Question about 2002 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

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Rotted Engine Block

I own a 2002 Ranger 4 cylinder with only 62,000 miles on it. After replacing the thermostat housing unit and having issues with a radiator leak that would not stop my mechanic noticed a very small hole behind the water jacket which after running his hand in the area he discovered the leak became the size of his finger. A hole rotted through the block behind the thermostat.
Please tell me how a truck with only 62,000 miles on it which is faithfully maintained can have a rotted block.
Personally I think this is a Ford problem and not mine. I am in search of other unhappy ranger owners that had a similar problem. Seems like I can't have the only bad apple in the basket!

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  • Ranger 2002 May 29, 2008

    The mechanic didn't over tighten the bolts. This is definately a Ford issue. The block is literally rotted behind the water jacket.

  • Ranger 2002 Jun 12, 2008

    We trailered our ranger to a ford dealer. Upon inspection from a certified Ford Mechanic it was determined that "yes" we were correct. Our block was in fact "rotted". Ford chooses to do nothing about it. No Good Will Assistance--NOTHING- but leave us holding the bag on this one.

    Nothing was over-tightened.This is a defective engine block.

    I have requested paper work from the attorney general's office in order to file a complaint against Ford Motor Co.

    After spending much time on the computer I have also found documentation of other Ford Rangers w/2.3 with the same exact problem right around the same mileage so this is in fact a Ford issue!!!

    ALL Ford Ranger owners around the 2002 year--BUYER BEWARE!

  • bobbondo Oct 29, 2008

    i had the exact same problem on my 2002 4cyl ranger in the same spot of the block. Mine gave out 38 months after i bought it brand new with only 23,000 miles on it . I was past the 36 month warr and they said too bad!

    I bithched and moaned for a few days and they agreed to fix it for $800

    the put a rebuilt top half on it. when i left the deale the check engine light came on. they said it was unrelated some sort of sensor and charged me $300 to fix that. now some pipe that goes to the heater is rotted and will cost $1000 to fix , i've got 43,000 on this lemon. what recourse do we have?

  • eyedontget1t Nov 19, 2008

    I also have a 2002 Ford Ranger 4 cyl. 2.3 liter. Back in 2005 it overheated and had to be towed to the dealer. Dealer told me that because of the newer style of thermostat Ford put on the vehicle (I now think they were referring to the thermostat housing), electrolysis had occurred and rotted out the block. The truck was still under warranty so they did a "short block" replacement and put in a block with zinc rods in it that would counteract the electrolysis. This is what I was told anyway. Truck still acted a little funky - the temperature gauge would spike intermittently getting on a highway forcing me to slow down until the gauge went down and then it would be ok. That hasn't happened for quite a while. But today I noticed that I have no heat, leading me to believe that the thermostat is stuck open. I hope it's not happening all over again but I wanted to chime in on an issue that is clearly Ford's fault. Back when it happened to me I found absolutely nothing on the web about it.

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  • Ford Master
  • 1,224 Answers

Well knowing engine blocks this sounds like an inperfection in the block when i came out of the molding process of the manuafacture these blocks should be able to take a quite a bit
like an air bubble or piece of **** metal in the block from manuacfacture this you should really bring to dealers attention they should uphold the hundred thousand mile warranty on the mecanicalbility of engine if they dont i would go to attorney general and ask for advice seeing that this is a manufactures problem
the other is over tightening of bolts in which cracked the block

Posted on May 29, 2008

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I am having difficulty locating it. I need to know how to locate and replace a thermostat on a 2002 ford escape


Follow the top radiator hose down to where it connects to the engine. You should find a dome shape item or a couple of smaller bolts that attach to the engine to the side of the radiator hose and the thermostat will be inside the housing. You will need to drain the radiator, remove the bolts holding the thermostat housing to the engine and remove the old stat and put in a new one be sure to make note of how the stat is facing when you remove it and put the new one in the same way. then reconnect the thermostat housing making sure the gasket is in place so it won't leak, then refill the radiator slowly so you don't cause an air lock in the radiator, with cap still off start the engine and allow it to warm up until the stat opens and then you will need to add more antifreeze to the system. Double check for any leaks. Turn on the heater and make sure you have good heat and you should be good

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Where is the thermostat located


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Fig. The location of the thermostat and its housing on the 3.7L engine

  1. Disconnect negative battery cable at battery.
  2. Drain cooling system.
  3. Raise vehicle on hoist.
  4. Remove splash shield.
  5. Remove lower radiator hose clamp and lower radiator hose at thermostat housing.
  6. Remove thermostat housing mounting bolts, thermostat housing and thermostat .
To install:
  1. Clean mating areas of timing chain cover and thermostat housing.
  2. Install thermostat (spring side down) into recessed machined groove on housing assembly. Make sure rubber seal locating tab is positioned in the corresponding notch in the housing.
  3. Position thermostat housing on timing chain cover.
  4. Install two housing-to-timing chain cover bolts. Tighten bolts to 105 inch lbs. (12 Nm) torque.
  5. Install lower radiator hose on thermostat housing.
  6. Install splash shield.
  7. Lower vehicle.
  8. Fill cooling system.
  9. Connect negative battery cable to battery.
  10. Start and warm the engine. Check for leaks.

Hope helps (remember rated and comment this).

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follow the hose that comes from the top of the radiator to the motor, take off the hose from the housing and remove housing behind that is your thermostat

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The upper radiator hose is connected between the upper radiator and the thermostat housing. Drain the coolant then remove the upper radiator hose from the thermostat housing, replace if necessary. Remove anything blocking access to the two bolts holding the housing to the engine such as the belt cover. Pay attention to the orientation of the thermostat so you install the new one correctly. If the housing is corroded or pitted you have have to replace it or suffer leaks. Push a rag into the engine opening now exposed and clean the contact surface well so it won't leak later. Installation is the reverse of the process.

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It starts to overheat after driving a few miles. Besides replacing the thermostat what could the problem be?


Could be...
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Every 30 days or 1000 miles my coolant disappears I don't see a leak under the car.


There are four problem spots that you should check the address this issue. replace one or all the below components that fail the inspection.


CHECK LIST--

1. Check the Head Gasket(s). Check for leaking or damaged head gaskets. if you are seeing any white smoke coming from the tail pipe, this will be a sign for coolant leaks inside the engine.

2. Check the intake manifold gasket(s). Check the gasket for damage and worn corners as well.

3. Check the water pump. Make sure that the water pump is functioning properly and, make sure there are no leaks around the housing.

4. Check the Engine Cylinder Block for ware or scorn cylinder block.

5. flush the radiator to check for sludge build up as well. replace the radiator if metal fragments are noticed during the flushing procedure.

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