I own a 2002 Ranger 4 cylinder with only 62,000 miles on it. After replacing the thermostat housing unit and having issues with a radiator leak that would not stop my mechanic noticed a very small hole behind the water jacket which after running his hand in the area he discovered the leak became the size of his finger. A hole rotted through the block behind the thermostat.
Please tell me how a truck with only 62,000 miles on it which is faithfully maintained can have a rotted block.
Personally I think this is a Ford problem and not mine. I am in search of other unhappy ranger owners that had a similar problem. Seems like I can't have the only bad apple in the basket!
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Re: Rotted Engine Block
Well knowing engine blocks this sounds like an inperfection in the block when i came out of the molding process of the manuafacture these blocks should be able to take a quite a bit
like an air bubble or piece of **** metal in the block from manuacfacture this you should really bring to dealers attention they should uphold the hundred thousand mile warranty on the mecanicalbility of engine if they dont i would go to attorney general and ask for advice seeing that this is a manufactures problem
the other is over tightening of bolts in which cracked the block
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Follow the top radiator hose down to where it connects to the engine. You should find a dome shape item or a couple of smaller bolts that attach to the engine to the side of the radiator hose and the thermostat will be inside the housing. You will need to drain the radiator, remove the bolts holding the thermostat housing to the engine and remove the old stat and put in a new one be sure to make note of how the stat is facing when you remove it and put the new one in the same way. then reconnect the thermostat housing making sure the gasket is in place so it won't leak, then refill the radiator slowly so you don't cause an air lock in the radiator, with cap still off start the engine and allow it to warm up until the stat opens and then you will need to add more antifreeze to the system. Double check for any leaks. Turn on the heater and make sure you have good heat and you should be good
JUST DRAIN COOLANT LEVEL BELOW THE THERMOSTAT. CATCH COOLANT IN A DRAIN PAN UNDER RADIATOR.THEN REMOVE RADIATOR HOSE FROM THERMOSTAT HOUSING ON THE CYLINDER BLOCK.THEN REMOVE THERMOSTAT HOUSING AND THERMOSTAT.CLEAN THERMOSTAT HOUSING SURFACE AND THERMOSTAT HOUSING SEALING SURFACE ON CYLINDER HEAD.INSTALL NEW THERMOSTAT IN PLACE,MAKE SURE THERMOSTAT AIR BLEED HOLE FACING LEFT SIDE UPWARD ON THE ENGINE.SOME THERMOSTAT HAS TOP STAMPED ON IT.MEANING MUST BE FACING UP.WHEN THERMOSTAT IN PLACE.TAKE NEW THERMOSTAT GASKET.PUT SEALER ON BOTH SIDES OF GASKET.THEN.PUT GASKET ON THERMOSTAT HOUSING.THEN PUT HOUSING IN PLACE TORQUE HOUSING BOLTS 16 - 20 FT LBS.WAIT 1 HOUR UNTIL GASKET SEALER CURE.THEN FILL UP COOLANT SYSTEM.BLEED COOLANT SYSTEM AND CHECK FOR LEAKS.
The upper radiator hose is connected between the upper radiator and the thermostat housing. Drain the coolant then remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing, replace if necessary. Remove anything blocking access to the two bolts holding the housing to the engine such as the belt cover. Pay attention to the orientation of the thermostat so you install the new one correctly. If the housing is corroded or pitted you have have to replace it or suffer leaks. Push a rag into the engine opening now exposed and clean the contact surface well so it won't leak later. Installation is the reverse of the process.
Just did this today on my 2000 4 cyl. It was a pain.
First off drain the radiator. There is a piece that sticks out at the bottom on the radiator on the drivers side. Put a large container under it and unscrew the white-ish plastic bolt to release the fluid. Make sure the radiator cap is opened to let it drain quicker. Then remove the top hose. The thermostat housing is at the end of the radiator hose on the engine. There is a bolt on the upper right, right up against the belt shroud for the camshaft. There is one more under the housing to the left. You pretty much have to feel for it. There is not much space to work with so I removed the fan (4 bolts) wiggle it off. To remove the fan you also have to remove the shroud to get it off. No problem just two bolts. This should give you plenty of room to work with. Then remove the housing and exchange parts. Replace the gasket (its a small rubber o ring. Mine looked fine so I left it, but I did put a bead of silicon around it just in case. Reverse the steps and add fluid back to the system.
the open pipe that you took the hose off of is the thermostat housing, you will need to remove this to reveal the thermostat, make sure you use a new gasket with sealant when reinstalling thermostat housing to prevent leaks and dont over tighten the bolts,run both bolts down as far as you can before final tightning