Question about 1991 Chevrolet S-10 Blazer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
follow the upper radiator hose to the engine, under the nipple that the hose attaches to on the engine is the thermostat, 2 bolts and maybe a bracket VERY EASY TO DO.
Posted on Feb 10, 2009
have one person in the blazer pumping the brake pedal and then hold to the floor, crack the bleeder then tighten, release pedal, repeat till all air is out one side at a time, if this does not work then your ABS unit is bad witch if u follow your lines from your master cylinder u will find a black box with a motor on it, or the master cylinder itself is bad, it also can cause u to have no pedal, replace the master cylinder first, most likely cheaper.
Posted on Mar 11, 2009
I have done this twice on my 1991 S-10 Blazer 4x4 with automatic transmission and 4.3 v6. This procedure and it works 100%. It is mean to do, but this method does 100% work.
1.) First disconnect the positive battery cable.
2.) Now look at where the positive battery cable is clamped to the frame below the battery and unclip the cable there. This is so you can get slack on the positive battery cable. Now pull the positive batter cable down as far as you can toward the frame. This is done from the top side with the hood open.
3.) Now go unneath and take out the dust cover bolts 15mm and the dust pan will be loose, this is so you can shift the dust pan around. Don't try to completely remove the dust pan, you only need it to be loose.
4.) Now loosen and take out the two starter bolts 14mm and the starter will drop down. Now get a little rough with it and the starter will pass by the loosened dust cover and the starter will fall out. Watch out at this point that stress is not too great on the wires going to the solenoid switch. You don't want to break these two wires from the wight of the starter pulling on them.
5.) Now pull down the main battery wire to get you some wire slack to the starter. you will be able to pull it down maby 3 inches. This is enough to allow you to undo the two wires on the solenoid.
6.) The starter will now completely come out. Keep in mind that you must move the loosened dust cover form side to side to make a clearance so the starter will come out.
7.) Now compare the old starter to the new one that you have gotten so to be sure you have bought the correct starter. I got my starter form an Advance Auto Parts store (no connection to them whatsover) It was a World Parts brand part number P6416S with the solenoid. I think the generic part number would be a 6416S (S means with solenoid switch attached).
8.) Now connect the wires back to the new starter. Making sure they are shorting out against anything.
9.) You will now put the new starter back, ( with the wires connected). To do this you will have you will have to shake and move around the dust cover so it can clear its way back up in there.
10.) My starter came with 5 or 6 shims, I did not use any of them and my starter worked perfectly and meshed fine. I would not add any shims at all unless you absoulty have a reason to have to.
11.) I am 60 years old, and my son and myself did this yesterday 04-18-09 while laying on the ground on our backs. If you could do this over a ditch it would be better, but a flat ground ground will work, but it is a tighter area to work in. My son was able to lift that heavy starter back up in the hole, since I was played out at this time. A lift would be nice, but not needed.
12.) I wanted to add this real life solution that really actually works so that maby someone else can benefit from this. It is not to hard, but can be done. Keep in mind the secret is taking out all of the bolts from the dust pan so it can move around, and getting the positive battery cable loose so you can get some slack with it. Yes don't forget to re fasten back on the battery cable after you have finished.
Posted on Apr 18, 2009
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