Question about 1983 Chevrolet C2500

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Is it possible to replace the intermediate oil pump drive shaft on a 454 chevy from the top?

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No you have to pull the oil pan off it installs from the bottom

Posted on Oct 07, 2010

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How do i replace a transmission control solenoid and where is it located?


Which control solenoid ? There are a few ,1-2 shift , TCC solenoid ,3-4 shift ,PWM solenoid .
Remove the case side cover. Refer to Case Side Cover Replacement (W/ Gasket) .
Removal Procedure
Tools Required J 28467-360 Engine Support Fixture
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to
  2. Caution: Unless directed otherwise, the ignition and start switch must be in the OFF or LOCK position, and all electrical loads must be OFF before servicing any electrical component. Disconnect the negative battery cable to prevent an electrical spark should a tool or equipment come in contact with an exposed electrical terminal. Failure to follow these precautions may result in personal injury and/or damage to the vehicle or its components.
    in General Information.
  3. Remove the park/neutral position switch. Refer to PNP Switch Replacement
  4. Install the J 28467-360
  5. Raise the vehicle. Support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting and Jacking in General Information.
  6. Remove the left front tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Wheel Removal in Suspension.
  7. Remove the inner splash shield.
  8. Remove the tie rod end from the knuckle assembly. Refer to Strut Assembly in Suspension.
  9. Remove the stabilizer shaft link from the lower control arm. Refer to Control Arm in Suspension.
  10. Remove the ball joint from the steering knuckle. Refer to Ball Joint in Suspension.
  11. Remove the drive axle from the transmission. Refer to Drive Axle in Driveline/Axle.
  12. Remove the pinch bolt from the steering gear intermediate shaft. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft in Suspension.
  13. Caution: Failure to disconnect the intermediate shaft from the rack and pinion steering gear stub shaft can result in damage to the steering gear or to the intermediate shaft. This damage may cause loss of steering control, which could result in an accident and possible personal injury.
  14. Remove the intermediate shaft from the steering gear. Refer to Intermediate Steering Shaft in Suspension.
  15. Position a transmission jack under the transmission oil pan. Raise the jack until lit supports the transmission.
  16. Remove the three frame-to-body bolts on the left side.
  17. Lower the transmission jack and the transmission in order to gain access to the case side cover.
  18. Remove the oil cooler pipes at the case. Refer to Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Pipes Replacement
This is a monumental task , suggest you take your vehicle to AAMCO or some other transmission shop .

May 09, 2016 | 1996 Oldsmobile 88

2 Answers

Where is the oil pump located on a 2007 Volkswagon Jetta


its located inside the engine there is an oil tank type under the engine with about 15 to 20 bolts this is called sump you have to remove it to get to the oil pum But dont try this at home its a technicians job

Feb 02, 2011 | 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5 Sedan

2 Answers

How to replace oil pump


REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Gasoline Engines
See Figures 1 and 2


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Fig. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pump used on 2.0L and 2.3L gasoline engines


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Fig. Fig. 2: Exploded view of the oil pump used on the 4.0L engine-2.8L and 2.9L engines are similar
  1. Follow the service procedures under Oil Pan Removal and remove the oil pan assembly.
  2. Remove the oil pump retainer bolts and remove the oil pump.

To install:
  1. Prime the oil pump with clean engine oil by filling either the inlet or outlet port with clean engine oil.
  2. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body. Install the pump and tighten the mounting bolts to 14-21 ft. lbs. on 2.0L and 2.3L engines; 6-10 ft. lbs. on 2.8L and 2.9L engines or 13-15 ft. lbs. on 4.0L engines.

Do not force the oil pump if it does not seat readily. The oil pump driveshaft may be misaligned with the distributor shaft assembly. To align, rotate the intermediate driveshaft into a new position.
  1. Install the oil pan as previously described. The oil pumps are not serviceable. If defective, they must be replaced.

Remember rated this.

Aug 11, 2010 | 1989 Ford Ranger

1 Answer

Where is the oil pump located in A 1993 ford thunderbird V6?


Inside the oil pan for the 2.3 and 5.0

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  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Remove the oil pan.
  3. Remove the oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly.
  4. Unfasten the oil pump attaching bolts, then remove the oil pump gasket and the intermediate shaft.
To install:
  1. Prime the oil pump by filling the inlet and outlet ports with engine oil and rotating the shaft of pump to distribute it.
  2. Position the intermediate driveshaft into the distributor socket.
  3. Place a new gasket on the pump body and insert the intermediate driveshaft into the pump body.
  4. Install the pump and intermediate shaft as an assembly.


WARNING Do not force the pump if it does not seat readily. The driveshaft may be misaligned with the distributor shaft. To align, rotate the intermediate driveshaft into a new position.
  1. Install and tighten the oil pump attaching screws to:

    2.3L Engine: 12-15 ft. lbs. (16-20 Nm) 5.0L Engine: 22-32 ft. lbs. (30-43 Nm)
  2. Install the oil pan.
  3. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and check for leaks.



