Question about 2009 Toyota RAV4
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
NO the engine oil only tops off the engine it self and the gear box uses a different oil and to top it off and check is different from the engine dip stick. Good luck and your manual should tell you when it's time to service your gear box oil.
Posted on Sep 16, 2009
Testimonial: "thanks very helpful go get gearbox oil noww"
Go to Google and enter "youtube toyota camry oil change." This is a fairly good video on how to address the oil change procedure that should be similar to your (and my) 2010 Camry LE, 2.5L; not exact, but you'll get the idea. Also, Google "Avalon oil change pdf" and click on the '05/'06 Avalon item to get a printable version that should also give help/hints for your 2010 2.5L. Now all we have to do is get permission from Toyota to waive the requirement for "only" 0W20 synthetic ($$$) in favor of either less expensive and more readily available 5W20 or 0W30 and extend the change interval from a very low 5000 miles to something more reasonable like 7500 miles or, better still, 10K! I've written to them to see what kind of answer they'll give, but am not hopeful of relief on that front. By the way, Lisle says their filter removal tool Pt. No. 54930 is the correct one and should be available from O'Reilly's Auto Parts; if not on shelf, should be orderable. Good Luck.
Posted on Nov 19, 2009
The transmssion fluid is drained from the bottom of the transmission. There should be a plug in the side that you remove to drain it. Once you have found that and drained it then its not over yet. You will need to leave what ever you have catching the olf fluid under there while you come up and start the motor. Make sure the emergency brake is on and the car is in neutral. The Torque converter holds most the fluid and needs to be started to circulate it. While it is running you should kneel down and watch until it slows down to a drip. Shut the engine off and replace the plug. If for some reason there is no plug to take out you will need to take off the pan that has quit a few bolts around it. If you go that far you will need a replacement gasket and might as well replace the filter inside. If they give you a cork type gasket it will most likly be all curly qued and hard to straighten out. I take some vasiline to stick it to the bottom of the pan and lining the holes back up. Thats the old style and they may give you the new type with precut slots. Be sure the old gasket is scraped off the pan and the transmission for a good tight seal.
When you have it all back together and are ready to refill it then you need to ask the parts store how many quarts your model holds. Could be as many as 8 quarts but most smaller rigs are 6 I think. you will want to put half of them in right a way and then start the car up in neutral and let the coverter sock it back in. Once you see it showing on the dip stick, remember that the measuring marks are measured in pints unlike oil which is in quarts. As far as oil type and grade you might find the answer on the driver side door panel either on the door or the chassis where it latches. Should be a sticker will all the specs. Otherwise ask the parts guy when you pick up the oil and tranny fluid. You will want to change the oil filter too while changing oil. The filter will hold a quart of the old dirty oil and yo don't want it mixed in the good new oil. I just drive a screw driver through the casing of the oil filter and turn but it should only be hand tight any ways so try that first. This is if you don't have a removal tool. Have a pan under it if you have to use the screw driver. The new one going in should only be put on as tight as you can turn it. Take a dab of clean oil and rub on the rubber gasket of the filter before you put it back on. This will help it get a good seal. So I hope I have been of help to you and you will be kind with the thumbs up rating> I could use the good marks. Let me know how it turns out, Raz
Posted on Apr 19, 2010
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