Question about Toyota RAV4

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I purchased a Toyota Gaia with a D4 engine. I have problem that the gear shifts are difficult and the vehicle has high vibration while on drive (D). It also revs at a high rate when the engine is started. Please help

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: Vehicle does not want to shift at normal shifting

trans fluid could be low or trans is on the way out

Posted on Aug 19, 2009

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SOURCE: my 2004 chevy tahoe revs really high shifting into different gear

suggest checking the fluids, may be dirty and need a filter change. mine did the same thing untill i did a service on it

Posted on Jan 16, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: transmission will not shift

I am having the same problem in my 2005. Did you ever find a solution? Please let me know because this is really annoying. Thanks

Posted on Sep 08, 2009

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SOURCE: My vw passat B5.5 vibrates when I start the engine even

There are 3 engine mounts that keep the engine steady and transfer the torque to the transmission. One solid mount on the front, and a hydraulic mount on either side of the engine. Worn mounts will cause sloppiness and difficulty in shifting, and noticeable play when pressing and releasing the accelerator.
The front mount, also known as the snub mount, is a rubber or polyurethane bushing that centers the engine in the engine compartment. This is a common wear point, and causes vibrations at idle when misaligned or worn out. Since your car is several years old, it would be a good idea to replace it and is a fairly easy operation (2/5 on the difficulty scale).
The mount should cost around $8-12 for a stock type mount, and around $35-40 for a high-performance polyurethane bushing. The upside of the high performance is that the engine pay is greatly reduced; the downside is that there is more likely to be slight vibration transferred to the engine compartment at idle, which is what you are trying to avoid. Unless you are a "spirited driver", I would suggest that the stock type mount (looking a bit like a mushroom versus a topless cupcake) should be just fine.
If your car is running rough, then you should really look into a tune-up before starting the installation, as adjustment will be difficult is the engine isn't running smoothly. On these cars, new plugs and air filter, as well as vacuuming out the airbox pre-filter of leaves, dirt and bugs can do wonders for a smoother idle. (The next level of sophistication is cleaning the Mass Airflow Unit, but that's a more extended topic.)
Here is the process for installation: Raise up the vehicle on wheel ramps or with a jack and sturdy jack stands. DO NOT EVER WORK UNDER A VEHICLE SUPPORTED BY A JACK, USE THE JACK STANDS. You can get the jack stands for under $30, and your life isn't worth taking a chance. While you are being a good mechanic at the deep end of the gene pool, put on goggles or safety glasses. There is greasy dirt that WILL fall in your face, and it will get in your eyes, believe me it is nasty.
After the car is fully supported, take off the splash shield, which is held on with several quarter-turn screws. You might want to take picks with your phone or digital camera during the whole process to be confident on alignment.
You should have a good flashlight or worklight. While you're under the car, inspect for oil leaks, and peek up at the motor mounts on either side of the engine. If you see an oil dirt at the bottom of these mounts, they are likely worn out and should be replaced. That's a bigger job, probably about $500 at the dealer, $120 at home with the right tools and half or a full day of your time. But you can still replace the snub in the front independently, so don't give up.
There are three bolts on the front lower engine mount at the front of the engine. You can now see the mount protruding into the front rail of the car. Remove these 3 bolts. (Don't worry, they center the engine, they don't hold weight.)
You can now remove the old rubber snub mount. Clean the mounting post, and press on the new snub to the
aluminum engine mount. This may require some force and may be helped with a little silicon grease or soapy water.
Next loosen the four nuts holding the snub basket to the front clip. (Do not remove, but leave hand-tight as these will facilitate adjustment.) You can now reinstall the lower engine bracket onto the engine and tighten the three allen head screws.
Start the engine and let idle for about a minute, popping the accelerator a few times to help center the snub and the receiver. Let idle for 10 seconds more without touching the gas, and turn off the engine.
Back under the car, tighten the four receiver nuts without moving the receiver. Start the engine back up, and check to make sure there isn't any unreasonable low frequency vibes transferring to the car. (Assuming you did the tuneup.)