On the 3.8...

The oil pump is mounted in the front cover assembly. Oil pan removal is necessary for pick-up tube/screen replacement or service.

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  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
  3. Drain the engine oil, then remove the oil filter.
  4. If necessary, remove the oil cooler.
  5. Unfasten the oil pump-to-front cover retaining bolts, then remove the pump from the front cover.
  6. Lift the two pump gears from their mounting pocket in the front cover.
  7. Clean all gasket mounting surfaces.
  8. Inspect the mounting pocket for wear. If excessive wear is present, complete timing cover assembly replacement is necessary.
  9. Inspect the cover/filter mounting gasket-to-timing cover surface for flatness. Place a straightedge across the flat and check the clearance with a feeler gauge. If the measured clearance exceeds 0.004 in. (0.10mm), replace the cover/filter mount. Replace the pump gears if wear is excessive.
To install:
  1. Lightly pack the gear pocket with petroleum jelly or coat all gear surfaces with Oil Conditioner D9AZ-19579-CA or equivalent, then install the the pump gears in the cover pocket. Make sure the petroleum jelly fills all voids between the gears and pockets.


WARNING Failure to properly coat the oil pump gears may result in failure of the pump to prime when the engine is started.
  1. Position the pump body O-ring seal and install the pump body to the front cover using alignment dowels on the front cover.
  2. Tighten the pump retaining bolts as follows
    1. For vehicles through 1993, tighten the M8 bolts to 18-22 ft. lbs. (25-30 Nm) and the M10 bolts to 30-40 ft. lbs. (40-55 Nm).
    2. For 1994-96 vehicles, tighten the four smaller bolts to 15-22 ft. lbs. (20-30 Nm) and the two larger retaining bolts to 6-11 ft. lbs. (8-15 Nm).

  3. If removed, install the engine oil cooler. Install the oil filter.
  4. Carefully lower the vehicle, then refill the engine crankcase with the correct type and amount of engine oil.
  5. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and check for leaks.
Thanks for using FixYa - a 4 THUMBS rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.


Jun 28, 2010 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

No oil pressure and a knocking that got


Sounds like the oil pump intermediate shaft might have slipped out of place when the distributor was removed and replaced. The intermediate shaft is held to the oil pump by a nylon sleeve that can and sometimes does break, which will allow it to slip out of place. Pull the distributor back out and look down the hole with a flashlight, you should see the top of the shaft, it looks like the head of a regular flat tip screw, if you do not see this the shaft is out of place and the only fix is to remove the oil pan and reinstall it. As far as engine damage, if you only ran the engine for a short time and at low rpms you might be alright, if you drove it down the road or ran it at high rpms then there is probably damage to the bearings, and the knock will not go away.

Apr 08, 2010 | 1990 Chevrolet Suburban

1 Answer

Would like to find some kind of diagram showing proper assembly of 454 V-8 distributor from top end to oil pump for a 1982 chevrolet 3/4 ton pickup truck. There is an intermediate shaft between the...


The nylon retainer snaps into a shallow groove in the oil pump and the pump drive shaft. Is this a new build or are you just replacing the distributor? Those retainers (not really a bushing) become brittle after a few years.If you notice the drive shaft loose or can pull it out with a magnet, you may need to drop the oil pan to remove the pump and replace the retainer.To install a new one, place the shaft and the retainer in very warm water for a few moments then just push it on the shaft 'till you feel it snap onto the groove..put it on the oil pump as quickly as possible, they crack easily when cool.

Jan 02, 2010 | 1983 Chevrolet C2500

1 Answer

Where the oil pump in a 75 ford maverick is located and how to replace it!


Removal & Installation
  1. Remove the oil pan.
  2. Remove the oil pump inlet tube and screen assembly.
  3. Remove the oil pump attaching bolts. Lower the oil pump, gasket, and intermediate driveshaft from the crankcase.
  4. To install, prime the oil pump by filling either the inlet or outlet port with engine oil. Rotate the pump shaft to distribute the oil within the pump body.

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6-cylinder oil pump disassembled


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V8 oil pump disassembled

  1. Position the intermediate driveshaft into the distributor socket. With the shaft firmly seated in the socket, the stop on the shaft should contact the roof of the crankcase. Remove the shaft and position the stop as necessary.
  2. Insert the intermediate driveshaft into the oil pump. Using a new gasket, install the pump and shaft as an assembly. Do not attempt to force the pump into position if it will not seat readily. If necessary, rotate the intermediate driveshaft hex into a new position so that it will mesh with the distributor shaft.
  3. Torque the oil pump attaching bolts to 10–15 ft. lbs. on the 6-cylinder engines, and 22–32 ft. lbs. on the 302 V8.
  4. Clean and install the inlet tube and screen assembly.
  5. Install the oil pan

