Question about 1989 Jeep Wrangler
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Could be a couple of different things.
1) your clutch master has a plugged pressure bypass, and it is sending excessive pressure to the slave and blowing it out.
2) The clutch throw out arm is bound, and will not allow the slave to compress it.
3) The replacement slave was defective.
What was the reason for replacing the slave in the first place?
Posted on Jul 31, 2008
SOURCE: Bleeding clutch slave cylinder
i think youre doing the right thing. they are very stubborn to bleed because the hyd. line goes up high across back of engine before droppiing back down to slave cyl., trapping air. could try to gravity bleed by opening bleeder at slave, cap off of master cyl, full with fluid then it may start to come out after a bit. then try your process again. or can try to bleed at connections further up the line, working your way back to bleeder. hope this helps. be patient.
Posted on Nov 15, 2008
The clutch slave cylinder on this model is located inside the transmission bell housing. You would have to pull the tranny to see it.
Bleeding the slave cylinder is a fairly simple process.
Underneath the vehicle on the driver side you will see two hydraulic lines going into the transmission where the tranny connects to the engine. If you have trouble locating just follow the hydraulic line from the master cylinder on the firewall.
One of these lines is actually sticking out of the tranny and has a bleeder valve on the end.
You will need a 9/16 box end wrench and a 5/16 or 1/4 inch box end wrench and someone with you to press the clutch pedal while you are under the vehicle.
1. Top off the master cylinder with clean brake fluid. Also, MAKE SURE you keep the fluid level in the master cylinder topped off during this process. You may need to have a second helper to take care of this so you don't have to keep climbing out from underneath.
2.Hold the line with the 9/16 and loosen the bleeder valve a couple turns or until fluid begins to drain. Have someone SLOWLY depress the clutch pedal to the floor and hold it down to the floor until you tighten the bleeder valve back up. MAKE SURE YOU ARE OUT OF THE WAY OF THE SQUIRTING FLUID WHEN THE PEDAL IS DEPRESSED!!
3. Once you are sure the valve is tight, have them pump the clutch pedal a couple times . Repeat step two until the pedal has a full stroke.
Posted on Jan 23, 2009
If your jeep is high enough without using jack stands, crawl under the vehicle, and on the left hand side of the clutch housing is the valve, or bleeder screw.If there is a dust cap over the screw, remove it, get a jar and a small clear plastic hose, put about 1 inch of break fluid ( that's what it uses) in the jar, slip the hose over the bleeder and the other end in the jar, Have an assistant depress the clutch pedal and hold it down. Open the bleeder screw allowing the fluid to flow. Close the bleeder when the fluid stops flowing, when closed, release the pedal, do this until all air and old fluid is out of the system. Make sure the resevoir stays full.If your model has the externally mounted release cylinder, I don't have the procedure for that, a friend is borrowing my manual.
Posted on Mar 13, 2009
If you have had the flywheel cut, have a clutch with a different release height (different finger or diaphram design & height) or a remanufactured pressure plate, or all of the above, you may run into this problem.
Small differences there translate to a large difference at the pedal. On linkage type designs, there were several options including longer/shorter throwout bearing or adjustable fork pivot ball. Hydraulic systems should compensate somewhat, but if you are beyond the travel of the slave cyl, I'm not sure there is anything you can do from the outside. I would check that there are no air leaks. If you have an external slave cylinder you may be able to make a slightly longer rod that connects the slave to the clutch fork. I really can't think of anything else to do at this point.
Hope this helps a bit.
Posted on Apr 19, 2009
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