Question about 1997 Ford Econoline

1 Answer

1997 E-150 changed master cylinder and booster now can not take out of park. what is the booster to cylinder adjustment

Posted by on

1 Answer

  • Level 2:

    An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Expert
  • 195 Answers

Sounds like under the dash you may have moved the switch that releases the electronic solenoid that disengages the shifter look near the brake pedal and look for a button that is not being released. It should be plastic.

Posted on Oct 11, 2010

1 Suggested Answer

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

2 Answers

What do I do if my brakes keep applying themselves after I replaced the brake booster?


going to have to check the whole system --was this reason booster was replaced --recheck installation is brake rod properly adjusted -vacuum line and valve working --is master cylinder performing properly no seals damaged or blown ---are the lines in good shape --the abs controller functioning --are the calipers performing correctly not sticking or jamming --are the rubber hoses good sometimes the hoses deteriorate internally and not let fluid return --if rear drums are they adjusted correctly

Oct 01, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you replace the brake booster on a 1989 Lincoln town car?


Remove vacuum hose from booster. Remove the two nuts holding the brake master cylinder to the booster. Carefully move booster to one side for ease of removal. Under the dashboard drivers side, remove the clip connecting the brake pedal to the booster actuator rod. Remove the two nuts holding the booster to the firewall. Outside, remove the booster. Installation is reverse of removal. There may be an adjustable rod in the replacement booster. It is important that it is adjusted properly or you may not have brakes or you could damage the master cylinder. Looking at the old booster, check to see how far the rod extends out the front of the booster. Check the new booster and make sure that the new rod extends the same distance. DO NOT ADJUST THE RODS TO THE SAME LENGTH BY PLACING THEM SIDE BY SIDE! Different designs could cause different rod length internal to the booster. What is important is the amount that extends out from the booster. This distance will not change since the master cylinder bolts directly up to the booster.

Oct 16, 2015 | Lincoln Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to install breck booster


brake.
fsm book, install.
  1. On vehicles with an adjustable pushrod, adjust the brake booster rod so the measurement between the booster and the centerline of the clevis hole is 4.92 in. (15mm).
  2. Install the brake booster assembly and tighten the attaching nuts to 9-12 ft. lbs. (13-16 Nm).
  3. Adjust the master cylinder pushrod and install the master cylinder assembly.
  4. Connect the booster pushrod to the pedal clevis.
  5. Connect the vacuum lines to the brake booster.
  6. Connect the negative battery cable.
  7. Start the engine and check for proper brake operation.

Jun 26, 2014 | 1993 Nissan Altima

1 Answer

1998 chevy blazer when we replaced brake booster and now it will not shift out of park whenits started


Not sure I am following your question, or maybe questions.
If you can not shift out of park with the key on, the brake switch on the pedal may be faulty or out of adjustment.
If the warning light is on, it could be the fluid level sensor in the master cylinder, or the parking brake switch.
If you have no brakes after you try bleeding the master cylinder, the rod inside the booster may not be connected correctly. If you replaced the master cylinder along with the booster, you would need to bench bleed the master before installing it in the truck.

Oct 08, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Replace brake booster


here you go...

The power brake booster is a tandem vacuum suspended unit. Some models may be equipped with a single or dual function vacuum switch which activates a brake warning light should low booster vacuum be present. Under normal operation, vacuum is present on both sides of the diaphragms. When the brakes are applied, atmospheric air is admitted to one side of the diaphragms to provide power assistance.
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

1994-97 Models
See Figures 1 and 2
  1. Apply the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
  2. Remove the master cylinder-to-power brake booster nuts, then reposition the master cylinder and combination valve out of the way; if necessary, support the master cylinder on a wire to prevent damaging the brake lines.

When removing the master cylinder from the power brake booster, it is not necessary to disconnect the hydraulic lines, therefore the brake system should not have to be bled.
  1. Disconnect the vacuum hose from the power brake booster.


12_11_2011_8_48_59_pm.gif

Fig. Fig 1: Common power brake booster attachment


  1. From under the dash, remove the retainer and washer from the brake pedal on 1994 utility models. On all other models, remove the retainer and brake switch from the brake pedal.
  2. Disconnect the pushrod from the brake pedal.
  3. From under the dash, remove the power brake booster-to-cowl retaining nuts.
  4. Back under the hood, remove the power brake booster and the gasket from the cowl.

To install:
  1. Position the booster to the cowl using a new gasket.
  2. Install the bo oster retaining nuts and tighten to 16 ft. lbs. (22 Nm) 1994 utility models, 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) on 1994 pick-up models and 27 ft. lbs. (36 Nm) on all 1995-97 models.
  3. Connect the pedal pushrod and install the washer or switch and the retainer.
  4. Connect the vacuum hose.
12_11_2011_8_52_07_pm.gif

Fig. Fig. 2: Checking the piston booster rod using the gauge tool

  1. For all vehicles cover ed in this guide, gauge the booster rod:
    1. Apply 25 in. Hg (85 kPa) of vacuum using a hand held vacuum pump or apply maximum engine vacuum.
    2. Chec k the maximum and minimum rod lengths using J-37839 or an equivalent pushrod height gauge.
    3. If the piston is not within limits, install a service adjustable piston rod and adjust it to the correct length.
  2. Reposition the master cylinder and combination valve bracket to the booster studs, then secure using the retaining nuts. For details, please refer to the master cylinder procedure located earlier in this section.
  3. Start and run the engine, then check for proper booster operation.

