Trying to just keep front brakes to run derby i plugged mail line going out to back brakes now coming out of where ya fill it what fitting of the two front one or back runs the front calipers

well it will be hard till you start the car and the vacuum assist helps. did you bench bleed the master before hooking the brake lines up.that is to get all the air out. then bleeding the lines is the other issue. but that would make the pedal feel soft. bench bleed it again. if you don't know how. get two brake lines that bolt into the holes make sure they are the same fittings. I buy just the fittings but the also sell lines and you can bend them your self. I run the lines back into the fill hole. then with them below the fluid I pump the brake pedal. if you have a helper. have them keep doing it till you don't see any air bubbles. then connect the lines back up and then you can bleed the lines from each wheel.

You forget the load sensing valve & just properly
fabricate new brake tubing from the last good fitting
coming from the front

Keep going to the part or next fitting that the valve went to,
the back brakes

Hi Anonymous, for more information about your question please visit the websites below. Good luck and have nice day.
BIKER CHOICE Goodridge Econoline Brake Line Kit for Harley Davidson

Screw in the fittings in the master cylinder in both locations. Connect the hoses to them. Fill up the master cylinder with brake fluid. Put both hoses into the brake fluid. Begin manually pushing in the part where the rod goes into the back of the master cylinder. Continue pumping or pushing it in and out until there is no air in those tubes. It is much easier if you have a vise you can put it in as it is very hard to just hold it. I hope this helps and good luck.

First thing you need to do is bench bleed the new master cylinder.new master should have come with 2 plastic tubes and fittings.screw fittings into new master,fix tubes to fittings other end in to top of master where fluid goes.fill with fluid make sure the tubes are submergered in brake fluid for entire process.take a screwdriver and press plunger in rear of master.use short slow strokes to start you will see air bubbles in resovoir.slowly increase length of stoke watchin resovoir till no mome bubbles.now ready to install.Remove failed master,(loosen lines befofe removing mounting bolts)remove lines last.reinstall new master then remove bleeding tubes last install and tighten lines.Fill fluid replace lid,have a helper sit in car,loosen lines about half a turn.Have helper depress brake pedal slowly and hold down pedal untill lines tightened.when tight release pedal and repeat 5/6 times.fluid should come out of lines without any air when bled propperly.if failed master did not run out of fluid uyou should be finished.if pedal still soft/mushy will have to bleed a wheels also.use same proceedure but openening bleed screws not lines.may take many times to get rid of all air,you can see and hear the air exiting bleeders.keep an eye on fluid level while bleeding if u run out you are starting again

sound like you are disconecting the brake hose if you are, put a hose clamp on,

Section 06-06: Hydraulic Brake System 1992 Festiva Workshop Manual GENERAL SERVICE OPERATIONS Manual Bleeding

1. Read Hydraulic System Bleeding General Information.

1. Clean all dirt from the master cylinder filler cap.

1. Fill the master cylinder with the specified brake fluid. During the bleeding operation do not allow the master cylinder to run dry.
   

1. If the master cylinder is known or suspected to contain air it must be bled before the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the front line fitting and have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. While the assistant holds the pedal, tighten the brake line fitting. After the line fitting is tightened, the assistant may release the brake pedal. Repeat this procedure on the rear brake line. Repeat the entire process several times to ensure all air has been removed from the master cylinder.
   

1. Remove the bleeder screw cap from the appropriate rear wheel cylinder.

1. Position a box end wrench on the bleeder fitting.

1. Attach a rubber hose to the bleeder fitting. The hose has to fit snugly around the bleeder fitting.
   

1. Submerge the free end of the hose in a container partially filled with brake fluid.

1. Loosen the bleeder fitting approximately three quarters of a turn.

1. Have an assistant push the brake pedal slowly through its full travel and hold it there.

1. Close the bleeder fitting.

1. Have the assistant release the brake pedal.

1. Repeat Steps 9 through 12 until air bubbles cease to appear at the submerged end of the bleeder hose.

1. When the fluid entering the bottle is completely free of bubbles, tighten the bleeder screw, remove the bleeder hose, and install the bleeder screw cap.

1. Repeat Steps 5 through 14 at the appropriate diagonal front caliper.

1. Check the master cylinder fluid level. If necessary fill it to the correct level with the specified brake fluid.
   

1. Check pedal feel. If the pedal remains spongy, repeat the bleeding process or, if necessary, refer to Diagnosis and Testing in Section 06-00.

ALWAYS START YOUR BLEED PROCESS AT THE WHEEL FARTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, WHICH IN YOUR CASE IS THE RIGHT REAR, THEN THE LEFT REAR, FOLLOWED BY RIGHT FRONT AND THEN LEFT FRONT.

The brake line will run from the back of the wheel backing plate to a connection point further toward the front or center of the car (where it connects, along with the other brake line) to a fitting. The line can be removed and replaced. Patching it would be a waste of time because a brake line, when the brake pedal is pressed, undergoes a great deal of hydraulic pressure. The lines are specially made to withstand that pressure. If you were to undertake the job yourself, you should take into account that it can be a pretty dirty job since brake fluid is going to be flowing from the fittings once you disconnect them (you should be prepared to plug them so you don’t lose all your fluid) and the fittings are often difficult to turn with a wrench The following is the procedure, but I would seriously consider finding a local garage for an estimate for the work.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Elevate and safely support that side of the car.
Remove the wheel so it is easier to access the backing plate.
Clean the joint where the brake line connects to the back of the plate.
Place a pan under the joint to be disconnected.
Using two wrenches (one to hold the joint and one to turn the fitting) disconnect the line to be replaced.
Disconnect the other end of the line, moving the drain pan as necessary.
Disconnect and retaining clips or brackets that may be holding the line and remove the line.
If you are going to have the system open for more time than it takes to swap lines, plug the line coming from the main cylinder (toward the front of the car).
Install the new line, assuring yourself that both ends are correctly threaded and turn smoothly using finger pressure as you start them (consider that some lines are flexible hoses with fittings on the ends and others are solid pipe that has to be gently bent into the proper configuration).
Using the two wrenches, tighten each fitting to 9-12 lbs, which you can estimate. Good and tight.
Reinstall the clips or brackets you may have removed.
Refill the brake reservoir with clean, fresh brake fluid.
BLEED THE BRAKE SYSTEM.(that means all four brakes at the wheel bleeders, which can be a job in itself)
Replace the wheel, reattach the neg. cable, etc.
I hope this helps you.

take the fitting at the caliper completely off and try.
Did you bend the tubing yourself, or was it pre-bent?
If you did it yourself, look for a kink in the bend.
It should only take a few full pumps to get fluid to the back.
If there is no fluid, the equalizing valve needs to be replaced.
If you purchased a pre-bent line, did you take the plugs out of both ends? they put plastic plugs in to keep dirt+debris out during storage.
If you need more help, we're here.