When the cooling fan is not working and the fuze and the relay is good...and how to fix it...?

op
why not post symptoms first and not a barrage of parts.
must we decode that to a symptom,. kinda hard right.

I will not guess. what is wrong, nor what is not working on your car. now what fans you are talking about, up to 4 fans on cars.

cab blower fan (wild guess blower is ok) and so is HVAC, ?
radiator fans
Condenser fan.

my wild guess to , engine over heats?????????
if yes, the scan it first. no not last FIRST.
it dont work like you think its not a 1988 Samurai.
sorry,
on modern cars, they got smarter, the engine goes
gee the PCM knows water temp why have a fan temp regulator.
hark , now it dont. (saves cash on useless parts)
but has a relay , (well until you have my car and the relay is now 100% electronic, called a huge transistor)
we've used this tech in industry for years, but car makers just learning how still.
i digress. but evolution and history helps diagnosis.
what is there?

Ill look for you, ive posted this 100s of times
the book is 4 bucks to see online. the real deal
lets look now.
XL-7 (the dash matters big time)
answering for , overheats engine, and fans on RAD dead.
(some are staged, PCM brains... now. and also chain ops based on if A/C is on or not) facts.
first I see 2 fans... ok.
the next page shows nice block diagram of the fan system
yup, NOT Simple.

ill post those words for you.
"The engine cooling fan system consists of 2 electrical cooling fans and 3 fan relays. The relays are arranged in a series/parallel configuration that allows the engine control module (ECM) to operate both fans together at low or high speeds. The cooling fans receive positive voltage from the cooling fan relays which receive battery positive voltage from the underhood fuse block.
During low speed operation, the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed cooling fan relay which is fan 1 relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the low speed fan relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and supplies battery positive voltage from the fan 1 fuse through the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the left cooling fan. The ground path for the left cooling fan is through the series/parallel relay which is fan 2 relay, and the right cooling fan. The result is a series circuit with both fans running at low speed.
During high speed operation the ECM supplies the ground path for the low speed fan relay through the low speed cooling fan relay control circuit. The ECM grounds the high speed fan relay, which is fan 3 relay, and the series/parallel relay, which is fan 2 relay through the high speed cooling fan relay control circuit. This energizes the series/parallel relay coil, closes the relay contacts, and provides a ground path for the left cooling fan. At the same time the high speed fan relay coil is energized closing the relay contacts and provides battery positive voltage from the fan 2 fuse 1 on the cooling fan motor supply voltage circuit to the right cooling fan. During high speed fan operation, both engine cooling fans have their own ground path. The result is a parallel circuit with both fans running at high speed.
When the request for fan activation is withdrawn, the fan may not turn OFF until the ignition switch is moved to the OFF position or the vehicle speed exceeds approximately 16 km/h (10 mph). This is to prevent a fan from cycling ON and OFF excessively at idle.
end quote.

i bet you didnt scan it , like 99.9 % of all posters here dont.
DTC Descriptors
DTC P0480: Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit
DTC P0481: Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit
DTC P0691: Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0692: Cooling Fan Relay 1 Control Circuit High Voltage
DTC P0693: Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit Low Voltage
DTC P0694: Cooling Fan Relay 2 Control Circuit High Voltage
Diagnostic Fault Information

is the ECT showing overheat, yes no?
if yes, it must operate a fan or 2.
the book even covers all tests for fans dead, in a large truth table.
both the FSM and alldata.com have that, its no secret ,its published in 4 major places.

lets back up
if the engine coolant is low (no that side tank the engine and rad)
the ECT will lie. if that happens the fans may not come one
that is because the ECT is useless measuring air, for water.
that water must touch ECT for ECT to work.
this is FIRST
then scan the ECT does it show overheating, IT must if it IS overheating. fix that next if it lies to you,(IR gun in hand)

The system has staged fans.
i cant find the trip points in my crappyy online pages.
but is like 225f then 250f trips. is my guess...
about. if the engine over heats, check fuses first then scan it.
it will simply tell you why its bad.
eg, fan1 output dead.
or if you hot wire a fan and its dead, then it is.
(only on cars with non modulated fans,,hot wire them,else not.)

now the link to the 4 buck real book.
the non dash XL7 (my guess) you this pick yourself... cant see car.
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/Products/10182-2007-xl7-service-manual.aspx

this is how it really works
the ECU has software that decide trip points for fans.
hard coded, this is. based on how hot it is and if A/C is on not.
its way smarter than 1988 and better.
the DTC errors can see an open line, shorted to ground or stuck 12v.(runs all time error)
(tells you relay is good or not)

no scanner no joy , sorry, tis a fact.....

Sounds as if,the cavalier,may have an internal blown head gasket.

The selector switch on the dash controls the blower motor relay, then the fan switch controls the speed. The fan switch gets power from a 40amp fuse and the control panel gets power from two other fuses.
If you are working the control switch to get the fan to work, the control switch may be failing.

disconnect the plug at the fan,, supply the wires that go to the fan with 12 volts direct,, if the fan starts,, the fan is good, if not replace it,, now if its good,, follow the system back,, go to the fan replay, check it, ( sometimes you will have 2 or 3 of the same relays in the under hood fuse box, just switch them out so that the fan has a good one, ( known to work) if this fixes the problem, replace the relay

the cooling fans on your car are comanded on by the engine control module which reads engine temperature from the temperature sensor . when comanded on the engine control module sends a signal to the cooling fan relays . which in turn runs the current to the cooling fans . So you might want to check the cooling fan relays and make sure the fues for the cooling fans are good and the relays .if the cooling fan fuses and relays are good it could be a problem with the fan motors or the engine control module not reading the right temperature in that case it could mean you have a problem with the temperature sensor

The low speed side of that relay is the most common failure point in this system. Usually you can still hear the relay click, but the contact points are burned away.
I am not familiar with the Z3 fuse box, but the the first step in the diagnosis of that circuit is to pull the wire off the temperature sensor in the radiator. Use a paper clip to jumper from the high and low speed wires to the ground wire (ground is usually brown on BMWs). You will probably hear the relay click and the fan may or may not come on for either speed. If it clicks but the fan does not come on, and you know the fan works, just follow the sound of that click and replace the relay.
If the relay does not click, it may still be a relay problem, but check your fuses before replacing the relay..

Your cooling fans are not running when they should be (one is sensor controlled and runs at need) the other one manually comes on when the A/C is turned on so that fits with hot when idling and cooler when moving (you get some air flow while moving). The fans have relays and fuzes that should be located and checked. Once the relays are verified or replaced then the fans should run. If they still do not run perhaps they need replacing. DJP

The horn maybe a horn relay,or a bad horn,or the horn button .The cooling fans,check to see if they will come on with the ac on,if not,check the fuses,and the cooling fan relays,if the cooling fans come on with the ac,then change the coolant sensor.

A lot of different things fall into this senario.Low coolant level,air in the cooling system,and a stuck thermostat,or,a bad coolant sensor,or even a bad cooling fan relay,or the cooling fans are bad.Turn the defrost on or the ac,the cooling fans should come on if the fans,and the relay are ok,if so,replace the thermostat,and coolant sensor,and bleed the cooling system of air.

In the fan circuit...You have a temp switch screwed on the radiator, a fuze and a relay in the fuze box plus a fan.  Swap the relay with another relay, replace the fuze.  The other fan should come on when the a/c is turned on.  If you fix the fans and it still overheats, you may have a BLOWN HEAD GASKET.  ALSO ARE YOU BLEEDING THE AIR FROM THE SYSTEM?  DO YOU SMELL EXHAUST IN THE COOLANT?