Question about Nissan GT-R

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This morning when i drove my nissan Nissan SKYLINE 250GT 2004 and it had some kind of shock effect when i pull up, almost like it will shut down, especially when i drive above 60km/h. I'm not sure if it can be the computer or a sensor problem cant find model in the list i put GT-R otherwise i cant submit

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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lesabre1972
  • 474 Answers

SOURCE: nissan skyline 1996 model: abs

I would try checking for a bad fuse or bad wheel speed sensor.

Posted on Aug 30, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2004 Nissan Murano, back door can't open

I had a similar problem with a sienna and sometimes the cable ( inside the door) between the handle and the latch gets stuck in the sleeve. Kind of like the brake cable on a bike.
take the panel off by removing all the screws you can see on the panel and pull the panel off. There will be plastic pins holding it. Some of them may pop off and some will break off.
Drip oil down the sleeve so the cable slides freely. I used bike chain oil. Do not use WD40. This is **** and will not work for very long. Try the handles a few times before you put the panel back.

Posted on Mar 03, 2009

  • 160 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 nissan maxima SE with 61,000 miles. Driving

no it is not it could be the trans a vavle or a cracked head

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

  • 51 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 Nissan would not start

Try checking your battery and or starter. If not them you might have another electrical problem.

Posted on Apr 29, 2009

  • 534 Answers

SOURCE: clutch not primming in r32 skyline

You either have air in the system or a faulty master cylinder.

Check fluid is being delivered from the master cyl. by slackening off the hydraulic line connection at the master cylinder while depressing pedal.
Until fluid is able to be delivered from the master cyl. itself you have no hope of bleeding the rest of the system.

As with all hydraulic bleeding processes, only release the fluid line when the pedal is being pushed slowly down or held down against the return spring pressure of the clutch pressure plate - re-tighten it on the upward stroke of the pedal to stop it drawing air back into the system.

If you are confident that there is fluid delivery from the master cyl. move to the clutch slave cylinder.

Again only open the bleeder valve when the pedal is being pushed slowly down (i.e. the hydraulic system is pressurised).

(If you keep the master cylinder full of hydraulic fluid, sometimes gravity will cause the line to 'self bleed' if the bleed nipple is left slightly open for several minutes at the start of the bleed process).
When fluid appears, finish the slave cylinder air bleed in the normal way.

If you have the time to spare, I have often found that provided the master cylinder is kept full, leaving the system overnight will allow a lot of the air to leave the system (gravity helps).

Posted on Jun 04, 2009

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