Finish up by ensuring that all nuts and bolts are properly tightened, reinstall the splash shield and screws, and lower the car back on the ground.
Take the car for a test drive and see if it solved your problem.

Posted on Jun 06, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Toyota Premio D4 vibrates when

Try replacing the idleing valve.

Posted on Jan 29, 2011

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Which gear do you drive in when you drive d4,d3,2,or 1

D4, that is overdrive in a 4 speed automatic. It should go into 4th gear at about 45 mph, although you may not feel it shift. The only reason to use D3 is if you are driving slow, like in city traffic, and the D4 keeps shifting in and out (from 4th to 3rd and back), as if it is "hunting gears". Most people just put it in D4 and drive away.

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I do not know if this vehicle has a torque converter lockup or not, but sounds like it. Does the transmission stop shaking when you go over 65? Some vehicles have a torque converter lockup, which means when the vehicle is traveling at a certain speed in high gear the torque converter "locks" and there is no slippage to the transmission resulting in better fuel economy. if the torque converter doesn't "unlock" when you slow down to say 45 then the engine will "lug" causing vibration. If this is the case you are not hurting anything by driving, just shift to 3 when it shakes then upshift under lighter load, or take it to a shop that replaces transmission sensors.

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Owners of a Toyota 4Runner might panic when the gearshift begins to have problems. Knowing a couple of the things that often go wrong in a 4Runner can help a driver diagnose or even repair the gearshift himself. Following are some of the more common shifting problems with 4Runners, and a bit of information on what to do next.
Shift Solenoids

  • One of the leading causes of gearshift issues in automatic 4Runners is a bad "shift solenoid." In automatics, shifts are controlled by shift solenoids, electrical coils that change gears automatically. These solenoids can go bad over time and cause stuttering between gears, or prevent shifting beyond a certain gear. Shift solenoids can be purchased and replaced on your own. By consulting the owner's manual, you can determine the location on the valve body of your vehicle and check shift solenoids for breakage or rupturing. Replacing these on your own isn't terribly difficult, as long as you are certain the shift solenoid is the problem. Tutorials are available in car repair manuals and sometimes are posted online.

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  • When a 4Runner begins to have shifting problems, the transmission is often fingered immediately as the culprit. A driver might change the transmission fluid and filter, only to find that the car slips into the same shifting problems. Four-wheel-drive vehicles utilize a transfer case that ensures shifting between two-wheel and four-wheel drive. If a vehicle has a difficult time shifting into two-wheel or four-wheel-drive high, but works on four-wheel-drive low, examine the transfer case. Common problems include linkage breaks and worn gears.

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Good Luck.

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1 Answer

When do I use the d 5 gear in acura 2003 tl 3.2 liter

Pretty much all the time!

D3, D4, and D5 are all just *DRIVE* like on any automatic transmission, EXCEPT
that the number next to the D is the "highest gear the automatic transmission will go into".
The Acura just gives you a choice, in case you don't want to go into a higher gear (like if it's slippery traction or a steep hill, etc.)

1 means: Manual gear. FIRST GEAR ONLY.
2 means: Manual gear. SECOND GEAR ONLY.
D3 means: Use automatic transmission, but engine will never shift above 3rd gear.
D4 means: Use automatic transmission, but engine will never shift above 4th gear.
D5 means: Use automatic transmission, but engine will never shift above 5th gear.

Aug 04, 2011 | 2003 Acura 3.2TL

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What gear can I used for highway D3 or D4

use d4. d4 is for normal driving. d3 is to down shift the transmission in case you wanna pass. use d3 only if you want to down shift because if you leave your car in d3 on the highway, it doesnt allow the 4th gear to engage, causing your engine to run at higher revs, not only wasting more gas but also making your engines life last less. hope this helps. if you need more help, let me know. goodluck

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When you are in d3, it does not allow the transmission to shift into 4th gear.

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D4 is drive with over drive when overdrive switch is press in/on position on shift. Good luck and thanks for using FIX YA

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TCU (Transmission Control Unit) Located behind the Passenger Kick panel. it will have a burnt diode inside and can be purchased on ebay for about 79.00 with exchange.


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