Question about 1995 Ford Econoline

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XG FALCON UTILITY (AUSTRALIAN) VACUUM SCHEMATICS

The in-cabin directional airflow doesn't work. I've had a look at the vacuum switch. There is no vacuum tube into the second inlet from the left (next to the black); and I get a vacuum noise - like there should be a tube there. When I block the black I can get air to the screen. But this is only temporary; and doesn't properly solve the problem. Any suggestions.

p.s. I had to describe the car as an econoline - because that's the only 1995 model that the product dropdown would accept. But the car is a utility (same as a pick up).

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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emissionwiz
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SOURCE: dpfe sensor broke in the REF tube

One hose is reference the other is pressure, the hoses are different sizes, do you have the factory high-temp silicone hoses required? they are different sizes so you can't mix them up, vacuum hose will burn up in short order, the failure of this sensor is almost always caused by excessive exhaust back pressure, you may have a cat converter starting to plug up.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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SOURCE: Car hesitates and runs rough at low RPM's....worse

rough sounds comes even if u r in slow speed with high gear...if it s automatic gear then the prb is with the engine...jus give for engine test in u r nearby service station!!!!

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

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SOURCE: 99 ford f250 truck 5.4 need vacuum line schematics

Try ebaymotors they have repair manuals on cd that are inexpensive and have electrical schematics as well as vacuum diagrams. $15.00 - $20.00

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

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SOURCE: cannot find vacuum resivoir canister on 2001

on the passenger side under the air filter compartment

Posted on May 17, 2010

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SOURCE: my 1997 ford f150 heater

I need a vacuum check valve that is behind the battery. Where can I get and after market part.

Posted on Apr 07, 2011

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Climate Control System Condition Possible Sources Action
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. Air won't blow out of the floor or center vents just defrost ? Do you have manual or automatic climate control ?
Air Flow Control
Air flow control is accomplished in the following manner:
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  • The function selector knob has the following positions: OFF, MAX A/C, A/C, PANEL, PANEL/FLOOR, FLOOR, FLOOR/DEFROST and DEFROST. The A/C-heater function selector switch combines a vacuum selector valve with an internal electrical switch.
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vacuum control motor-i4bq0ig33y1522pr2d2rrkk3-2-0.gif

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Vacuum control motors are used to position these airflow control doors.
SECTION 412-01: Air Distribution and Filtering 2000 Expedition/Navigator Workshop Manual DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION Procedure revision date: 06/17/1999 Air Distribution There are two sources of air available to the air distribution system:
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Recirculated air is only used during MAX A/C, AUTOMATIC (if equipped with EATC) and OFF modes.
Air distribution within the vehicle is determined by the function selector switch position, if equipped with manual A/C, or is controlled by the electronic automatic temperature control system in the AUTOMATIC mode but can be overridden by the driver if desired. Airflow control doors are used to direct airflow within the heater air plenum chamber. Vacuum control motors are used to position these airflow control doors.
The air distribution system is designed to provide airflow from the defrost nozzle when no vacuum is applied to any of the vacuum control motors. This is done to prevent a situation where defrost cannot be obtained due to a system vacuum leak.
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  • windshield defroster hose nozzle.
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expedition air flow hvac system-xvcmtr1jbqa4kfrdszeh0lpe-3-0.gif Item Part Number Description 1 18A318 Vacuum control motor - panel/defrost door 2 18A478 Panel/defrost door (full vacuum position) 3 - Defrost airflow 4 - Side window demister airflow 5 18B545 Temperature blend door (full heat position) 6 19860 A/C evaporator core 7 19A813 Air inlet duct door (full vacuum position) 8 - Outside air inlet 9 18A318 Vacuum control motor - air inlet duct door 10 - Recirculated air inlet 11 19805 Blower motor 12 - Vacuum to emission control 13 - Vacuum from the engine intake manifold 14 19A563 A/C vacuum check valve 15 19A566 A/C vacuum reservoir tank and bracket 16 19B888 A/C-heater function selector switch 17 18476 Heater core 18 18A559 Floor/panel door (full vacuum position) 19 - Floor airflow 20 18A318 Vacuum control motor - floor/panel door 21 - Panel vent airflow
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The mode control on your heater panel uses engine vacuum to operate the doors in the heater box. when the system loses vacuum, it defaults to the defrost setting. find the small plastic vacuum line that penetrates the firewall and leads to the engine intake manifold. Check the hose that attaches the line to the engine for cracking or looseness. If that is OK, trace the line back into the cabin. It should lead to the control panel. Check any tees or couplings for leakage. If it's good all the way to the mode control switch, it is likely the connection to the switch or the switch itself is leaking. With the engine running, listen carefully to the switch for hissing. It is also possible that the defrost door actuator is bad. If you can find the door, try applying vacuum directly to the actuator to see if it operates to shift the flow. If it doesn't, replace the actuator.

