Question about 1998 Ford Explorer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
From your Description, I Suggest you; 1- Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid. ***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES*** Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jets. 2- Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port. If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.** Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks
Posted on Jun 23, 2008
SOURCE: Engine dying
it sounds like the cam sensor (also called "crank sensor") needs to be replaced. Mine has gone out twice &i t's common. In fact, Ford has a recall on this item. To do it yourself, it costs about $30 at a parts store & takes about 15 minutes to replace. Very easy!
Posted on Jul 21, 2008
to make sure the fuel pump is operating get in a quite place get in vehicle and turn ignition switch on position you should hear alittle buzz for about 2 seconds try this several times if no buzz is heard then the fuel pump is not running. check fuel pump relay in power box by switching relay with one of same type thare should be one of same type in the box if not then purchase one and try it. If the pump is ok then you know you have a firing problem. check to see if you have spark by taking one of the spark plugs out then hook spark plug wire to it lay it on engine and look for spark while someone turns the ignition switch as if trying to start car
Posted on Dec 18, 2008
Do you have a keyless entry? You could try to enter your vehicle using the keypad on the drivers side door, This should turn off the anti-theft security.
Posted on May 20, 2009
SOURCE: 1996 Ford Ranger won't start
I had the same problem , and if you read your book, it could be the fuel pump shut off switch, mine was bad and went from on to off position, its usually under the passenger side of the dash, look underneath at the "top" of the carpet, and you'll see a little red switch, check to see if the thing is plugged in , if it is , check to see if the switch is all the way down. i had to get a new one , sombody must have kicked mine and made it broken, but i got a new one and it worked fine
Posted on Jan 31, 2010
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