Question about 1995 Ford F350

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Any advice on tackling changing steering column bushings to take slop out of steering wheel (in 360 degrees!)? Also, I tried to pull steering wheel with puller and bolts pulled threads out. I tried to tap 3/8 NC and it pulled out to. Wondering if I drilled fresh holes and tried or if there are any tricks. Thanks.

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  • Ford Master
  • 6,826 Answers

If thread pull out and the steering wheel does not pull out then there is definitely a challenge ahead.

Maybe use helicoil system to drill out the holes and install helicoil spring so that the threads may be restored. I'm not sure if it will work on this application though because of the lack of space behind the plate.

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Steering Wheel REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Without Air Bag EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MODELS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS MODELS Fig. 1: Remove the screws from behind the wheel - F-150 model without air bag Any advice on tackling changing - 88288p12.jpg
Fig. 2: Pull away the cover with the wiring still connected 88288p13.jpg
Fig. 3: Disconnect the wiring at the steering wheAny advice on tackling changing - 88288p14.jpgc="http://i.fixya.net/uploads/images/88288p14.jpg" alt="88288p14.jpg" class="h_mi" />
Any advice on tackling changing - 88288p15.jpghmark the steering wheel 88288p15.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a steering wheel puller to remove the wheel 88288p17.jpg
Fig. 7: Remove the steering wheelAny advice on tackling changing - 84928058.gifaft 88288p18.jpg
Fig. 8: Correct steering wheel installation 84928058.gif
NOTE: The factory recommends that the front wheels be set in the straight-ahead position and you paint or make chalk marks on the column and steering wheel hub for alignment purposes during installation. Of these two safeguards, it is more important to mark the column so even if the column is moved slightly, the steering wheel can still be repositioned in its original position.

  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the one screw from the underside of each steering wheel spoke, and lift the horn switch assembly (steering wheel pad) from the steering wheel. On vehicles equipped with the sport steering wheel option, pry the button cover off with a suitable prytool.
  3. Disconnect the horn switch wires at the connector and remove the switch assembly. On trucks equipped with speed control, squeeze the J-clip ground wire terminal firmly and pull it out of the hole in the steering wheel. Don't pull the wire out without squeezing the clip.
  4. Remove the horn switch assembly.
  5. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller. WARNING
    Never hammer on the wheel or shaft to remove it! Never use a knock-off type puller.
  6. Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the shaft nut to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS MODELS
  1. Set the front wheel in the straight-ahead position and make chalk marks on the column and steering wheel hub for alignment purposes during installation.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Remove the one screw from the underside of each steering wheel spoke, and lift the horn switch assembly (steering wheel pad) from the steering wheel.
  4. Disconnect the horn switch wires at the connector and remove the switch assembly.
  5. Remove the horn switch assembly.
  6. Remove the steering wheel retaining nut and remove the steering wheel with a puller. WARNING
    Never hammer on the wheel or shaft to remove it! Never use a knock-off type puller.
  7. Install the steering wheel in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the shaft nut to 30-42 ft. lbAny advice on tackling changing - 88288g00.gif).
With Air Bag Fig. 9: Remove the air bag module and disconnect the wiring harnesses 88288g00.gif
CAUTION
Read the air bag service precautions in Section 6 prior to doing work involving an air bag equipped steering column component. Always wear safety glasses when servicing an air bag vehicle and handling the air bag to avoid possible injury.
  1. Turn the front wheels to the straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the battery-to-starter relay cable for at least one minute to let the air bag back-up power supply discharge.
  3. Remove the air bag module from the steering wheel (refer to Section 6).
  4. Disconnect the horn/speed control wiring from the steering wheel.
  5. Remove the steering wheel retaining bolt.
  6. Install the Differential Bearing Cone Remover/Replacer, No. T77F-4220B1, or equivalent, and remove the steering wheel. Route the contact assembly harnesses through the steering wheel as it is lifted off of the shaft. To install: NOTE: Make sure the front wheels are still in the straight-ahead position prior to installation.
  7. Route the air bag sliding contact wiring through the steering wheel at the 3 o'clock position. Position the steering wheel on the shaft an align the marks. Make sure not to pinch the contact wire. WARNING
    Make sure no air gets trapped between the steering wheel and air bag sliding contact.
  8. Install a new steering wheel retaining bolt, then tighten to 23-33 ft. lbs. (31-45 Nm).
  9. Connect the horn/speed control wiring and clip in place. Connect the air bag wire harness. Tighten the module retaining nuts to 35-53 inch lbs. (4-6 Nm). NOTE: When the battery cable has been disconnected, then reconnected, some abnormal driving symptoms may occur for the first 10 miles (16 km) until the PCM re-learns iAny advice on tackling changing - prev.gifve strategy.
  10. Connect the battery to starter cable. Verify the air bag warning indicator lAny advice on tackling changing - next.gifthe instrument panel.
prev.gif next.gif

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

  • Duane Wong
    Duane Wong Oct 08, 2010

    Steering Linkage


    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION







    Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150







    Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350







    Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab



    Pitman Arm

    EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS


    1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
    3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
    4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
    5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
    6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.

    F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS


    1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
    2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
    3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
    4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft.
      To install:

    5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
    6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
    7. Connect the drag link.

    Tie Rod and Drag Link

    EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE


    1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
    3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
    4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
    5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
    6. Have the front end alignment checked.

    RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE


    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
    4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
    5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster.
      To install:

    6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
    7. Have the front end alignment checked.

    Connecting Rod

    RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE


    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
    3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
    4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
    5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
    6. Have the front end alignment checked.

    Tie Rod Ends

    RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE






    Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud







    Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud







    Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm







    Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end







    Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal







    Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end



    1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
    2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
    3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover.
      NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.


    4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve.
      To install:

    5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
    6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
    7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
    8. Have the front end alignment checked.


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