Question about 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Conv

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I bought a new relay for the radiator fan (1990 Olds Cutlass Supreme), it cost me $5. The coolant has gotten as high as 240 degrees and still the fans don't kick on. Problem is, I don't know where the relay is located. The panel on the passenger front inner fender is missing the cover so I don't know what the relays and fuses in it are for. I suppose I can run it until it reaches 230 and then swap each relay with this new one. I would rather just replace the right one....

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  • Brett Duxbury
    Brett Duxbury Jun 04, 2017

    Hi jdubwordman, Each relay has a coil that when feed a small current that creates a magnetic field that pulls the switch contacts together in the relay. If you short out the two contact terminal sockets with a small piece of wire that are switched by the relay with the relay removed from the socket you might see the fan turn on or whatever device is connected to each relay. It depends on if the current going to the coil is from the temperature sensor as this method would bypass it to figure out if the fan works and if the relay is at fault?
    if it is then you can bypass the sensor by shorting out the switch contact wires in the relay block socket that the relay plugs into.
    the relay should show on its side which contact pins are the switched pin/ terminals

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  • Oldsmobile Master
  • 45,373 Answers

The fan relay is activated from the ECM which gets the message from the coolant temperature sensor to switch the fans on ( more than likely the problem)
they should be running at 85 c or well before 212 F so check fuses (2) for failure and check for power to the relay as well to check if the fans are spinning freely
the fan relay will have an emblem on the cover and be situated next to the battery in the big block of relays

Posted on Jun 04, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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bbtoast
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SOURCE: 1993 cutlass supreme run hot

A common problem is that the electric fan will not operate. You need to determine if the fan is coming on when the vehicle gets warm.

When you replaced the coolant, were you sure that you got all of the air out of the cooling system? If you have any air in the system, it will cause your system to run hot!

Regards

Brian

Posted on Sep 06, 2008

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SOURCE: fuel pump for 1995 olds cutlass supreme

No you will have to drop tank to access fuel pump.

Posted on Feb 06, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Need the Location of the temperature sensor on 95 olds cutlass.

The image isn't loading, so I can't tell if this has been 100% answered, but here's the text version:

Should be a fuse panel under the hood, passenger side near the coolant tank and radiator inlet. In that panel should be 2 large square fuses. These are fuse/relay combo deals. Switching these out should fix you right up. Mine had the same problem about a month ago and I had to replace them then.

Posted on Feb 21, 2009

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SOURCE: which years/models trannys interchange 1990 olds delta 88 royale

any gm olds , buick caddy, pont, 4speed auto up to 1991 u just got make sure theyre not computer controlled some 91 are n some aint stay away from 84 to 88 they had failures it doesnt really matter about engine size as along its same transmission

Posted on Apr 09, 2009

Molson02536
  • 3854 Answers

SOURCE: how hard is it to replace a intake gasket on a 1994 olds cutlass supreme.3.1 6 cyclinder

It is not an extremely difficult job. time consuming consuming... I've done a 3.4 intake manifold job, which in my opinion (plenty will disagree) is a little easier than a 3.1 manifold. there are just more steps involved with the 3.1 intake.(I haven't had to change the intake gasket on my 3.1 (yet)) If you haven't already, invest in a haynes or chilton manual, whip out your sockets and your gasket remover, and prepare to do battle...
oh, as far as how to tell before you break down the engine... are you having any drive ability problems? Surging idle, stalling... try this, take propane torch (DONT LIGHT IT) but open the valve and let the spray the propane around your intake manifold with the engine running. If the idle drops or the car stalls, there is your intake leak. That trick also works with intake cleaner too.

you may have to remove your push rods to put your new gasket on. Just loosen the rocker arm nuts/bolts and pivot your rocker arms out of the way. If you do remove your push rods, push them into some holes in a cardboard box so that you can replace them EXACTLY in the same position that you got them from. To remove old traces of gasket, you may have to get some spray on gasket remover, let it sit 5 min. then get at it with your scraper. (be careful, remember our engines are aluminum, you don't want to scrape too hard and scar the mating surface).  
After you get all the old gasket off, clean the mating surface with intake cleaner or lacquer thinner. your gasket kit may have come with end seals. if it did not, remember to run a line of RTV sealant on the front and rear ridges of the engine block between the heads (before you install the intake gasket.)

When you re-install your lower manifold, coat your bolts with pipe thread sealant. when you install the lower manifold, tighten the vertical bolts first, then the angle bolts- it will keep the manifold from wiggling around on the gasket.

After you get everything back together and all snug, i would buy some GM top engine cleaner (liquid)(dealer only( part# 1050002) or some sea foam from your local parts retailer. I know this is to clean the carbon and sludge from your intake and your cylinders, but guess where the remainder of the solution ends up? Yep, in your oil. That should clean up any residue you had from the milkshake effect.

To use the GM engine cleaner, just disconnect your favorite vacuum hose leading to the intake (some people just use their brake booster hose) and put it down in the bottle of liquid while the car is running. (don't let the vacuum **** the liquid too fast, you don't want to risk problems. you may have to keep your hand on the throttle to keep it running. when the can is empty, let your car stall or just cut it off. 

Let your car sit about 2 hours, to give the cleaner time to really work. Start your car, let it run for about 20 mins (there will be PLENTY of white smoke, your car is burning off the cleaner and the carbon).

Then change your oil. good luck and hope this helps.

Ok, you're going to need to buy, borrow, or rent a torque wrench. For 3.1 engines 1995 and earlier, rocker arm nuts should be torqued to 18 ft-lbs.

The wire brush probably did less damage than I do on a regular basis with a gasket scraper :D so you should be okay. If you've already drained your oil, (which I suspect you have) then I would just use the wal-mart brand while you do the GM engine cleaner thing. 
  Don't add the cleaner to your oil, just let a vacuum hose, **** it into the intake. Plenty will get in your oil. Getting into your oil and cleaning up the gook is just a fringe benefit. What the cleaner actually does is it cleans up your entire intake path (manifold, injectors, & valves)... I think you'll be happy with the throtle crispness, once you're done with the engine cleaner. 
Oh and for your coolant system, just get some Prestone radiator flush, and follow what the bottle says. If your system is really gooped up, Prestone also has a Super flush for a little extra :2cents:


Posted on May 02, 2009

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Mar 14, 2009 | 1990 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Conv

1 Answer

Need the Location of the temperature sensor on 95 olds cutlass.


The image isn't loading, so I can't tell if this has been 100% answered, but here's the text version:

Should be a fuse panel under the hood, passenger side near the coolant tank and radiator inlet. In that panel should be 2 large square fuses. These are fuse/relay combo deals. Switching these out should fix you right up. Mine had the same problem about a month ago and I had to replace them then.

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