Question about 1999 Mazda 626

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My 99 626 won't start. EVERYTHING has been checked...even the timing belt and its not broken or loose. Yesterday, a new crank sensor was put on and it still wouldn't start. We can smell the fuel so we know its getting gas. So what else could possibly be the problem!?!? It acts like it wants to start but it won't.

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  • soldierfodal Oct 06, 2010

    I bought the car back in FEB from a private seller so I don't know when/if the timing belt was ever replaced. But I was told that was fine. I don't think he checked the cylinder compression. And yes, the motor turns. I called advanced auto parts and they said it could need an ignition switch or ignition lock cylinder. Is the ignition lock cylinder the same as the cylinder compression?

  • soldierfodal Oct 06, 2010

    Yes...it turns...

  • soldierfodal Oct 06, 2010

    My mechanic said the timing belt is good...he opened the valve cover and said he put his finger in there and tried to move the belt and it didn't move and it isn't broken. He also said he could see it and it looks good.

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  • Mazda Master
  • 8,142 Answers

Check for spark.

Please see my tip at http://www.fixya.com/cars/r5821173-doesnt_car_start_gasoline_engines . These are generic instructions. If you get stuck or need specific instructions for your car, please get back to me with model, year and engine info.

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

  • 6 more comments 
  • soldierfodal Oct 06, 2010

    Hi....I read your suggestions and they all have been done. The starter was the first thing changed because it went out apparently after I had the car towed because it wouldn't start. At first it wasn't sounding like it needed a starter. Then it did and hitting it with a hammer didn't work so we changed the starter and the car came on right after it was replaced. But the very next day, it was dong the same thing again...not starting but sounding like it wanted to. My mechanic tried to put it on the machine but it wouldn't give any codes. He checked for spark and it's getting spark. He checked the3rd spark plug...I don't know if he checked the others....could the others be damaged and cause the car not to start?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Oct 06, 2010

    OK, did he check the firing order of the plugs? has he tried using starter fluid?
    It would not hurt to check all of the spark plugs and wires.

  • soldierfodal Oct 06, 2010

    Yes....He checked the firing order and he added starter fluid.

  • soldierfodal Oct 06, 2010

    I am going to try replacing the starter...it could be defective.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Oct 06, 2010

    OK, well it seems to me the valves are out of time. Was the timing belt replaced? You say it is tight, right? Did he also check the cylinder compression? Sorry, but I'm running out of ideas.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Oct 06, 2010

    If the motor turns when you try to start, it is not the starter. Does the motor turn?

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Oct 06, 2010

    If you are getting spark, it is not the ignition switch. You have crank, you have fuel, you have spark. the only thing left is timing. Who told you the timing belt was goor--the previous owner or your mechanic? A compression test is a test to check the valves in the engine cylinders. It can help us determine it the engine is taking in and compressing the air/fuel for combustion. This is called proper valve timing. A better way to check valve timing is to remove the timing cover and check the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket, but the compression test is much easier to start with.

  • Jeff Turcotte
    Jeff Turcotte Oct 06, 2010

    OK, then I would still do the compression test, unless he has already done that. you are running out of good options. The compression test only takes about 30 minutes. If you want to do it yourself, you can probably borrow a tester. All you do is take out the spark plugs and screw the tester in the plug hole. Crank the engine a couple revolutions and read the dial. Release the pressure in the gage after testing each cylinder. It should be at least 130 psi for each cylinder.

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