Question about 1998 Ford Explorer

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The engine will 'dry start' usually after seating over night or when the motor is cool? It seems to crank with plenty of strength, sometimes it even starts then sputters for a second then dies

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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chiquititas
  • 1010 Answers

SOURCE: 1993 Ford Festiva Engine won't stay running

From your Description, I Suggest you; 1- Check for Current/Voltage (10.5 VDC Minimum) to the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid. If the Carburetor Shut Off Solenoid has Current, then Remove the Carburetor Solenoid and Go to the Hardware Store. Purchase a Bolt of the Same Diameter and Threads. It Needs to be 1/2" to 3/4" Long. Put this Bolt in Place of the Solenoid. If this Corrects the Engine Problem, then Replace the Solenoid. ***NOTE: THIS IS FOR CHECKING THE SOLENOID ONLY I NEVER SUGGEST YOU OPERATE THE ENGINE WITH THE SOLENOID OUT OF THE CARBURETOR EXCEPT FOR TESTING PURPOSES*** Sometimes the Plunger is Moving, Just Not Far Enough to Allow the Gas to Enter the Jets. 2- Even though the Carburetor Looks Clean, the Internal Passages May be Restricted with Varnish that Gas Causes to Build Up over Time. I Suggest you Make Sure the Gas is Free Flowing to the Carburetor Inlet Port. If the Gas is Free Flowing to the Inlet Port, then **Remove, Disassemble and Soak the Carburetor Overnight in Carburetor Cleaner (I Use Gunk). I have Found that Most People can Use a Breakdown/IPL and Disassemble the Carburetor Enough for Proper Cleaning. You Only have to Remove the Bowl (if Applicable), Float Pin (if Applicable), Float (if Applicable) and Needle Valve and Any Adjustment Screws that Go Into the Carburetor Body. The Welch Plugs Do Not have to be Removed. Then Soak the Carburetor Body and Parts in a 1 Gallon Can of Gunk Carburetor Cleaner Overnight. The Can has a Parts Tray Inside it for the Small Parts. Once the Carburetor and Parts are in the Cleaner, you can Replace the Lid for Safety and to Prevent Accidental Spillage. Then Blow Out the Passages with Compressed Air. Install New Parts if Required.** Send me the Model and Type or Spec Numbers Off the Engine, Please. With these I can Locate the Proper Manual and Better Assist you. The Model Numbers May be Stamped Into the Blower Housing (metal engine cover) Above the Spark Plug. If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance. Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Thanks

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: Engine dying

it sounds like the cam sensor (also called "crank sensor") needs to be replaced. Mine has gone out twice &i t's common. In fact, Ford has a recall on this item. To do it yourself, it costs about $30 at a parts store & takes about 15 minutes to replace. Very easy!

Posted on Jul 21, 2008

chrischronic
  • 235 Answers

SOURCE: 1995 Ford Probe sputtering, dying. Won't start now.

to make sure the fuel pump is operating get in a quite place get in vehicle and turn ignition switch on position you should hear alittle buzz for about 2 seconds try this several times if no buzz is heard then the fuel pump is not running. check fuel pump relay in power box by switching relay with one of same type thare should be one of same type in the box if not then purchase one and try it. If the pump is ok then you know you have a firing problem. check to see if you have spark by taking one of the spark plugs out then hook spark plug wire to it lay it on engine and look for spark while someone turns the ignition switch as if trying to start car

Posted on Dec 18, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1996 ford explorer anti theft wont let car start when battery die

Do you have a keyless entry? You could try to enter your vehicle using the keypad on the drivers side door, This should turn off the anti-theft security.

Posted on May 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 1996 Ford Ranger won't start

I had the same problem , and if you read your book, it could be the fuel pump shut off switch, mine was bad and went from on to off position, its usually under the passenger side of the dash, look underneath at the "top" of the carpet, and you'll see a little red switch, check to see if the thing is plugged in , if it is , check to see if the switch is all the way down. i had to get a new one , sombody must have kicked mine and made it broken, but i got a new one and it worked fine

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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1 Answer

2000 Ford Ranger hard to start:


Unfortunately there are many things that could be causing this. I would check the engine coolant temp. sensor ..and see what its reading with the engine hot. Your going to need a scan tool to get that reading...or just change the sensor...good luck

Nov 26, 2012 | 2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab

1 Answer

Start of day. Engine starts and runs fine. Drive 5 minutes to school. 1 hour later, try to start car. Cranks and cranks. Will not turn over. (Lights: key-in-ignition-position: all lights turn off but check...


