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Possible Front Wheel Hub Bearing Assy If so- do both sides You can get them from Rock Auto online any quality brand you want. Will only tell if it is bad by removing the brake caliper,pads & rotor & turning hub to feel the rough bearing by hand If you have front wheel drive with drive axles as I guess you do,then that may not work so your guessing On my lincoln rear drive- I could at least hear the side that was bad from in the car & also had the 25 to 35 mph noise Sound won't change at that speed if you take out of gear
I have the same truck! You could have a leaking wheel cylinder. Look at the brake drum on the driver rear and see if its wet. also check your brake fluid level. If you are leaking you will be low. Wheel cyl's are not super hard to do, just make sure you do everything and both sides. also do one side at a time so you can use the other side for reference when putting it all back together.
Do you know which one is holding on? I would if it has flexible hoses crimp off the rears with proper brake line crimps & drive but carfully as your brake function will be reduced. If it dosn't happen you know the problem lies in the rear if not you know its in the front. If in front uncrimp the rears & crimp 1 front drive & see what happens but with only 1 crimped the car will want to pull sideways under brakes if problem remains you know it is the other side, repeat with other side to make sure. This should let you know where the fault is if the fault remains its probably not any of the callipers or drums.
That sounds like your brake caliper has engaged on the front drivers side and not releasing which has eaten up your brake pads. Suggest you pull the hub and brake pad out and check whether the piston is retracking as it should.
did you set timing properly ? you have to unplug the timing wire connector by the distributor its a tan and black wire with a black plug in it then set the timing at 6 degrees in park for a manual trans 6 degrees in drive with emergency brake on the firing order is 18436572 the left of the square power connector on the distributor cap is no 1 going to the left clockwise follow the wires to each plug carefully and make sure they are not mixed up it happens . driver side front is plug # 1 passenger front is plug # 2 driver side second from front is plug # 3 passenger side second from front is plug # 4 and so on also check the distributor cap and rotor for any signs of corrosion p.s. the # 6 and 8 wires are the ones usually mixed up after you set the timing the computer has to go through a re-learn mode for a few minutes so idle the car for a few minutes then drive it at about 20-30 percent throttle and let the trans shift into high gear for automatics manual same thing but shift it yourself after 5-10 minutes it should be fine
Sound more like the wheel/hub bearing. An axle will usually make a clicking noise when turning, and be quiet when going straight. It probably wont break by may but it may get louder. Get it checked asap.
the problem will be in the master cylinder compensating port blocked
disc brakes do not have return valves or residual line pressure like drum brakes
if at any time the heated brake fluid is not allowed to expand back into the reservoir it expands and pushes the disc brakes harder on
catch 22 situation
dragging pads generate heat , fluid expands and presses the pads on harder = more heat =more pressure
the rotors have to be running true ( no wobbles) wheel bearings have to be correctly adjusted or replaced and the calliper body has to move freely on the mounting pins to allow for self centering action
instead of the mechanic go to an accredited brake professional shop and have a proper diagnosis and quote done