Question about 2005 GMC Yukon Denali
Its more than likely the bulb has gone, it will if you leave it on for long periods of time, can be a led on some dashes and they can last longer than bulbs but sometimes they dont.
Posted on Jul 28, 2017
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: windshield wiper motor
under the plastic cowl that the windshield wipers are on top of. removal of the wipers is nessecary. then removal of the cowl is next. and underneath all that should be the motor.
OR sometimes it is mounted on the firewall in the engine bay on either side usually can't miss it.
Posted on Feb 09, 2009
SOURCE: windshield wiper arm
These are a tight fit...Spray a little penetrating lubricant onto it and let it sit for about 20 minutes. You will notice there are splines that match up from the drive unit to the base of the wiper arm...sometimes these can get a little corroded and becasue of the relative surface area it makes them a real pain to get off. You may need to just pry against it gently with a flat head scredriver after you spray on the lubricant. Pray at it from all different sides of the base so that it doesn't bind up and get crooked.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
Posted on Feb 12, 2009
most all you can buy now is the whole arm autozone or oreilys will replace these when you buy them at no charge if you are having trouble
Posted on Dec 27, 2009
These instructions are for the regular size Yukon, but hopefullly will apply to your XL. Despite what you may read elsewhere it is virtually impossible to access the pumps and fittings without releasing and lowering the reservoir. Release the four plastic retainers at the forward side of the left front inner fender, working in the wheel well. Note that two of these fasten to the reservoir. Then remove the battery [I have read elsewhere that you should remove the negative first then wait a minute before removing the positive, something to do with air bags ??]. Remove the 6 cap screws that hold the battery pan in place, and a seventh that supports the reservoir from the top. Remove the pan. There are two more screws holding the resevoir, one near the filler cap and the other near the passenger side of the bottom - access this from below or from wheel well, pulling back the inner fender that you have freed earlier. The reservoir will now drop down so unless you have emptied it you should support it so as not to strain wires or hoses. Now you can access the wires and hose fittings to release them and then the pumps. The pumps are just a press fit into a rubber bushing that fits in to the hole in the reservoir. Be sure to get the new one properly aligned - if you look at the design you will see that a peg on the top fits in to a slot in the resevoir. Reverse the above to reassemble. Check the hoses carefully to be sure they are not cracked or damaged or you will be doing this all over later. The hoses pass through slots on the side of the reservoir that seem perfectly designed to put nicks in the side of them, especially if you have put strain on them, and this guarantees they will fail later. If you have to repair a hose you will find it easier to make a coupling from some 7/32 rubber hose than to try to replace the original .hard plastic hose. Good luck.
Posted on Dec 31, 2009
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