How to change differential axle fluid - 2004 Toyota Highlander

First, I'm not a Mazda representative.
* Check warranty. Call dealer for service.

*** The following is for information only ***
* you need to access under the vehicle. There are two plugs (site and drain).
* Some differentials may only have the site plug. Draining may require the use of a pump or complete disassembly of back cover.
* Check the used fluid for metal flakes (use a magnet).
* Check the fluid for color and burnt smell.
* Removing back cover may be a preferred method if checking a car/truck for damage.
* Tips on changing differential fluid (dodge ram); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aSSYlMInjOQ
* Rear differential fluid change ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lNLc3jmgq_Y
* Differential change (detailed); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KmqMUJb-E4M
* Topping off differential ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=afv4uhFwyz0
* Trans and differential change (Miata); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfIPFfov9ns
* Differential fluid change (Mazda CRX-5); https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T6kcC_7I1-8
* Changing front axle ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jydxpsh13WQ
* Replace CV Drive 2001 Mazda; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vW_c6ZjyuLI
* Replace Mazda 626 axle ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COvjd1iKnrI

Aloha, ukeboy57

Additional links; (some may void warranty. call support to check.)
* CV (Corvette) axle; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH98nX8fb6M
* Changing axle (Ford) ; https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HCVHPXmbOhA

Hello there,

From this page https://www.worldsbestoil.ca/product-cross-reference.php?year=1996&make=TOYOTA&model=TACOMA&engine=2.7L&vin=1



Extract.......

.Engine, 2WD, with filter - 5.4 quarts [1]

Engine, 4WD, with filter - 5.3 quarts [1]

Cooling System, Initial Fill - 9 quarts

AMSOIL Antifreeze and Engine Coolant

Automatic Transmission, A340E Initial Fill - 1.7 quarts

Automatic Transmission, A340F Initial Fill - 2.2 quarts

Automatic Transmission, A43D Initial Fill - 2.6 quarts

Automatic Transmission, Total Fill

4 speed A340F - 10.4 quarts

4 speed A340E - 7.7 quarts

4 speed A43D - 6.9 quarts

Manual Transmission, - 5.3 pints

Differential, With ADRD Front - 2.6 pints

Differential, Without ADRD Front - 2.4 pints

Differential, 2WD Without LSD Rear - 6 pints

Differential, 4WD Extra Long Rear - 4.5 pints

Differential, With LSD Rear - 6.4 pints

Differential, Standard Rear - 6 pints

Transfer Case, - 2.2 pints\'

Action: Description

Inspect Cooling system hoses
Torque Body Fasteners
Inspect Idle speed
Inspect Exhaust system heat shields
Inspect Fuel lines
Inspect Emission System
Torque Frame Fasteners
Replace Air filter element
Inspect Drive Belt(s)
Change fluid Automatic transmission/transaxle
Inspect Parking brake
Inspect Ball joints
Drain, flush & refill Cooling system
Inspect Steering system
Inspect Brake system
Inspect Brake lines & hoses
Inspect Axle Shaft Oil Seal
Change fluid Rear differential
Inspect Driveshaft Universal Joint(s)
Inspect Constant Velocity Joint Boots
Change fluid Brake system
Replace Crankcase Oil Filter
Lubricate Door checks
Inspect fluid level Manual transmission/transaxle
Inspect fluid level Front differential
Inspect fluid level Transfer case
Inspect fluid level Rear differential
Change fluid Crankcase

Auto or 5-speed?
Subarus have CV axles in front and back. And a drive shaft from the center differential of the transmission to the back differential.

Yes, it could be the drive shaft or axle. If you turn the car hard left or right do you hear any noises - usually a 'clicking' sound? This is likely a CV axle in front.

Check the fluid in the transmission (Automatic) (info is in the Owner's Manual) to make sure it's full and/or gear oil in the front differential.

If it's an Automatic transmission, the fluid may need changed - NOT FLUSHED - if it has more than 30K miles since last changed.
GL,
TD

I'd say yes. The differential fluid is often overlooked by oil change technicians, even though it's something that should be topped off periodically.