Nov 19, 2009 | 1978 Ford Granada

2 Answers

How do you prime the oil pump after rebuild


The oil pump drive is off the intermediate shaft and that is driven by the timing chains. Unless you want to take apart the chains and spin the int shaft itself, there isn' t a good way to prime the motor.
Or just try this:
Just disconnect the bulkhead plug just behind the coil pack, you know the big round thing with all the wires. Crank the engine over a few times, 10-20, reconnect the plug and start the engine.
Or this:
Look on back of block there is a metal cap held on by two bolts. Take that cap off and pull out the top gear then find a socket that fits the top of the oil pump driveshaft. Put it on a power drill with a long extension stick it in the hole onto the driveshaft and spin it, cover top of whole around the extension with a rag so it doesnt spill. This will prime the whole motor, if you do it with head open you can see the oil come up through the lifters

Jul 16, 2009 | 1991 Toyota Celica

1 Answer

Timing specs for vw fox 1.8


Tune-up Specifications
Air/Fuel Ratio 0.7% Air/Fuel Ratio-Limits[1] 0.3 - 1.1% Timing[2] 6°+/- 1°BTDC Timing Advance[3] 30°+/- 3°BTDC Idle RPM[4] 800 +/- 50 [1] Check CO with the oxygen sensor connected. [2] AT 2300 RPM, and coolant temperature sensor disconnected. [3] Normal operating temperature, with coolant temp. sensor connected, at 2300 RPM. Add initial timing. [4] A/C off.
Timing mark is on flywheel, access hole is on top of bellhousing. Remove access plug with 27mm wrench if necessary
Firing Order is > 1342 Clockwise Rotation & #1 Plug Wire is at 2 Oclock on Distribitor Cap


Align the mark (can be a dot or notch) on the intermediate shaft sprocket with the notch in the crank pulley. Align the mark (can be a dot or notch) on the "Back" of camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the valve cover gasket. Be sure all the timing marks are properly aligned.

For further information refer to Timing Belt : Service and Repair
NOTE : The 8 valve engine requires a special wrench, Volkswagen No. US4493 or equivalent, to adjust the camshaft drive belt tensioner. Whenever the drive belt is removed and refitted, the camshaft and intermediate shaft timing MUST be adjusted. The drive belt can be replaced without removing the belt sprockets.
  1. Loosen alternator adjusting bolts and remove the fan belt.
  2. Remove the water pump pulley bolts and remove the pulley.
  3. Remove the upper timing cover bolts and remove the cover.
  4. Remove the timing belt guide, if equipped.
  5. Turn the engine by hand to set the No. 1 piston at Top Dead Center (TDC) and remove the crankshaft pulley.
  6. Remove bolt and nuts securing the lower timing cover and remove the cover. CAUTION: Turning the camshaft or crankshaft with the timing belt removed may cause damage to pistons and/or valves.
  7. Loosen timing belt tensioner locknut, release belt tension and remove belt from sprockets.
  8. Inspect belt for visible damage such as missing teeth or exposed threads. Inspect tensioner bearing for smooth running. Any damaged components should be replaced.
NOTE : On high mileage engines, failure of the tensioner bearing is a possibility. Consider replacing the bearing when replacing the timing belt.
  1. Align the mark (can be a dot or notch) on the intermediate shaft sprocket with the notch in the crank pulley. Align the mark (can be a dot or notch) on the "Back" of camshaft sprocket with the top edge of the valve cover gasket. Be sure all the timing marks are properly aligned.
  2. Temporarily install the crankshaft pulley to the crankshaft. Fit the timing belt starting with the crankshaft and intermediate shaft sprockets. Fit the belt so that it is as tight as possible between the crankshaft and the intermediate shaft sprockets and between the intermediate shaft and camshaft sprockets.
    1. Turn the belt tensioner clockwise to adjust the tension. The direction is important to avoid contact with the timing cover. Check the tension by twisting the belt as shown. You should be able to twist it no more than 90 degrees.
    2. Tighten the tensioner locknut to: 33 ft lbs (45 Nm)
    3. Rotate the crankshaft two revolutions and recheck the belt tension and the timing marks for proper alignment.
    NOTE: Very slight movement of sprockets and marks can be expected as belt tension is adjusted. Slight movement is OK. The smallest possible increment of adjustment is one whole tooth of the belt or sprocket.
    1. Remove the crankshaft pulley and refit the lower timing cover. Tighten the bolts to: 87 in lbs (10 Nm)
    2. Refit crankshaft pulley and tighten the bolts to: 15 ft lbs (20 Nm)
    3. Refit timing belt guide, if equipped.
    4. Refit upper timing cover and tighten bolt and nuts to: 87 in lbs (10 Nm)
    5. Refit water pump pulley and tighten the bolts to: 15 ft lbs (20 Nm)
    6. Refit fan belt and adjust tension. Tighten alternator adjusting bolts.

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Feb 09, 2009 | 1992 Volkswagen Fox

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