Question about Dodge Ram 1500

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I have a 1999 dodge ram 4x4. I replaced my brake MC and I bleed the brakes but I am occasionally still getting a soft brake pedal. Any ideas. No leaks and not loosing any fluids.

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You more than likely still have some air in the system. I would recommend you bleed them again. Bleed in this manner. Start at the RR, then move to the LR, then RF, and end at the LF. If you bleed them properly you will remove all the air from the system.

Posted on Oct 03, 2010

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Brake pedal soft


You still have air in the brake system and this becomes evident when the operation of the booster allows the pedal to do down as it is compressing the air in the lines more efficiently than what you can do with your foot. Try starting the bleeding procedure but undoing the lines at the master cylinder and priming the unit first to get the air out of both sides of the unit. Tighten the lines and with the help of a assistant start at the longest line first and work back to the shortest. Booster failure will result in no assistance or engine stopping from a massive vacuum leak when the valves are opened. The abs is just a motor driven pump that supplies pressure to the brake system when the wheel sensors come into operation otherwise the brake pedal pressure is operating through the ABS unit to the brakes. (An ABS is only there to keep the brake pressure constant as the sensor opens and closes a valve to stop the wheel skidding . If it is not working then pressure from the pedal may bleed back leaving you with no brakes.)

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2 Answers

I have a 2007 Dodge Ram 1500. I had to replace the front brake pads, rotors and calipers. After bleeding the brakes I still have a soft pedal. when pressing it the pressure builds up but after pumping then...


bench bleed the master cylinder then start bleeding at the rear passenger then rear driver, front passenger then finally front driver hopefully that helps you

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99 ford explorer brake pedal goes to floor. Booster or master cyl. ?


Not likely that the booster is an issue. The booster would not be able to overcome the brake fluid compression.
First open and inspect all brakes for leaks, adjustment, etc. Check all brake lines.
So if no leaks, did the fluid go low in the MC? If so, pad consumption would eat more than a MC reservoir of fluid, and not require MC replacement, but rebleeding and top up of fluid. If the pads are worn, and you replace them, often this will expel air back through the MC.

If you determine the MC is faulty, bench bleed the new one before install, or you will have lots of problems getting air out....

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I am working on a 2004 dodge caravan with a soft brake problem.i have replaced the rear shoes and adjusted rear brakes,also replaced front rotors and pads.i have also replaced the master cylinder.after...


try bleeding the master cylinder at the lines first as it indicates that there is still air in the pistons
loosen one line at a time and gently apply the brakes until any air bubbles come out tighten the line before releasing the brake pedal
do it for the other line and then bleed all the brakes starting at the longest line first and ending at the shortest line

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1 Answer

1999 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4. Abs & Brake light on Brake pedal goes almost to floor. I was pulling bushes out when problem occured. Pedal making sucking type sound added about 10 oz. Of brake fluid right...


Sounds lie we have a brake line or brake hose problom.
have one person step on the brake the other look underneith and see where it is leaking, describe to me where is iss ill help ya get it fixed

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2001.5 Dodge Ram Diesel 2500 4x4 Brake Pedal drops to floor


It sounds like you have a bad mastercylinder cause when you panic brake it doesn't have time to bleed through the valve in the cylinder but under normal braking your foot is on pedal longer in turn giving the fluid time to bypass the valve in the mastercylinder in turn the pedal going to the floor.

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1 Answer

My stepdads 1999 Dodge Ram 1500 has been sitting for almost 3 years. The brake pedal will not retract all the way. Have to put my toe under it to pull it back. What should I do?


Try doing the following: Bleed the system, starting with the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder, working your way to the wheel closest. Bleed the system to completely replace the fluid. This is a good idea, as sitting for 3 years is bad for the brake and fuel systems. The brake fluid may be contaminated (small amount of condensation in the system can cause failure of calipers and brake cylinders) If the pedal is still hanging up, and not returning all the way, you probably will have to replace the master cylinder.

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did you bleed the brakes in the proper order? RR LR RF LF. check rubber lines for deterioration or BULGING when you apply brakes.

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1999 Chevy Tahoe- Soft Brake Pedal


Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.

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