It probably would cost more than that to repair it once it wears out.
Axle Housing Assembly Removal & Installation To Remove:

1. Lift the vehicle.
2. Drain the lubricant from the rear axle housing.
3. Remove the rear axle assembly from the vehicle.
4. Remove the brake caliper brackets from the rear hubs.
5. Remove the rear cover and gasket from the rear axle housing.
6. Remove the rear axle shafts from the vehicle.
7. Remove the rear differential assembly from the vehicle.
8. Remove the brake backing plates from the rear hubs.
9. Remove the rear drive pinion shaft yoke and seal from the drive pinion.
10. Remove the drive pinion from the rear axle housing.

To Install:

1. Install the drive pinion into the rear axle housing.
2. Install the rear drive pinion shaft yoke and seal onto the drive pinion.
3. Install the rear differential assembly into the vehicle.
4. Adjust the differential side bearing preload and the backlash.
5. Perform a gear tooth contact pattern check.
6. Install the brake backing plates onto the rear hubs.
7. Install the rear axle shafts into the vehicle.
8. Install the rear cover and gasket onto the rear axle housing.
9. Install the brake caliper brackets onto the rear hubs.
10. Install the rear axle assembly into the vehicle.
11. Refill the lubricant in the rear axle housing.
12. Lower the vehicle.

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I think that changing the fluid would take about an hour, and depending on the garage, and the labor rate, that they might elect to take the rear cover off of the differential, and drain it that way and replace the fluid once it was put back on. He could inspect the gears while the cover was off and tell you how bad it was.'

Do you hear any clunking or gear mesh noises from the rear when putting it in gear or running the vehicle?


Some mechanics would simply top off the fluid and wait until it wears out, which could be several thousand miles in the future.

Use gear oil for it of the recommended viscosity in the service manual.

Generally thicker than motor oil.

So, adding fluid would cost only the amount of the fluid plus some labor.
A bottle of fluid might cost $9.99 or so depending on where you get it.

You might be able to do this yourself if you crawl under there, remove the fill plug at the top, and just add gear oil. If there isn't enough room you might drive it up on some ramps and then crawl under there.

It sounds like your limited slip differential is in need of a fluid change.
The clutch packs in the axle require a special friction modifier,about 4 ounces added to the axle lube,which fixes the chattering issue.
I'd suggest someone drop the axle diff cover and check or change the
fluid,to see if there are any big metal pcs. in there. If there is no damage,drain the diff fluid and add the friction modifier,only if a SLD..

Note: Only add the friction modifier,if you have a limited slip differential.
Since I can't physically see your vehicle,make sure a mechanic does
it right.

Not that difficult, raise and support the rear of the truck and remove the wheels. Might as well replace both sides so you know you have new seals, remove the differential cover and drain the fluid. Once differential is opened and cleaned , remove the axle "C" clip that hold the axle in place and slide the axle out. Once the axle is out remove the wheel seal and clean around the area. This would be a good time to replace the wheel bearing too since you have access to them and there not that expensive. Install the new bearing and seal, note make sure you oiled the bearing and seal before installing it back and take care when installing the axle back in and "C: clip. Use RTV silicon gasket maker to seal the differential cover and wheels back on and lower. If your lazy like i am, you can drain the differential fluid and replace it with a 50/50 mix with gear oil and Lucas engine oil additives. That may stop the leak and get you a few more miles. You gear oil is (ford 75W-140) (Dana 80W-90)and the capacity is 2.6 liters and 3.5 liters if you have the 10.25 Ring gear. Good luck and hope this helps.

There are 4 bolts for each rear axle. They are located behind the rear brake drums. Remove e-brake cable from rear drum and take off brake line.(carefully). I recomend draining and changing your rear differential fluid too, because if the fluid by run out of axle housing. also you should replace the seals for the axles of if you are changing the bearings. When you are done don't forget to bleed your brakes, and hooking up e-brake cable. I hope this answers your question.

Definitely replace both axle seals at the same time. It will save you time and money in the long run. When the axles are out be sure check for wear on the axles where the bearings make contact.

You are correct, it's not brake fluid. Check the level in your rear axle, it sounds like you have bad seals in the axles allowing the rear differential gear oil to leak inside the brake drums.
This is a heavy weight oil, 80 or 90 weight. This leakage will ruin your brake pads, and if enough leaks out, your rear differential will blow. The seals aren't expensive, but it's a lot of labor to pull everything apart to get at the seals, plus new rear brakes. My Ford ( and I'm sure your GMC) require removal of the rear axles to change the seals. Good Luck! countrycurt0