Question about 2003 Honda CR-V

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How can I find the part number for a brake master cylinder that fits to my CRV 2003 4WD?

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You can call up a couple different suppliers.Here are a couple numbers.All you have to do is give them the year and make also model of your vehicle and they can give you the exact replacement part number, it's real easy.The first is CSK auto parts...520-723-0307.This is AutoZone's number....520-723-1141.I hope I could help, Thanks, rate me accordingly.

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

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No brake fluid out of master cylinder to one front brake caliper


one of the pistons in the brake master cylinder is poss stuck at the bottom of its stroke or the return spring has broken, dont take any chances with brakes change that master cylinder

Apr 17, 2017 | 1993 Jaguar XJ6

1 Answer

Replace mastercylinder'


The master cylinder in your Dodge Caravan is responsible for forcing fluid pressure to the four wheels when you apply the brakes. The master cylinder is also the main storage vessel for brake fluid. If the seals inside your master cylinder develop leaks, you will lose brake pressure internally. This could cause problems for the brake booster, as well as causing the brake pedal to sink to the floor when you press the pedal. The master cylinder can be replaced in about 30 minutes.
  • 1 Press the brake pedal a few times until you have a firm pedal.
  • 2 Open the hood and prop it up with the hood support rod. Locate the master cylinder, which is mounted to the brake booster on the bulkhead between the engine and passenger compartments, just in front of the driver. Spray the top area of the master cylinder liberally with brake cleaner. Push down lightly on the master cylinder filler tube and turn it counterclockwise to remove it.
  • 3 Locate the fluid-level sensor connector(s). There may be one or two sensors on your vehicle and they appear as wires, in a plastic housing, plugged into the side of the master cylinder. Remove each connector by depressing the locking clip and pulling straight out from the master cylinder.
  • 4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder by turning the fittings counterclockwise with the flare nut wrench. Gently pull the brake lines away from the master cylinder.
  • 5 Remove the bolts securing the master cylinder to the brake booster by turning the nuts counterclockwise with a socket and ratchet. Pull the master cylinder straight out, being careful to avoid spilling brake fluid on your vehicle's painted surfaces.
  • 6 Verify that the rubber O-ring seal is in place on the new master cylinder and then slide the master cylinder in place over the mounting studs. Thread the nuts onto the studs by turning them clockwise. Tighten the nuts to 18 foot-pounds. You may have to hold the booster actuator rod in position as you install the master cylinder.
  • 7 Fill the master cylinder with new brake fluid and thread the bleeder fittings into the brake line ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Install the rubber tubes onto the fittings and secure the tube ends in the master cylinder filler opening. Make sure the ends of the tubes are completely submerged.
  • 8 Depress the brake pedal a number of times, slowly and evenly, while a helper watches to ensure that no more air escapes from the bleeder tubes. Remove the bleeder fittings by turning them counterclockwise and carefully set them aside. Reconnect the electrical fittings by firmly pushing straight in until they click.
  • 9 Thread the brake lines into the proper ports by turning them clockwise by hand. Tighten the fittings to approximately 13 foot-pounds with the flare nut wrench. Have your helper press the brake pedal slowly and evenly five times and then hold it. Slowly crack open the front fitting by turning it a quarter-turn with the flare nut wrench and allow the brake pedal to fall to the floor. Have your helper hold the pedal on the floor as you tighten the fitting. Repeat this process until no more air bubbles appear. Repeat this process on the rear port.
    Retighten the fittings to 13 foot-pounds. Install the filler tube by placing it on the filler opening and turning it clockwise. Refill the master cylinder to the "Fill" mark or 1/4-inch from the top

Oct 05, 2011 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

Bleeding the brakes ,But no fluide in the rear brakes


Check the master cylinder, pump up the brakes and crack the line at the master cylinder to the rear brakes, if no pressure and it was ran empty or is new part, bench bleed the master cylinder and recheck for pressure at the master cylinder, if you have pressure follow the brake line to the proportioning valve and crack that line before and after the fitting, good luck.

May 09, 2011 | Suzuki Sidekick Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Have a brake leak in the driver side rear inside the hub.How do I fix it


Open up the bonnet and look for round black color device fitted near the driver side inside the engine bay. There will be pipes fitted to it and a brake oil reservoir on it. This is the brake master cylinder and round thing is brake booster. Any one of these is leaking and brake oil being very thin, is seeping inside your car. Take a look at the end of the pipes fitted to brake master cylinder, if anyone is leaking, tighten them. Still there is leak? your need to replace the master cylinder.

May 03, 2011 | 1996 Volkswagen Jetta

1 Answer

I think i need a master cylinder in my 1994 pontiac bnneville? How hard/easy it it to replace myself. I can purchase ne for around 50-60 dollars.


Yes it is not that hard to replace.