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2005 ford escape 3.0 V6... the heater/defrost last winter was barely enough to defrost & keep you warm & now in the summer the A/C was barely cool...had the a/c checked recently by dealer they said...


Does your vehicle have a cabin filter? If so, recommended change interval is 15,000 miles. If you have not changed it recently and/or you park under tree's, I will bet that the filter has more leaves on it than your driveway.

Okay, I've dealt with this a time or two. Surely, the dealer checked or mentioned the cabin filter?!!
How about airflow out of the dash vents, and....wait for it....a vacuum leak. I'm sure the dealer mentioned and checked all this stuff. But just in case he didn't....try these:

With or without a cabin filter, debris can get into the system over time and partially clog the airflow thru the system. The blower motor must be removed and using a light and mirror, one can look into the duct work and see the blower side of the heater core, and evaporator, as well as the drainpan. They should be fairly clean. If not, you will need to have it cleaned out.

If all is good with the filter, ductwork, and blower, all that is left is the electronic's which work in tandem with vacuum. The blend door actuator could be stuck between hot and cold, A. because it's faulty, or B. its jammed with debris, or C. low vacuum.

All the controls and actuators and electronic's would take hours to explain. So, read the following and go from there.

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

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The air/vent control is accuated by vacuum servos.

Check for a leaking or disconnected vacuum control line ...- from memory the most common vacuum problem is with the connector on the firewall behind the glovebox (it can get kicked out of place by the passengers feet).
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I have a mercury mountaineer 2003 V6. It has a problem of making sound repeated when I want to have heat turned on. No sound when the dashboard A.C/Heat stays at AC level, which is the zero? level. The...


When the engine is cold,check the coolant level.

Make sure it's on max.

===

A coolant system should be flush every two years.

===

If you did a coolant flush recently then air pocket can be the cause of the un-even heating problem.

The DIY method is to drive you car onto a ramp or a steep hill.

Iet the engine cool off and top off the coolant tank.

Set MAX heat + MAX fan

Let the engine ran for 20 minutes wih the cap off and the trap air will escape from the coolant reserve tank,

Check coolant level and top off coolant when the engine cools down.



A shop will charge $75+ for this but using an air operated excavate tool!

========

A car with over 90K miles may experience linkage problem to the heater control valve.

The heater control valve (near the firewall) may be stick over time.

Open the hood and move the heater to max and min. Back and forth.

Clean and lube the linkage with WD-40 to free the heater control valve.

If it's a vacuum type heater control valve then cash for leaky vac. hoses.


=======
Move the fan switch back and forth to re-new the electrical conductors.

Pass a vacuum over the control panel to prevent dust build up behind the console.

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1 Answer

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Does it still blow out the floor and defrost when you set the switch to those positions or does it alway blow out the defrost no matter what? If you can get air to blow out to the floor, then it sounds like you lost the switch that controls the airflow to the vents. If it only blows out the defrost, then you probably lost the vacuum to all of the switches. When the vacuum is lost, it will only blow out the defrost. Check the smallest line on the vacuum distribution block located in the corner near the brake master cyclinder. That line provides the vacuum to control the direction of airflow within the cabin.

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1 Answer

Switch on dashboard does not change air direction to flow & vents


Defrost is the default mode so if the system fais, you alays have defrost. The mode doors are controlled by vacuum motors. I would suspect a vacuum leak in the engine compartment on the hose going from the engine through the firewall and into the heater controls. Some systems have a vacuum storage canister that can also leak. The canister stores vacuum when vacuum drops going up a hill.
Or, you have a bad heater control head that is not passing vacuum to the vacuum motors on the mode doors.

Here's a diagram of the system for reference.

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Feb 15, 2009 | 1999 Ford F150 Regular Cab

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