Question about Chevrolet Equinox

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My 2006 Chevy Equinox has problem with ABS and Traction control lights on, and as vehicle brakes to a stop, the ABS kicks in and the vehicle does not brake - sometimes scary as you nearly rear-end the person in front of you. The diagnostic tester indicates front left wheel bearing - always. But the gargae has replaced both front wheel bearings (with speed sensors) twice each. Also, the ABS control module was replaced, and the struts were replace, and we rotated the tires. All of this over about 7 trips to the garage over the last 5 months as the problem would disappear, only to reappear a couple weeks later. The problem returns intermittently, and gets progressively worse over the course of a couple weeks, until the ABS and TC lights are on 100% of the time. I think that somehow, just disassembling everything and re-assembling did more than any of the actual parts replacements to temporarily relieve the problem. I see this problem is described all over many Web sites on the Internet, but nobody seems to grasp the that this is a problem that is not easily fixed - and the usual answer is "check speed sensor". This problem seems so widespread on the Internet, even affecting the older Blazer, that I can't believe GM hasn't addressed it and at least figured out why and how to fix it - at least not that I can find. Does anybody know more

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  • lduvall000 Oct 10, 2010

    That doesn't explain why the problem disappears for a couple weeks after each supposed fix that we did. Then it re-appeared gradually, getting progressively worse over a couple week period, until it was as bad as it ever was before the 'fix'. That is not the behavior of a wiring problem.

  • lduvall000 Oct 10, 2010

    I understand your logic about it being the only thing left, and I'll probably have to try it if only to rule it out like I've now done with every other possible part. But a visual inspection showed no issue with the wiring.



    As for the wire getting back together, and then failing, what I meant was that it always seemed to be ok for a week or so after one of the repairs. Then it would fail intermittently, and rarely at first. Then it would fail more frequently as time went on until it is failed 100% of the time. Once it gets to that point, it stays there - 100% of the time failed. the way it fails is so predictable and over the same time period every time. That is not how a corroded wire would act 6 or 7 times as we replaced parts over the past 5 months. You would think that it would just fail and stay failed - at least sometimes. A bad connection wouldn't be so predictable.



    I guess I was looking for something new. Something I hadn't thought of. Something out of left field - like mismatched tire tread can lead to an error code that points to the front left hub, or something goofy like that.

  • lduvall000 Oct 10, 2010

    I keep trying to explain - the problem is only intermittent while it is failing. It gets less and less intermittent over a two week period until it is failed 100% of the time - which is not intermittent at all. That is why I keep trying the explain why it diesn't act like a traditional wire problem. If you are correct, then I would be able to test the wire once it is in a failed state - because it is never intermittent once it fails. Unless I replace a part - then it is perfectly fine for two weeks. Then the process starts over. See why it is so different? Thanks for your help

  • lduvall000 Oct 10, 2010

    Thank you for your input. It makes a lot of sense. I will take the advice i have gotten on this site and replace the connectors/harness. I appreciate the time and thought that both responders put into my question.

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Hello! Since the fault is affected by disassembling then re-assembling I strongly suspect a faulty connector...A loose or bent pin, poor crimp, broken wire inside it's sheath or harness that is damaged by a tight bend...The wiring involved are cable runs from the speed sensors to the Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)...This is a very difficult fault to locate...Since it is occurring on many vehicles, It more than likely is a harness that is to tight; Especially around a solid object...A visual inspection of the involved harness run especially at connection points should be done...The speed sensor connectors at the wheel hubs (especially the front) are the most suspect...I would replace all four connectors...Here is a picture of the connector...AC Delco part # PT786...Cost $25

My 2006 Chevy Equinox has - 680bc22.jpg

At the EBCM a 30 pin connector receives sensor signals on pins 1,3,4,5,6,7,8, and 9...

Look for loose pins, poor crimps, or damaged wires...Guru....Saailer

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

  • David Burbee
    David Burbee Oct 10, 2010

    Hello! Additional comment...When you disconnect a connector the cable harness is pulled, or manipulated to some degree...And it's "memory"(physical location) is changed...Once reconnected, It will eventually return to it's original position due to the rigors of driving...If a fault is in that cable run it will return over time...This is a classic "affected by time" problem...This is why I suspect the speed sensor connectors at the wheel hub...With the front most suspect...Inspect those front connectors and cable runs...Solder splicing in new connectors up front is an inexpensive fix (approx. $50)...

    Saailer

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***MUST READ FOR EQUINOX ABS SENSOR ISSUES***
Most mechanics do not think this far a head as the problem can be caused multiple things.
The most common is the wheel bearings wear out causing the break sensor to touch the hub causing the sensor to error out.
If it happens to one bearing the rest are going to be bad soon. So fix them all.
The good thing is the fix is relatively easy. The bad thing is the parts are a little pricey.
You'll have to replace all the wheel hubs to fix the problem.
Here is another part that also requires attention and repairs to fix the ABS errors. If any of the other parts in the suspension are worn it will affect the rotation of the wheel and sensors, mostly when breaking. Example: if the front struts are worn out or have lost the gas charge the wheel will have some "chatter" when breaking. It may not be noticeable to the driver or you may not feel it in the steering wheel. However, the wheel sensor picks this up as loss of traction. So, if you replaced the hubs and you are still having the same issue, replacing the struts along with the wheel hub could fix the problem. Have your mechanic look at the rest of the suspension parts to ensure there are not any issues.
Another benefit to repairing the worn suspension parts is your vehicle will drive nicer and will be much safer to drive.
As you were told when you were a kid, "pay attention

Posted on Jul 05, 2014

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Since the sensor and module were replaced that means that the only thing left is the wires from the sensor to the module

seen multiple failures here do to road damage

the "official" fix is to replace the front harness but that is expensive

what I would do is to overlay the wires from the sensor to the module

Sean

Posted on Oct 10, 2010

  • Sean Reisdorf
    Sean Reisdorf Oct 10, 2010

    sure it does... if its a wire a problem and you touched the wires to make the repair then the concern is gone

    it is not difficult to understand further because 2 of the three parts have already been replaced

    Wires are fickle and "shorts" are why I make the money I do as a driveability technician because most techs cannot THINK of anything else but replacing parts





  • Sean Reisdorf
    Sean Reisdorf Oct 10, 2010

    To test, you need to load test the circuit since the inspection you did is just a visual
    unless you x-ray the wire you cannot tell what is going on inside

    however, since the concern is so intermittent and everything has already been replaced doing anything other than replacing the wires from the sensor to the module trying to load test the wires would likely provide vague results

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