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REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
  1. Retainer and electrical connector from fluid level sensor.
  2. Drain brake fluid front mister cylinder reservoir.
  3. Reservoir hose from master cylinder. Plug hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  4. Brake pipes from master cylinder. Plug open pipes to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  5. Two attaching nuts.
  6. Master cylinder.
  7. Reservoir, if it is to he used on replacement master cylinder.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
  1. Reservoir onto master cylinder, as needed.
  2. Master cylinder on to power booster.
  3. Attaching nuts. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.).
  4. Brake pipes. Tighten brake pipe fittings to 15 Nm (11 lb. ft.).
  5. Reservoir hose onto master cylinder.
  6. Fill master cylinder reservoir to full level mark using only Delco Supreme 11 Brake Fluid, or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid.
  7. Electrical connector to fluid level sensor, secure with retainer.
  8. Bleed hydraulic system.
  9. Recheck fluid level in reservoir
113253687

Mar 09, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

1 Answer

Have an 89 festiva changed 5 master cylinders and still cant bleed front driver and rear pass wheel and also changed distribution block 3 times. i cant bleed it rite from the front port of the master...


Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding
  1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.
  1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.
  1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
  1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
  1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.
  1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.
  1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
  1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.
  1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.
  1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.
  1. Close the bleeder fitting.
  1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.
  1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.
  1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.
  1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.
  1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
  1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

Jan 04, 2011 | 1991 Ford Festiva

1 Answer

Had new brake pipes fitted also new master cylinder but brakes are still spongy when the engine is running, when its not the pedal is hard.Please can you help. The vehicle is a Vreg honda crv.


Hi yes this is definatley air still in the system, you need the brakes bleeding again, it sounds like they were not done correctly take it back to the garage where you had them done and get them to do them again....hope this helps

Dec 11, 2010 | Honda CR-V Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

When I start the truck, brake pedal goes down on it's own and will not come back up unless you pull it up , Booster?


The booster is working properly if the pedal goes down a little when starting the truck. Seems more like it's a master cylinder problem if it won't pump up.

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Disconnect the warning indicator at the master cylinder 88289p00.jpg
Fig. 2: Remove the fluid to minimize the amount that would otherwise inevitably be spilled 88289p01.jpg
Fig. 3: Unscrew the line fittings at the master cylinder 88289p02.jpg
Fig. 4: Hold a rag under the fittings to keep fluid from dripping all over things 88289p03.jpg
Fig. 5: Unbolt the master cylinder from the brake booster 88289p04.jpg
Fig. 6: Remove the master cylinder from the vehicle and set it in a clean location 88289p05.jpg
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Apply the brake pedal several times to exhaust all the vacuum in the system.
  3. Detach and cap the brake lines from the master cylinder.
  4. If equipped, detach the brake warning indicator connector. NOTE: A turkey baster (tapered tube with a squeeze ball on top) works well for removing fluid from the reservoir (see photo).
  5. Siphon off the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir to minimize spillage when lines are disconnected.
  6. If applicable, disconnect and cap the Hydraulic Control Unit (HCU) supply hose at the master cylinder reservoir and secure in a position to prevent loss of fluid.
  7. Unfasten the 2 nuts and lockwashers that attach the master cylinder to the brake booster.
  8. Remove the master cylinder from the booster by sliding it forward and upward from the vehicle. To install:
  9. Install a new seal in the groove in the master cylinder mounting face.
  10. Position the master cylinder assembly over the booster pushrod and onto the 2 studs on the booster assembly.
  11. Install the retaining nuts, then tighten to 18–25 ft. lbs. (24–34 Nm).
  12. Uncap and connect the brake lines to the master cylinder. Tighten the front fitting to 16–21 ft. lbs. (21–29 Nm), and the rear fitting to 10–15 ft. lbs. (15–20 Nm).
  13. Uncap and connect the HCU hose to the master cylinder reservoir fitting and secure with a hose clamp.
  14. If equipped, connect the brake warning indicator.
  15. Fill the master cylinder with Heavy Duty Brake Fluid C6AZ-19542-AA or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid from a clean, sealed container. Bleed the entire brake system, as outlined in this section.
  16. Connect the negative battery cable.
  17. Operate the brake several times, then check for external hydraulic leaks.
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Aug 03, 2010 | 1992 Ford F350

1 Answer

I put a new master cylinder on my car need help on how to bleed them please


The master cylinder should have been bled before installing it. The fittings and a small section of rubber hose should have came with it. If you have these fittings, you can still bleed it without removing the castercylinder. Install the fittings where brake lines come out and run the rubber hose into the "full" master cylinder and have someone pump the brakes slowly until all the air bubbles disappear. Reattach brake lines and the master cylinder should be all set. You will probably have to bleed brakes at each wheel

May 10, 2010 | 1988 Oldsmobile Delta 88

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