to the fluid being unable to return to the master cyl as the allotted reservoir space has been filled with static fluid. When the brake pedal is depressed again, the Master cyl cannot service the caliper pistons on the first stroke as the pistons are locked at full stroke / travel in the bores, resulting in the brake pedal going to the floor, or giving that impression.
HOWEVER, that condition, if the vehicle is driven any distance, will result in the obvious odor of overheated disc brake pads, and the vehicle struggling to display any state of acceleration.
(c) Are they in fact the correct disc brake pads? It would be wise to remove a guide / retainer pin and check for free movement of the pad on the remaining pin. All ok, then refit the pin which you removed and test again. The pads have to be free to move on the pins, and thus align themselves with the face of the disc / rotor when the brakes are applied. Some people coat the pins with never-seeze or hi-temp grease when fitting them, others prefer them to be dry.

In closing, I would recommend that you check the full travel AND RETRACTION of the caliper pistons in their respective bores. It is not unknown for re-built / new parts to be defective.

It would be interesting to hear if any of the above proved to be beneficial in resolving your problem.

Jan 27, 2011 | 1994 Dodge Ram

1 Answer

What tools needed to replace front brake pads & rotors


Brake Pads
Removal & Installation
Front





3.4L front disc brake assembly
toy_4run_34_frontbrakeassembly.gif








4.0L and 4.7L front disc brake assembly
toy_4run_frontbrakeassembly.gif



To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Front wheel
    • Clip, 2 caliper pins, the anti-rattle spring then remove the 2 brake pads
      and the 4 anti-squeal shims

To Install:

CAUTION
Only replace brake pads on 1 side of the
vehicle at a time. Failure to use this procedure could cause the caliper pistons
on the opposite side of the vehicle to pop out requiring the reconditioning or
replacement of the brake caliper.


  1. Remove a small amount of brake fluid from the master cylinder.
  2. Install a used brake pad into the caliper and compress the caliper pistons.
  3. Apply disc brake grease to both sides of the inner anti-squeal shims.
  4. Install or connect the following:

    • Anti-squeal shims to the new brake pads
      NOTE: When replacing worn pads, the anti-squeal shims must be replaced
      together with the pads.

    • 2 brake pads
    • Anti-rattle spring and the 2 caliper pins
    • Clip
    • Front wheel

  5. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  6. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.

Rear
To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Rear wheel






      toy_4run_rearcalbolts.gif



    • 2 cylinder slide pins from rear caliper assembly
    • Caliper assembly from rear caliper mounting
    • 2 brake pads with anti-squeal shims from rear caliper mounting
    • 2 anti-squeal shims from each disc brake pads
    • Pad wear indicator plate from the inner side disc brake pad
    • 4 pad support plates from the rear caliper mounting

To Install:


  1. Install or connect the following:

    • 4 pad support plates on the rear caliper mounting
    • Pad wear indicator plate on the inside brake pad
      Note: Install the pad wear indicator facing downward.

    • Anti-squeal shims on each brake pad
    • 2 disc brake pads with anti-squeal shims to the caliper assembly

  2. Apply lithium soap base glycol grease to the sliding part of 2 caliper slide
    pins.
  3. Install or connect the following:

    • Disc brake caliper assembly with 2 caliper slide pins
    • Torque to 65 ft-lbs (88 Nm)
    • Rear wheel

  4. Depress the brake pedal several times to seat the brake pads.
  5. Check the brake fluid level and top off as needed.
--- Removal & Installation
Front
To Remove:


  1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the precautions in the beginning of
    this section.
  2. Remove or disconnect the following:

    • Front wheel
    • Front brake caliper assembly

  3. Make matchmarks on the disc and the axle hub.
  4. Remove the front disc.

To Install:


  1. Align matchmarks and disc onto axle hub.
  2. Install or connect the following:

    • Front brake caliper assembly with the 2 bolts

      1. Torque to 90 ft-lbs (123 Nm)

    • Front wheel

Sep 23, 2010 | 2003 Toyota 4Runner

2 Answers

Brakes squeak


If you put the lifetime pads they are much harder and although you will get extended life the pads have a tendency to squeak try getting in a empty parking lot and put a little pressure on the brake pedal while backing up a few times it sometimes helps but is only temp, I prefer the non lifetime pads for this reason

Apr 29, 2010 | 2000 Ford Taurus

2 Answers

How do I bleed the front brakes on a 2004 audi a4 quattro?


For front brake pads replacement you need only usually wrench set, inclusive 7 mm allen key also. But for rear brake pads replacement you need obligatory a special caliper piston pressing tool, in order to press back rear caliper piston with parking brake automatic adjustment!!! For front brake pads. First you must verify yours front brake disc diameter: 280 mm or 288 mm. (On my car y have 288 mm). After that you can buy the brake pads (with wear sensor). For change front brake pads you must raise vehicle, remove wheels, extract the retaining spring of the caliper, and remove the caliper as follow: 1. Do not disconnect the brake hose from the caliper, and do not allow the caliper to hang by the brake hose! 2. Remove top and bottom caps (on back side of the caliper) for access to guide pins, then unbolt and remove them from the brake carrier. Remove the caliper. 3. Now you must thoroughly clean the brake calipers (free of grease). 4. Remove outer brake pad from brake carrier. 5. Pull inner brake pad out of brake caliper piston. 6. Check up the brake fluid level on the reservor, and emptying if neccessary! 7. Push piston back into brake caliper housing. 8. Install inner brake pad (with expanding spring) in brake caliper piston. (Arrow marked on pad - if exist, must point in direction of brake disc rotation when vehicle is moving forward). 9. Install outer brake pad into brake carrier. 10. Bolt brake caliper housing to brake carrier using two guide pins. Tightening torque is 25 Nm. 11. Install both caps. 12. Insert retaining spring into brake caliper housing. Important: Depress the brake pedal firmly several times while the car is stationary so that the brake pads adjust to their normal operating positions!!! Check brake fluid level and top up if neccessary!!!

Oct 01, 2009 | 2004 Audi A4

1 Answer

Brake pedal losses pressure 1 to 2 pumps back to full pressure.


you still air in system or a bad master cylinder or brake booster.

Apr 03, 2009 | 1989 Toyota Land Cruiser

2 Answers

Rear Brakes


Brakes can vary in the amount of time that they last. For starters there are many diffrent grades of pads, the cheap pads last me about a month, but the good expensive pads last me 6-8months or so, and I drive really hard. So depending on how drive can determine how long they last. Usually you can replace your rear pads once for every two or three sets of front pads you replace as most of the braking work is done from the front. Pads are made intentionally to squeak when they are running down, so when you hear that squeak get em replaced, but if the rear's aren't squeaking just change the front and do the rears next time.

Good Luck
Hope this help

Jun 26, 2008 | 2006 BMW L7

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