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Connecting rod bearing knock how to open crank case

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Try this url http://www.autopartslib.com/2009/11/10/car/1995-hyundai-sonata-power-steering-gear-box-parts-components. or go to www.autopartslib.com and find your make, and model, and year.

Posted on Oct 04, 2010

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2 Answers

What is the deep internal knock coming from moter on 2002 dodge durango v8


deep lower engine knock can possible be whats called rod knock --where damage to a piston rod either spun bearing ,wrist pin,crack bent causing it to slap on crank or piston cylinder

May 04, 2017 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

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I have a 2001 cadilac deville that has a wicked knock in the engine. it is a rod knock (from the sound) so i figure my options are to change the engine, or change the rod ect. I wanna know if the engine...


Thats going to be a tricky pull. you can actually do BOTH methods fro pulling that motor. Which ever is easier for you would be better.

As far as the rod knock. Rod knock simply means that the rod bearing has spun and is no longer a smooth surface. potentially, you could pull the motor and replace just that rod and bearing if the crankshaft was unaffected. the majority of the time, more work needs to be done. I think in this case, it may be cheaper to remove the motor and replace the crank and bearings. A replacement used motor will probably run about 1k if you can find one at a yard.

Apr 07, 2014 | 2001 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer

My mazda 323 2l 8v EGI has a terrible bearing knock


The only fix is the engine out and a reconditioned unit in.. Bearing knock indicates the rod is hitting on the crank and that is crank repair or replacement as well as the rod.. Long and costly job

Mar 16, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Makes knocking noise that sound like something is loos banging only when jeep warms up and only in gear


TROUBLESHOOTING ENGINE NOISES
A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 07, 2013 | Jeep Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Making knocking sound


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Nissan Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

V6 knocking noise


A KNOCKING SOUND IN THE ENGINE IS MOST LIKELY CAUSED BY ONE OF THE FOLLOWING
1. PISTON SLAP: Makes a sharp metallic noise. Idle engine and short out each cylinder plug. The noise will disappear when plug with bad piston is shorted. Noise will also disappear at acceleration. This can be caused by worn or out of round cylinder, or broken piston ring. Correct problem by re-boring cylinder and/or replacing piston.
2. VALVE NOISE: Makes clicking or rattle noise. Caused by excessive wear on valve stem or lifter, out of adjustment, or stuck valve. Correct by adjusting valve clearance, replace worn valve or lifter, regrind cam, replace valve guide and /or valve. A stuck valve can sometimes be loosened by passing oil through the carburetor while engine is running.

3. ROD BEARING KNOCK: Makes sharp metallic noise similar to a piston slap. Detection is opposite of piston slap. Rod knock is not heard at idle. Knock becomes louder as engine speed is increased. Caused by excessive rod bearing clearance. Correct by adjusting rod bearing clearance to .0015 inches by removing shims. May require re-pouring rod bearing.
4. REAR MAIN BEARING KNOCK: Makes dull knocking or thud noise. Detected at speeds between 20 and 50 MPH. Knock will normally decrease or disappear while pulling or decelerating. Noise will be detected the loudest at normal driving speed, when not pulling or decelerating. Correct by adjusting bearing clearance to .001 to .0015 inches. If knock is excessive, crank should be checked for out of roundness. May need to re-pour all main bearings to correct.
5. TIMING GEAR KNOCK: usually the most difficult to diagnose. If gear is loose or badly worn it will knock in all ranges. Run engine slightly above idle speed. Slowly open and close throttle. Knock will continue to be present, but just as engine slows down knock will become a slight rattle. Remove timing pin and reinsert into timing hole on timing gear cover. Press timing pin tightly against timing gear and accelerate slightly above idle. Knock will significantly be reduced or disappear. Correct by replacing both timing gear and crank gear as a matched set. The two gears should have a backlash clearance of .003 to .004. If more than .009 inch backlash, an oversize (.005) timing gear should be installed.
6. WRIST PIN SLAP: This can not be detected by shorting out the cylinder plugs. Rapidly accelerate and decelerate the engine speed. The engine will pass through a certain speed range when the wrist pin will rattle at about the same pitch as a valve tappet noise. This can be corrected by installing a new wrist pin bushing in the rod or new wrist pin f badly worn. Wrist pin should fit the piston and connecting rod with a tight metal to metal fit. The pin can be pushed into the piston and rod with a slight pressure of the hand. Pin to rod clearance is .0003 to .0005 inches.

Dec 06, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

When I accelerate quickly, there is a knocking/clicking type noise coming from engine area


uh oh, this may not be good. If the sound you hear is actually a "knock" sound that only occurs under hard acceleration, it is quite possible that a main bearing on the crank or connecting rod bearing for the piston is going bad. If so be the case, have this issue addressed ASAP because a failing bearing will not last that long at all...and when the bearing fails, your motor stops.If it is still under warranty take it to the dealership immediately to have the problem fixed.

Oct 24, 2011 | 2005 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

My 96 chrysler lhs has a knocking/rattleing sound coming from the bottom engine and as you push down on the gas the faster you drive the louder it rattles


if the noise is coming from the bottom end of the motor then you have either bad connecting rod bearings or bad crank bearings.if when you snap the throttle you hear a double knock then its connecting rod bearing if not then its crank bearing.a collapsed piston can sound low in the engine and its usually a dull knock noise.if you have the engine running and the noise is there and you pull off one plug wire at a time(and reconnect it after checking) and the noise goes away or mostly goes away with the wire unhooked then the cylinder that the noise changed is the cylinder that has a bad piston.

May 25, 2011 | Chrysler LHS Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

After replacing all the rod and main bearings, and the oil pump, i am still getting a knock from the #1 cylinder.the bearings show no abnormal wear.its a 95 4.0 w/ 110,000 miles and yes i primed the pump,...


Hi...I responded to your earlier post.
I asked if you had plasti-gaged the crank journals before putting it back together. Sometime s one or more journals are more worn than the others and require a slightly over-sized bearing. If one journal is undersize it will cause a knock. Additionally I mentioned that the wrist-pin may be worn (the pivot pin that connects the piston to the connecting rod) An experienced tech can hear the difference...it is a slightly different, double knock. Less likely, but can happen, a piston skirt may be worn. That can sound like a knock. Older 4.0 engines were famous for that but haven't seen one recently. (usually noise subsides a bit as the engine gets hotter) What does your oil pressure look like? sometimes the camshaft bearings can wear enough to lower the crank pressure and cause knocking as well. (unusual but if engine was starved for oil before replacing the crank bearings it is a possibility.)

Jun 19, 2010 | 1994 Jeep Grand Cherokee

2 Answers

How do i stop my rods from knocking


There is no cure for that other than taking out the engine and tearing it down and replacing the rod bearings. There is probably too much clearance between the bearings and the crank journals do to worn bearings.

Dec 21, 2009 | 1997 Buick LeSabre

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