There are usually three things that cause this problem. Either 1. your car is intermittenly having the power supply to the ignition interrupted, i.e., loose battery cable or ground, or ignition module, etc 2. your alternator is failing intermittenly, or 3. Your fuel pump is going out. The most common is the fuel pump, especially with your symptoms. The way you test, is, when it won't start, shoot a little fuel into the throttle body, and see if it hits and dies, or hits and keeps going, etc. These things are notoriously intermittent, and of course, you can only troubleshoot something when it's currently not working. As for the alternator, you'll usually have some other warning sign, such as a battery light, or failure of instruments, etc. As for the ignition module, it's more of a remote chance that I included as an option. Hope this helps you out.

Nov 26, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Camaro

4 Answers

My 2003 V-6 Suzuki will only start and run when the engine is cool. When hot, it starts for about 2 second then shuts off. Engine check light does not come on and it showed no codes when the computer was...


The ignition coils are the usual culprit, they fail when hot, sometimes the module itself is bad, you need an Ignition specialist here, don't Shotgun (Replace parts till it runs)

Aug 30, 2009 | 2003 Suzuki Grand Vitara

2 Answers

After a long drive, won't start when hot. Usually cranks after cooling down .Before this started,it ran hot but the temp guage was not reading hot.The motor shut down and would not start until the engine...


definatly crankshaft position sensor, had same problem hour ago and changed it and started right up.. crankshaft positions sensors are known to cause this problem, stays open circuit when hot.

Jul 07, 2009 | 1997 Buick LeSabre

1 Answer

SEAT IBIZA 1.2 2003 LEFT FOR FEW DAYS NOW WONT START.GOOD SPARK AT PLUGS AND PLENTY OF FUEL GOING INTO CHAMBERS


You may have too much fuel and wet plugs; try starting after having pushed the accelerator completely to the floor and leaving it there while cranking, don't pump it. This will allow a lot of air to enter the engine and help dry the plugs.

May 06, 2009 | 2003 Volkswagen Golf

2 Answers

Gmc safari van cranks over, but will not fire up or start.Have tried starter fluid and still no start. Has plenty of crank,but no start


I had the same problem with my 2000 GMC Safari two years ago....drove me CRAZY!

Sometimes it would start right up...other times it just would crank and not start.

It turned out to be a cracked coil....I found it by using a spray bottle with water in it, and "misting" the engine, at night....with the engine running. (On a night when it DID start!)

It took a while, but finally the hairline crack let in some water and the electrical short showed by a spark coming out of the coil.

I replaced the coil with a new one, and it has never "not started" since.

Evidently the coil cover gets brittle and develops small, hairline cracks due to heat from the engine.

Oh...by the way....I tested the coil it showed that it was fine!....but it took the "misting" at night...in the dark...to find the spark "leaking" out.

Mar 08, 2009 | 2000 GMC Safari

1 Answer

Motor cuts off while riding down the road - then hard to start


I would replace the crankshaft position sensor, I had this same issue on my 91 Rivera (same engine and electronics) and after replacing all the parts u mentioned that is what finally fixed it, and I am a dealer technician, was a very frustrating problem, as far as the no crank goes I also had this problem, it turned out that tightening the starter motor battery cable connection and solenoid lead fixed that, hope my fix works for you.

Feb 16, 2009 | 1993 Buick LeSabre

2 Answers

2000 Dakota 3.9 V6 wont start just cranks, has plenty of fuel


I agree that it's probably the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CPS).  Without the pulse from this sensor, you vehicle will never start.  Sometimes water from a leaking water pump will run down onto this sensor and cause it to fail.  
You can go to MSN Auto for your vehicle and under the "Reliability" tab  you will see the same thing regarding the CPS (listed under Engine issues).

Jan 26, 2009 | 2000 Dodge Dakota Quad Cab

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