- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Remove the dist cap, mark the direction the rotor is pointed as close as possible for reference on the new one. Next mark the location of the distributor shaft to the surface of the intake for reference. Remove the bolt and disconnect the wiring, twist the old dist back and forth and pull up, it may be stuck so just work it back and forth. Install new dist using alignment marks made earlier, leave hold down bolt slightly loose and set timing to 10 BDTC with the spout timing shorting bar removed (near ignition control module).
The timing marks should be on the crank pulley, and you would pull the plug for the Spout near the distributor to put it in test mode. There should be a sticker on the hood or radiator support with the setting.
Then He did wrong. You are allowed 3 degrees out even 5 degrees. TPS replaced runs and quits.The way to adjust the TPS is to use a OHM meter till roating it gives no continuity.Leave alone for now,there is a idle up air control.on the throttle body its brass turn that 1/4 out and bring the RPM out. to 800RPM. When you moved the timing you also must set idle.To begin with the TPS was never the problem. Do the basic set timing,you also set RPM.
Probably timing. Aim a timing light at your crankshaft, and see if the mark is jumping back and forth irradically. It should be staying in one spot. If it's jumping around, your timing chain has jumped a cog. If not the timing, then it's probably bad wires or improper firing order .
If it's not a faulty spark plug or wire, you may be having timing issues. Possibly the timing belt has slipped one cog. If you have access to a timing light, aim it at any mark on the crank shaft. If the mark appears to be jumping back and forth, your belt has jumped. The mark should stay in one place.
Hello catfans Undo the spout connector near the distributor to put it to base timing (non computed) Hook the timing light to #5 ignition wire. This will bring the timing mark up. #1 cylinder won't work. Adjust timing to 10 degrees before top dead center. Reinstall the timing connector. If you need more assistance, let me know. KL
I recently had to replace my water pump 1991 Toyota pickup.Everything was going smooth.What you have to do is make sure both cams are pointed at the marks/notches on the back timing cover.The left one might be pointed a little more to the left of the notch, and the right one may be pointed a little more to the right. the crankshaft has to be pointed at 0 degrees. The only way to be sure this is done proper is to turn the engine twice... use a socket attached to the crankshaft and turn it past the 0 degree mark once, until it comes back again (the second time) both marks on the cams need to match up exactly the way they started... next set a inductive timing light to number one cylinder, and gap the diagnostic terminal under the hood (use a paper clip and connect the e terminal to the terminal (check manual for this, some years you must detach a vacuum tube!!!) after this start the truck, put the timing light on the crankshaft, and measure the timing... timing should be 10 degrees BEFORE top dead center (0 degrees) this is at idle (~700) if the engine is turning faster than this, the timing will be different.. best of luck and make sure the terminals are jumped!! otherwise the engine will try and compensate for the difference
To set the ignition timing on 86 mustang, get a white crandon or white paint. Find dampener on the crankshaft behind the serpentine bell. Between to 0 and the 20 there is a 10 mark. Use the white crandon or paint to mark this. Hookup your timing light, to the battery and to cylinder number one on the distributor. On this side of the distributor where the wiring harness goes in there are two more wires hanging down from the harness. This is your spout plug connector. Remove it because with this in the computer will keep adjusting the timing by itself and you will not be able to set the timing. So with the spout connector removed and the engine warmed up adjust the timing with the engine running and the timing light pointed at the dampener aligned the pointer up with the number 10 that you have marked. Do this by turning the distributor back and forth until you achieve the correct timing. To do this you must loose and the half inch bolt on the distributor hold down, when you're done retighten this bolt. Good luck.
I have wondered why this happens many times in the past. You would think the marks should line up using #1 cylinder but they don't. It has been a while but I think if you hook up to #5 ignition wire the marks will come up for you.You will need to undo the "spout" connector before setting it to 10 degrees before top dead center. The spout is a two wire jumper clip that should break out of the harness at the distributor. Warm the engine up for a while so it doesn't stall as easy while you set the timing.
The '92 Subaru Legacy uses a distributorless ignition system. No adjustment is possible/necessary. The computer adjusts the timing continuously.
You can check the timing if you have a timing light. The spec for engines with a turbo charger is 15 degrees plus or minus 8 degrees at 700 RPM. Non-turbo engines are 20 degrees plus or minus 8 degrees at 700 RPM.