Dec 11, 2011 | 1996 GMC Jimmy

4 Answers

Brake pedal goes nearly to floor front pads, calipers, brake hoses changed, rotors turned Master cylinder changed, brake booster check valve changed rear brakes checked, drums good no ridge, shoe's...


I would go with not bled correctly

The booster should hold up with a hard pedal until
you start the engine, then vacuum causes it to move
down when pressing on the brake

Sep 16, 2011 | Saturn SC Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to trouble shoot the brake system?


To trouble shoot the brake system you have to check:AntiLock Brake System ABS:
Hydraulic Modulator
Basically this unit holds steady or bleeds off pressure in brake line, as necessary, when the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) detects an abnormal deceleration in the speed of the wheel. On 2000 and later models the EBCM and Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) are mounted on a bracket attached on the left strut tower.
Wheel Speed Sensors, brake fluid level, brake hoses and lines, inspect and replacement, Brake hydraulic system-bleeding, Brake light switch, check, adjustment and replacement.
Disk brake caliper, disk brake pads, drum brake shoes, master cylinder, master cylinder reservoir, O-rings replacement, parking brake adjustment, parking brake cables inspect and replacement, parking brake shoes-replacement, power brake booster, check or replacement, wheel cylinder inspect and replace.

Oct 10, 2010 | 2000 Chevrolet Venture

5 Answers

Brake pedal is hard but brakes not very effective. booster holds vacuum. replaced booster check valve, no change. dash brake light stays on most of time but sometimes goes out for a while then comes back...


Check the brake fluid first.is it low or no brake fluid at all.is the brake fluid got dried up or leaked out. Sounds like the power brake booster is bad, that is what the master cylinder is bolted too. There is a rubber hose that has a plastic valve in it were it snaps into the booster, Pull that rubber hose out of the booster and off of the engine, Now the end that you took off the engine. You should be able to **** through the line, but not be able to blow through it. If you can then replace the valve, It is a one way valve.
If that is all right then hook hose back up to the engine and start engine, You should hear a major vacuum leak at the valve end, put you finger over the valve and it should stop making noise and engine should smooth out. If it don't the rubber hose must be leaking or the tube on the engine were the hose hooks to is stoped up.
Also check the master cylinder if power booster is replaced. If the brake light is coming and going check the brake light switch. check fig for the internal assembly parts:-- bdea807.gif

To check engine vacuum, connect a vacuum gauge to the supply hose that runs from the intake manifold to the booster. A low reading (below 16 inches) may indicate a hose leak or obstruction, a blockage in the exhaust system (plugged catalytic converter, crushed pipe, bad muffler, etc.), or a problem in the engine itself (manifold vacuum leak, bad valve, head gasket, etc.).
The condition of the diaphragm inside the booster is also important. If cracked, ruptured or leaking, it won't hold vacuum and can't provide much power assist. Leaks in the master cylinder can allow brake fluid to be siphoned into the booster, accelerating the demise of the diaphragm. So if there's brake fluid inside the vacuum hose, it's a good indication the master cylinder is leaking and needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Wetness around the back of the master cylinder would be another clue to this kind of problem.
To check the vacuum booster, pump the brake pedal with the engine off until you've bled off all the vacuum from the unit. Then hold the pedal down and start the engine. You should feel the pedal depress slightly as engine vacuum enters the booster and pulls on the diaphragm. No change? Then check the vacuum hose connection and engine vacuum. If okay, the problem is in the booster and the booster needs to be replaced.
Vacuum boosters also have an external one-way check valve at the hose inlet that closes when the engine is either shut off or stalls. This traps vacuum inside the booster so it can still provide one or two power assisted stops until the engine is restarted. The valve also helps maintain vacuum when intake vacuum is low (when the engine is under load or is running at wide open throttle). You can check the valve by removing it and trying to blow through it from both sides. It should pass air from the rear but not from the front.
Replacing a vacuum booster is a fairly straight forward job. All you have to do is disconnect it from the brake pedal on the inside and unbolt the master cylinder. The pushrod that runs from the booster into the back of the master cylinder must have the specified amount of play.
You will typically find the power brake booster mounted on the firewall attached to the master cylinder. The master cylinder is connected to the brake pedal.
Thanks. keep updated for any more query.you can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Jul 15, 2010 | 1997 Ford F250 SuperCab

2 Answers

I have very little rear brakes on my 91 w350. the shoes are fine and so are the wheel cylinders. I have recently replaced the master cylinder and had the system power bled at a shop. Is it the...


I assume you bled the rest of the system. If so check your rear adjustment. Adjust the parking brake at the same time. If no fix, then open up your rear brakes and inspect the hardware, cylinder/caliper, and adjuster. Only after all that would I suspect the proportioning valve. Ways to test that vary vehicle to vehicle. Good luck!

Apr 20, 2010 | Dodge W250 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Brake Master Cylinder Push Rod Clearance


No Adjustment.Rod is made into booster,there's a short rod between master cyclinder and booster but not adjustable!!

May 10, 2009 | 1999 Saturn SL

Not finding what you are looking for?
1997 Ford Econoline Logo

Related Topics:

89 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Ford Experts

yadayada
yadayada

Level 3 Expert

75005 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22095 Answers

fordexpert

Level 3 Expert

5470 Answers

Are you a Ford Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...