Outboard motor won't go - just serviced - not a car
JUst serviced. This is a very lightly used 1988 model now just serviced and I just put on my inflatable tender today. I can't go faster then idle or the engine bogs down and immediately quits. I took the cover off and can get better rpms - put the cover back on and back to even lower rpms. I can't get it to top speed. It starts very poorly at the beginning - but then after warm - restarts on first pull. As I said, this has just been serviced - new tank, new fuel today. She will speed up with cover off and then slow down. Never hits top rpms - seems to cycle - aned most weird - less rpms with cover on - then with engine cover off??? I don't know as I am not at all mechanically inclined - but it seems to me that maybe it isn't getting enough air mixture? carb flap is open - but I don't know what and where to adjust richness or lean. Help.
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talk with a mariner service center
get a workshop manual for the outboard
with many outboards the selection rod comes apart with the bottom section as if you were replacing a water pump
see if you can undo the top section and let it fall out the bottom or lift the broken section out past the motor
talk wit a service center first and get some ideas
first up replace the water pump in the shaft housing as the impeller blades will be breaking off. The rich running will be from will be from corrosion build up in the fuel system (carby -needle and seat or injectors). I suggest that you pull the side plate off the engine and check the sacrificial plate for corrosion . The plate between the water cooling and the exhaust
Really because of the risk when in use it is advisable to have it all done by accredited outboard specialists.
Not sure if I read your post right, but you have to have a hot wire to the ignition switch from the battery, independent of anything else on the car, before the switch will work. The CPS is a common problem on the jeeps, though. If bad, you may not get a coil signal.
The 88 Deville is one of many cars made by GM that is using the antitheft system called VATS PASSKEY. (its that little black chip in the key) When this system fails, the car can't get the signal from the chip, so it locks out the starter to prevent theft. The car thinks it's being hot wired, so it shuts down. Look for a light on the dash that says SECURITY or ANTITHEFT. This is proof of a security failure. This might be your problem. This link explains more. http://vatspasslockpasskeysecurityhelp.yolasite.com/
The problem that you are looking at could be 1 of a couple of things. first check to make sure that your fusible links are not bad ford normally has 4 to 5 that are tied together at a single power point. use a test light or VOM meter to check these out if you have power on all of them I would then check out all fuses and rule out the possibility of a bad fuse. If they are OK check and make sure you have power to the ignition switch.
If you go to the library use their online resources and go to the Alldata site put in all information (make, model , year, and engine size) it will give you all wiring diagrams and trouble tree guides. This is one of the best auto repair programs that I have found but use the library because if you do it online it is quite expensive.
Hope this helps you out with your problem.
for driving you can use drive as its the same as driving a car before overdrive became available.most people drive with their cars in overdrive as it was designed for fuel economy and lower rpm`s while driving over a certain speed and it won`t hurt the motor.