Question about 1995 Ford Econoline

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XG FALCON UTILITY (AUSTRALIAN) VACUUM SCHEMATICS

The in-cabin directional airflow doesn't work. I've had a look at the vacuum switch. There is no vacuum tube into the second inlet from the left (next to the black); and I get a vacuum noise - like there should be a tube there. When I block the black I can get air to the screen. But this is only temporary; and doesn't properly solve the problem. Any suggestions.

p.s. I had to describe the car as an econoline - because that's the only 1995 model that the product dropdown would accept. But the car is a utility (same as a pick up).

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6 Suggested Answers

emissionwiz
  • 61037 Answers

SOURCE: dpfe sensor broke in the REF tube

One hose is reference the other is pressure, the hoses are different sizes, do you have the factory high-temp silicone hoses required? they are different sizes so you can't mix them up, vacuum hose will burn up in short order, the failure of this sensor is almost always caused by excessive exhaust back pressure, you may have a cat converter starting to plug up.

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

  • 76 Answers

SOURCE: Car hesitates and runs rough at low RPM's....worse

rough sounds comes even if u r in slow speed with high gear...if it s automatic gear then the prb is with the engine...jus give for engine test in u r nearby service station!!!!

Posted on Jul 25, 2009

  • 1129 Answers

SOURCE: 99 ford f250 truck 5.4 need vacuum line schematics

Try ebaymotors they have repair manuals on cd that are inexpensive and have electrical schematics as well as vacuum diagrams. $15.00 - $20.00

Posted on Aug 06, 2009

  • 109 Answers

SOURCE: cannot find vacuum resivoir canister on 2001

on the passenger side under the air filter compartment

Posted on May 17, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: my 1997 ford f150 heater

I need a vacuum check valve that is behind the battery. Where can I get and after market part.

Posted on Apr 07, 2011

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: need vacuum diagram for 1979 ford-460 engine w/AC and air pump.

i need adiagram for a 1979 ford ranchero 351 clev.2 barrel

Posted on Jul 25, 2011

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Does your vehicle have a cabin filter? If so, recommended change interval is 15,000 miles. If you have not changed it recently and/or you park under tree's, I will bet that the filter has more leaves on it than your driveway.

Okay, I've dealt with this a time or two. Surely, the dealer checked or mentioned the cabin filter?!!
How about airflow out of the dash vents, and....wait for it....a vacuum leak. I'm sure the dealer mentioned and checked all this stuff. But just in case he didn't....try these:

With or without a cabin filter, debris can get into the system over time and partially clog the airflow thru the system. The blower motor must be removed and using a light and mirror, one can look into the duct work and see the blower side of the heater core, and evaporator, as well as the drainpan. They should be fairly clean. If not, you will need to have it cleaned out.

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All the controls and actuators and electronic's would take hours to explain. So, read the following and go from there.

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

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Make sure it's on max.

===

A coolant system should be flush every two years.

===

If you did a coolant flush recently then air pocket can be the cause of the un-even heating problem.

The DIY method is to drive you car onto a ramp or a steep hill.

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Check coolant level and top off coolant when the engine cools down.



A shop will charge $75+ for this but using an air operated excavate tool!

========

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=======
Move the fan switch back and forth to re-new the electrical conductors.

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Here's a diagram of the system for reference.

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