Need 2 know were 2 find the primary ignition wire/color

Here's the most likely color code for the ignition switch wires on your 2005 F250 Super Duty 6.0 Powerstroke: Wire Color Function Pink/Black Accessory Orange Run/Start Light Green/Yellow Start Light Blue/Yellow Ignition Black Ground

NO YEAR TOLD, (NOR COUNTRY OR VIN) 1995 to 2014 .
what?
NO ENGINE TOLD OF MANY, AN SPARK IS NOT THE SAME ON ANY 2 ENGINES OR EVEN YEARS.
THERE IS AN EASY ANSWER.
not told a problem or a job or goal or reason to know this.
coil packs have 2 or 3 pins. primary, power , signal and ground.
distributor engine
2 or 3 coil packs wasted spark
and COPs.
3 different systems
a 27 year span of evolution huge.
answer the wire is on the spark coil.

Does this help. It identifies the color and purpose of different wires.

https://www.modifiedlife.com/1997-pontiac-grand-am-remote-start-install-instructions/

The red and grn are the primary side of the ignition coil. Red is battery+ while ignition key in a run position. The dark green side will be pulsed to battery- by the ECM/TFI.

If you have bat+ on red and zero volts on grn then either the coil primary has opened or the ECM/TFI and or cable has a fault to bat- (ground).

The conventional ignition coil should have a primary resistance of 0.4 to 2 ohms and secondary resistance of 6k to 15k ohms.

you might try starting fluid in air horn to see if it tries to run, then at least you would know it is not an ignition problem and only on the fuel side. Maybe wiring connector to crank sensor is bad. Really not sure how you would check if Anti-theft is preventing starting, but keys are only 1/2 of system and PCM is the other.

I looked that up as I was puzzled myself, and here is what I found:

This:
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: The radio harness does not provide a switched power source. Run a wire to the fuse box for switched power.

Or this:
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Run a primary wire from the back of your radio to your to the steering column and use the brown wire in the ignition switch harness.

Hi Chris
I am not familiar with your particular vehicle. But...
The main reason that an ignition coil would fail is through an open circuit in the primary winding. (Use the ohms section of a multimeter to check for continuity) Now, the only way you can open circuit the primary winding is to burn out the primary winding.
Considering that this connects to 12 volts via the "points" or "contacts". There isn't much to go wrong.
So.... Here's what I think is happening.
From my old auto electrics background.... A coil connects to the vehicles 12 ignition circuit via a special nichrome wire (often inside the wiring harness) This Nichrome wire acts as a Resistor before the 12v current reaches the Coil's Primary winding. This cuts down the current when the the ignition key is in the running mode. When you start the vehicle, the full 12v current bypasses the resistor to give to a BOOST while starting the vehicle. When the key returns to the Running position the coil is being supplied by the resistance wire so the current is reduced.
Note: There would have been 2 wires connected to the Coil originally. One is 12v from ignition switch "run" position and one from ignition switch "start" position.
If you have wired the vehicle different than the original wiring or have used a different wire then you may actually be running the vehicle directly on 12v from the ignition/battery. This would eventually burn out your coil.
If necessary, add a resistor (large wire wound, ceramic), to the circuit. Purchase or make your own.... once you know how many ohms you require to reduce the current.
Hope this solves your problem. Pitty you have paid for 3 coils before finding out.

Cheers

If you kill primary voltage to the ignition coil, the vehicle shouldn't run. Primary voltage to the coil is the positive side of coil. It's a pink wire comes from ignition switch to ignition coil. There are many ways to do something like this. You can kill spark, you can kill fuel, whatever.

First you should have a Haynes Manual for your specific car that's available at most parts stores. Since it states that your "Ignition Coil B primary or secondary circuit malfunction", then I would first measure the Coils Resistance which is listed in your Haynes Manual. If it comes up incorrectly for the values given, then replace the coil, if not, check the Z2 Circuit which is the Ground to your PCM or computer. It should be a 12 gauge wire, black & tan that's bolted to the Engine block for a corroded condition. This corrosion will throw multiple codes except for the PCM's Ground. In the Haynes Manual there is a wiring diagram of your PCM in the back that, if I'm wrong about the color of the wire, will give you the proper color.

"00 Buck"

ignition timing or valve timing?

ignition timing not setable.

info:
The ignition system consists of an ignition coil, spark plug wires and spark plugs.
The crankshaft position sensor signal is the basis for ignition timing calculations. The alternating voltage signal from the crankshaft position sensor is digitized by the powertrain control module. This digitized signal is then used to position the closing time of the primary circuit of the ignition coil.
Ignition angle is determined by the powertrain control module in response to engine operating conditions. Once ignition angle has been determined, the powertrain control module interrupts the current to the primary circuit of the ignition coil thus triggering the ignition spark which is supplied to the cylinders through the spark plug wires and spark plugs.
The ignition coils are triggered by the powertrain control module in pairs (cylinders 1 and 4 and cylinders 3 and 2) sending one ignition spark to the firing cylinder and one ignition spark to the corresponding cylinder on the exhaust stroke. This make sures that any unburnt fuel residues remaining in the cylinder on the exhaust stroke are re - ignited to provide cleaner exhaust emissions.
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