Question about 2003 Chevrolet Impala

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I have a 2003 Chevy Impala with 84,000 miles. I had a new "used" motor(68,000) after the rob bearing spun the crankshaft. After picking up my car its started doing a feeling of being rear ended. I really thought somebody had bumped my bumper. I was either stopped or just barely moving the first two times. The second times I was just starting to go. I took it back to the shop and of course it not there fault. So they switched out the coil packs off the car that the motor came off of. Now my car dies while driving it starts back right after it dies. No lights My thoughts: Maybe my original coils got messed up while the new "used" motor was being put it which caused the rear ended sensation. Swapping out the coils fixed that but is causing the dieing problem. The car didn't die until after he switched out the coil packs. Who only knows what else they did they lied about somethings. Any thoughts or ideas would be great!! How do you test the coil packs yourself. So what could be causing my car to die? Also any ideas to making it feel like I had been rear ended. New "used" car are expensive!!! Please Help!!!!

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  • labgirl06 Oct 05, 2010

    Here is the full description it wouldn't all fit into the question box.

    I have a 2003 Chevy Impala with 84,000 miles. I had a new "used" motor(68,000) after the rob bearing spun the crankshaft. After picking up my car its started doing a feeling of being rear ended. I really thought somebody had bumped my bumper. I was either stopped or just barely moving the first two times. The second times I was just starting to go. I took it back to the shop and of course it not there fault. So they switched out the coil packs off the car that the motor came off of. They thought it probably had a short in it. I picked it back up after that and drove it home 20 miles.

    Next day, I leave and get two miles down the road and it just dies. No lights to warn me or anything. The battery light came on but it was just like when you turn the key without starting the car kinda thing since it was dead. The car did start back up.
    I take it back to the shop for a week and they couldn't find anything wrong or get it to die. So when I pick it up I ask and the mechanic said they got it to do the rear ended feeling and said my transmission now needed rebuilt. I asked about the car dieing ( reason I took it back) and he acted like I had never mentioned it and didn't know what would cause that.

    Now I'm driving home and it dies again at 65mph and starts back up. I took my car the Chevy dealership for two weeks and they couldn't find anything wrong it.

    We are trying to find out what could be causing it to die. I don't believe that the repair (if you can call it that) actually got my car the make the rear ended feeling like he said. I believe they were just trying to get rid of me and blamed something else. I haven't really had the car enough to drive it to see if the coils fixed the rear ended sensation but the dealership had no problems.

    My thoughts: Maybe my original coils got messed up while the new "used" motor was being put it which caused the rear ended sensation. Swapping out the coils fixed that but is causing the dieing problem. The car didn't die until after he switched out the coil packs. Who only knows what else they did they lied about somethings.

    Any thoughts or ideas would be great!! How do you test the coil packs yourself.
    So what could be causing my car to die? Also any ideas to making it feel like I had been rear ended.

    New "used" car are expensive!!! Please Help!!!!

  • Richard Scordino Oct 05, 2010

    It's difficult to diagnose electrical problems on line because there are tests that need to be done to find those things. Worse yet, people can do things to a car that the car could never do to itself.
    Best thing you can do is have another more reliable shop check it out for you.
    If the problem changed when the coils were replaced, high probability that they either are bad or connected incorrectly. To do this yourself you will need some very good schematics and a good repair manual.

  • labgirl06 Oct 06, 2010

    I took it to the Chevy dealership after having the stupid repair shop that fixed (messed) it up look at it. The dealership couldn't find anything wrong with it and I told them everything that had happened. They didn't know! I don't know who else to take it to that could find it. My husband it pretty good around vehicles with doing things once having an idea of how to do it or just what do try.

    What would you recommend testing and how would you go about it? Maybe I can find a place that rents high tech auto equipment that would allow us to test some things ourselves. I really would like to test the coil things they switched out and see if that is it. How can we do that? Is it possible to take them off and take them to somebody to test them if we can't? Maybe that would be cheaper than taking the whole car. I feel trapped in the situation!

    Thanks for the suggestions and do you have any more that could help us out?

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Well, if you are stuck with this, I'd begin by getting a chiltons manual (haynes is weak on diagrams). There are individual component tests you can do using a digital volt / ohm meter listed in the manual. It sounds a lot like you have an intermittent poor connection somewhere I'd do "wiggle" tests on harnesses and check all ground points to make sure everything has been tightened and connected. Testing while the engine is running can be a good idea as when it stalls, you can again test and see if any particular connection that had power does not. When checking connections, always look inside the connector and verify that no pins are bent or pushed back into the plug. Also check any wires that run near the parting line between the engine and transmission as sometimes they can get pinched between and short out. As for the coils, they may be bad, or, they may not be installed correctly. The manual will give install instructions as well as testing parameters. The problem may not be in the coils but in adjacent wiring that may have been moved while removing and installing them so check carefully all around that area. Using the schematic as a guide, you can check wiring from origin to destination without opening the harness. To do that, disconnect the battery and use the ohmeter to check for continuity and also for ground faults. There are many wires to test so I recommend using a notebook and recording the test results. This may begin to give you a "picture" of what is going on there.
As I mentioned, people can do things that the vehicle could never do to itself. Problems such as yours can turn into projects that can take many hours to solve. It's not impossible, it just takes time the dealer does not have.
I wish I could give you an instant diagnosis but having done many jobs just like the one you are facing, I know it isn't fun.
Good luck...stay with it and you will find the answer.

Posted on Oct 06, 2010

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