Question about 1987 Ford F 150

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1987 F150 Spongy Brake Pedal

I have replaced the booster and master cylinder and bleed 3 of 4 lines. What could it possibly be? I also noticed that my right side front brake pads were worn considerably more than the left side.

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CHANGE THE PROPORTIONING VALVE. IT IS BAD. THE PRICE IS 345.00 AT FORD. WHEN YOU DO YOUR BRAKES MAKE SURE THAT YOU OPEN ALL YOUR BLEEDER ON ALL BRAKES

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

Booster Vacuum check valve, but more likely not bled correctly and completely.

Posted on Aug 19, 2008

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Try checking the caliper on the side that's wearing down faster. Make sure the caliper seal where the cup is does not have any damage. But it might be due to the fact that you only bled 3 out of 4 lines. Good Luck And PEACE

Posted on Jun 13, 2008

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Step by step instructions for replacing brake booster on a 1999 Toyota Camry


its my pleasure to answer your question how to replace the brake booster :
1 With the engine off, step on the brake pedal several times to relieve the brake booster of vacuum.
2 Press the brake pedal down and start the engine. Verify that the brake pedal sinks slightly. Turn off engine.
3 Remove the vacuum hose from the brake booster.
4 Remove the brake lines from the master cylinder. Remove the master cylinder from the brake booster. Plug the fittings to prevent brake fluid seepage.
5 Disconnect the brake pedal from the push rod.
6 Have an assistant hold the brake booster from inside the engine compartment. Remove the nuts that hold the brake booster to the firewall. These nuts are usually located under the dash on the interior of the firewall.
7 Remove the brake booster.
8 Install the new brake booster to the firewall. Tighten the mounting nuts.
9 Connect the push rod to the brake pedal.
10 Connect the vacuum hose to the brake booster.
11 Attach the master cylinder to the new brake booster and reconnect the brake lines.
.12 Bleed the brakes at the master cylinder.

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Toyota 4 runner brake booster noise


if you can see brake fluid around the booster then yes it is most definitely not right, but sometimes these can fail without any fluid noticable, the visible fluid could mean that the brake master cylinder is failing & this will have an adverse affect on the booster power & performance, check your brake master cylinder first as this is a much simpler & easier repair than the brake booster & can be done at home on a flat drive or or street even, a Haynes manual is invaluable for the home mechanic & i recommend you get one as soon as you can as this will help you diagnose the problems with your vehicle before going to a mechanic/garage, if it is the brake booster at fault then i suggest you go to your local scrapper/breakers yard armed with tools & the Haynes/Chilton's Manual (Depending on which side of the pond you are from) & remove the brake booster from a now deceased Toyota 4Runner & remove the brake booster & master cylinder in one should only cost you a few Quid or Bucks & replace the part once your vehicle is back at home, once the parts have been replaced the brake system will need to be bled so that there is no air in the brake lines, this can be easily done with two people at home, Jack up one corner, remove that wheel & then just crack off the bleed nipple of the brake line Putting a bit of clear hose over the nipple to catch the excess brake fluid in a jug etc & have a friend push down slowly on the pedal, when only fluid comes out with no air then the system is bled for that wheel, Check the level in the brake master cylinder & repeat the process for the other 3 corners/wheels Once done your brake pedal should fell firm & Not spongy, If you get a spongy feeling when braking after this then there is still air in the brake lines & the system needs to be bled again, of course if you have done it right then your brakes should feel firm underfoot. Please don't forget to rate me, regards, Paul.

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My brake pedal is spongy, what would cause that? fluid level is good


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All of a sudden i have spongy brakes on my 92 f 250. changed master cyl and booster. and rubber brake hoses. still spongy and nothing is leaking.brakes went from being good to spongy in one...


Check the rear wheel cylinders? Was anything leaking at the master cylinder? Does it have ABS?
Check the front caliper slides are free. Check the front caliper pistons for leaks as well. This is all assuming you bled the brakes(all 4 wheels) properly after all that replacement! You're getting air from somewhere for sure or if it has ABS, the pump may have a problem.

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No Brakes, changed Booster, thought it was air in the lines. When bleeding no fluid coming out of front right and back brake bleeder valves. Checked rubber line, is ok. Clogged somewhere in the line. Have...


Is the master cylinder good? a bad master can cause this also did you bleed the master first before bleeding at the wheel and also make sure the bleeder screw is clean, if the hose is good then theres only a few things, a bad master or a master that wasnt bleed, try bleeding the master first then try rebleeding the brakes.

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My 94 c1500 has very spongy brakes.I have replaced brake booster,master cylinder,porportion valve and both rear wheel cylinders.brake pedal will get firm when applied too bleed brakes but not much fluid...


You still have air in the system. You will have to bleed more. I had to bleed a quart of brake fluid out of each wheel to get good brakes on my 1996 GMC.

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1 Answer

Spongy brake pedal


could be the master but NOT the booster
the booster increases pedal effort and when it goes you have a HARD pedal

...go to your parts store and ask for a brake booster bleeder kit and bench bleed the master on the car...if the pedal is still spongy then YES its the master

However, more often than not, a vehicle with ABS this year, that had the pistons pushed in during service suffer from ab HSU failure'

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