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How to remove drivers side rear rotor? Cannot get it off..help

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  • Mercury Master
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First, if you have the wheel up and the other tires chocked it is sometimes necessary to turn the rear wheel. You will probably need to disconnect the Battery and put the Trans in Neutral. The backing plate of the wheel has a Rubber cover which hides the Star adjustment wheel for the Emergency brake shoes.

You want to loosen the Star wheel to draw in the Ebrake shoes. Since you are able to turn the Rotor in Neutral, you will know if you have loosened it enough to come off.

If the Rotor still will not come off, put penetrating oil on the studs and the center circle where the rotor meets the axle hub. If you know the rotor is tore up you don't have to be gentle in beating it off. Check your parts prices, a new part may only cost a little more than turning the old rotor.

Let gravity work for you in getting the oil into the hub. Oil the 12 O'clock stud, turn it to the next stud, repeat. Same for the center of the rotor. then hit the rotor between the center and the stud holes.

When you put on the new rotor, put an Antiseize product on the hub. If you ever need to remove the rotor again, it will be much easier to get off. I live in the Rustbelt, this method works.

Posted on Oct 08, 2010

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I got the rear drivers side rotor removed but I

check that e brake part is not stuck stoping u

Posted on Mar 05, 2011

  • 651 Answers

SOURCE: remove rear brake rotors

rap it with a rubber mallet.

Posted on Jan 06, 2009

  • 52 Answers

SOURCE: rear brakes (driver-side) squeal after replacing rotors and pads

you need to grease the metal clips at the top and bottom of the pads (dont get grease on the rotor or pad though) and also spray some "disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads. it comes in a red can and the spray that comes out is like sticky red paint. do those 2 things and the squeals will be gone.

Posted on May 30, 2009

  • 5520 Answers

SOURCE: cannot get the rear rotor

Yes it can affect removal. You may need to rachet the starwheel down to clear any grooving inside the Ebrake drum. Then try to loosen the Ebrake cables. If you have a threaded adjuster on the cable try to loosen it. Or try pulling slack from the underdash brake assembly where it comes out to join the main cable.

I sometimes have to use a visegrip plier and clamp what I have wrestled from the inside of the car. Be sure to use penetrating oil on the studholes and axlehole to free the rust from the rotor.

Posted on Aug 16, 2010

  • 10 Answers

SOURCE: how to get the rear

there should be a gold or silver nut in the hole in the center of the rotor. take that off and the rotor should pull out.

Posted on Nov 20, 2010

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2005 gmc yukon denali rotor removel


Brake rotor and front or rear?

Okay, remove the wheel then remove the brake caliper and move to side do not allow to hang on the brake hose, use a hook to hang off spring or set aside. next remove the caliper bracket, two bolts at rear of bracket to remove it.
next you will use a hammer to remove the rotor.

NOTE: the way the brake rotor was designed was a bad one the hub in which the rotor slides over and the wheel studs slide into holes on the rotor is bad the hub diameter is almost the same size as the diameter of the seat of the rotor that slide over the hub and what happens is sometimes the rust build up on the rotor seat locks the brake rotor on the hub. i do not know if you are reusing the rotors or replacing them, no sure what job you are doing . the rotors to take off you will need to tap on the rear of them with a little force and turn, hit and turn. you will need to see if they break free or if hard beating and spraying into the rear of them is needed with wd40.
Alot of these rotors also have two threaded hole on the face of the rotor near the studs so that you can screw two bolts into holes to help pull them. use wire to tie caliper up and also use a c-clamp to push piston into calipe to remove caliper if needed, Do not remove brake hose, there is no need to open system, here is a picture of the rotor coming of the hub, also there may be clips on the stud holding rotor on remove them use cutters or pry off do not need to reuse , they are to help in holding the rotor on during asm, if you want you can buy them and reinstall them but never reuse them.12_25_2012_5_41_09_pm.png

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Soak it with Liquid Wrench. Rap it all around with a mallet of block of wood, add more Liquid Wrench at the hub on both sides of the rotor, then wait until tomorrow to try again. The Liquid Wrench may work more quickly and effectively if you place a heat lamp near the rotor. Just be sure it isn't so close it damages the paint or plastic on the vehicle body or ignites the Liquid Wrench fluid.

I assume you've already removed all of the hardware that holds the rotor in place.

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May 20, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

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you need to grease the metal clips at the top and bottom of the pads (dont get grease on the rotor or pad though) and also spray some "disc brake quiet" on the back of the pads. it comes in a red can and the spray that comes out is like sticky red paint. do those 2 things and the squeals will be gone.

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My 06 FX35 rear rotors were stuck - no amount of hammering away with a rubber mallet was helping. I read somewhere online about using the caliper mount and a bolt, washers and nuts to pop off the rotor, so I went back to the auto store and picked up a M8 40 mm long bolt and a matching nut, stuck that through the top caliper mounting bolt (where the big 19mm bolt was) and screwed the nut on the other side and started to tighten - as I tightened, the bolt started pushing against the rotor until "POP!" - simple success. 2 hours to get the driver rear rotor replaced, then 30 minutes for the passenger one once I mastered this little process. Be sure e-brake is not an, doesn't matter if the fx is in park or neutral to get the rotors off. This isn't a good idea of you're not replacing the rotor, since it'll likely take on a little damage.

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