Question about 1998 Jeep Cherokee

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My alternater will be fine then it drops off to 9 volts. I have had my alternater bench checked and they say it's good so i replaced my battery. all cables and connections are good but it only works intermittently

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If it tested good during a bench test, and the problem was intermittent, the test was not done long enough to simulate the problem with voltage output. Replace the alternator.

Posted on Oct 09, 2010

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1 Answer

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Sounds like your alternater, get a multimeter set it to volts start the car then check the battery is getting 14 or over volts from the alternater to the battery , if your getting less than that it's not putting enough volts back to the battery to run the car with good luck colin

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1998 isuzu trooper need wiring diagram for charging system with a3.5 li5ter motor


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Check main 80 amp fuse in engine compartment and also check fuses in inside fuse box, there two in that one. first is engine fuse 15amp and the 10amp gauge fuse,

Here is the wiring diagram for the charging system as you asked for , also check connections, follow battery wire off the back of alternator make sure connections are good , that wire runs to engine fuse box and that is one fuse that i said to check it is 80amp, hope this is helpful good day9_30_2012_10_15_05_pm.gif

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How do I check if it is alternater or battery


if wont jump battery has internal short and is bad replace with good battery get cheap ohm meter to test alternator out put. install battery ck voltage start engine ck voltage should rear 13-14 volts if not charging will read battery voltage with steady voltage drop. running with neg. cable unhooked can cause damage from voltage spike.

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First make sure you can turn engine over with a socket and that it is not seized. Second if engine checks out fine does the starter just click with the ignition key? If it does perform what is called a voltage drop test on the starter cables. Connect a volt meter on each end of the cable you are testing you should read no more that a half a volt drop when loading the circuit. If cables check out fine pull the starter and have it bench tested at an auto parts store. But be carefull bench testing can show a starter is ok with out putting a load on it, if it still shows good on the bench you still may need to replace it. If you don't get a click with the key check for 12 volts at the starter connector unplugged, if no trace starter wire noting color code back through the starter safety switch back to the ignition switch.

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Have a 2004 saab aero 9-3. Recently battery died. It was shorted. But 6 years old. Replaced battery. Now often when trying to start, makes one loud click and won't start. Displays flicker and/or go black,...


I was having the same problem with my 2004 9-3. I assumed the starter was bad and replaced it. I then charged the battery and found it wouldn't fully charge. After charging for several hours when I removed the charger I only showed 11 volts at battery posts. The new battery tested 12.8 volts and the car started well. With the car idling I tested and showed 14.6 volts at the battery post which confirmed my alternator was charging.

I do believe I replaced the starter in error and that it was just a bad battery. When my battery was failing I had dim headlights and flashing displays that you described and the clicking noises also. When I put jumper cables on my saab and let the bad battery charge for several minutes the car would start right up and the headlights would brighten up and even though the battery was bad the idle voltage at the battery posts was increased to 14.6 volts coming from the alternator.

Remember to remove the jumper cables quickly once the car starts to avoid possible electrical problems.

I have had bad starters in other vehicles that would draw a huge load on the battery and jump starting them would sometimes give enough voltage to turn the engine over and start it.

Bench tests aren't always correct because the components aren't under a true load. I had a brand new alternator fresh out of the box last year that was bad and wouldn't put out good voltage even though it bench tested perfect. Go figure.

Check your battery voltage with the engine off. It should read over 12 volts if its charged.

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1 Answer

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With the fuse in,and the engine off,start pulling ,relays,one,at a time,the relay that you pull that drops the voltage will be the one that is stuck,this fuse controls the ignition relay.This relay is stuck,and needs to be replaced,by the way,try unplugging the alternator to see if the voltage drops also,cause the 13.5 voltage that was tested on this alternator concerns me,this is not good,really should be 14.25 when bench tested,on the vehicle,with everything on,headlights and ac on high blower motor setting,it should read 13.65 volts,to 14.25 volts at the battery.Now on the bench,it should have read closer to 14.25 volts.If it is any lower than this range,the alternator is not working correctly.If this was at all helpful,please rate,and thank you.

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Check the votage of the battery with a volt tester in the DC mode and the probes reversed ( black on red red on black) if a reading of voltages shows of any amount, the diode is bad in the altenator

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2 Answers

When i turn on the heater/defrost, my voltmetet drops well below 12, usually around 9 volts if i have the headlights on. i recently replaced the alternator. The problem existed before the alternator...


it is very possible that your alternater has a bad ground or your belt is to loose put a new ground on the alternater and tighten or replace the belt if its loose tht should do it also your regulater might be bad check that.

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1 Answer

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