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What should the cam shaft pully align with for top dead center on a 99 toyota camery with a 2.2 engine/

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See picwhat should the cam shaft - 5b70115.gif

Posted on Oct 03, 2010

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How do i know if i have my timing chain on correct?


okay first you make sure the timing marks on the pullys or gears are lineing up also you find #1 cylinder pull out spark plug place a long phillips head scew driver into the hole turn the main crank it should rise and fall get the lower part of the engine to where the scew driver stops rising and right before it falls you should be at top dead center on the lower part of the engine. turn the cam shaft till the timing mark on the pully or gear is at top dead center (TDC). but you should have timing marks on the crank shaft pully and the cam shaft gear or pully I recomend a chiltons or haynes manual so you can locate these marks.

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Need to change timming belt 1997 geo tracker


TIMING BELT CHANGE You should have some mechanical skills before attempting any engine maintenance! These are basic instructions, and you must knoe what you removed, when, and what order so you can reinstall them in order. First, you have to remove everything in the way! You need to remove the Fan, clutch, and shroud, pump pully & drive belts. Next, you need to remove the Crank Pully:

1. Crank Pully Bolt 2. Crank Pully 3. Center Bolt 4. 5mm Hex drive (used to remove pully bolts) Once the fan stuff, and pully(s) are removed, then you need to remove the Timing Belt cover:

Once the cover is removed, you will need to loosen the adjusting nut and pully bolt on the Belt Tensioner:
A. Adjust Nut B. Pully Bolt C. TENSIONER PULLY Once the the Adjust Nut, and Pully bolt are loose, move the pully as far towards the water pump as possible.
Then, you can slip the timing belt from the sprockets. Check the tensioner for roughness and excess play! DO NOT MOVE THE CAM OR CRANK SPROCKETS! IF you do, then you will have to line up the Crank and Cam for piston number one at Top Dead Center before placing the new timing belt on! Note the timing marks on the crank and camshaft sprockets. IF YOU MUST! Allign the Cam and Crank at piston#1, Top Dead Center before removing the belt. Each sprocket has a small hole, with a line through it, and there is a small groove or "V" it alligns with on the engine. Now, once the timing belt is off, look at your new timing belt. Older belts use the Squared off teeth, while new ones have the rounded teeth. Make sure you have the correct belt for your sprockets! Never reinstall a belt that is in questionable condition. BELT WEAR CONDITIONS
If there are Arrows on the belt, they must be pointing to the RIGHT when you put the new belt on the sprockets. If there isn't one, then paint one on, and place the belt back on the sprockets. The arrow will indicate to a mechanic, this is the way the belt must be put back on (if they replace any cam or crank oil seals). Slip the new belt onto the Crank sprocket. While maintaining tension on the side of the belt opposite the tensioner, slip the belt onto the Camshaft sprocket. Releace the Tensioner adjusting nut to allow spring tension against the belt. Temporarily reinstall the crank pully, taking care to align the notch in the pully with the raised area on the sprocket. Rotate the crank clockwise two complete revolutions. Recheck the alignment of the of the valve timing marks. If they do not align properly, loosen the tensioner, slip the belt off the crank pully, align the timing marks, reinstall the belt, and check alignment again. Tighten the tensioner nut, then the bolt. Reinstall all parts removed, in the opposite order, of course. Start the engine and allow to reach normal operating temp, then road test. THEORETICALLY, you should simply be able to replace the belt with the new one, and go, as long as you did not move any of the sprockets when removing or installing the belt. Most people do it this way, and do not test for alignment before replacing everything. When the belt wears, timing will be off, very little, and this is why you check alignment. The belt may have slipped a tooth, making the timing off. This is why the Cam and Crank sprockets must both align properly. An experienced person will do just that: Replace the belt, and go. It really isn't all that hard. It helps to have a second person around with some experience also.

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1 Answer

How to set timing marks when changing the timing belt 1995 kia sportage 2.0liter


There is a DOHC or SOHC (double or Single overhead cam engone. Both are Similar. Both have a notch on back side of crank pully that aligns with a tab on engine just above crank pully looks like a triangle with the tip near crank pully is rounded off. SOHC engines have an arrow on cam pully that aligns with a point at top of timing belt rear housing. about straight up at top of it. DOHC have an I and an E on the cam pullys I for INTAKE and E for EXHAUST. the I and E match up at same type points on top of rear Timing belt housing. When installing belt make sure you do not move pullys. put belt on starting with cam shaft (s) then down to crank on tension side which looking at motor will be the right side or Clockwise direction keeping it tight no, or EXTREEMLY little slack. then back up around tensioner. Tensioner should be the last pully to go around. Once on make sure timing marks still lline up.Adjust tensioner and. rotate engine BY HAND 4 times and re check marks.

Oct 09, 2009 | 1995 Kia Sportage

1 Answer

Hondai sonota


Which engine? 4 cylinder (2.4 lit) or V6 (2.7 lit)? Two different procedures as well as different belts. The 4 cylinder also has a balance belt. See next image:
42e8a57.jpg
Here's the 2.7 V6 belt:

44efb27.jpg
The replacement procedure is nearly the same at the start (removing, accy drive belts, pullys, support engine & remove front engine mount, remove T.B covers, disconnect Cam Position Sensor & Crank Position Sensor connectors, etc.). When you get to this point on the V6, you also have to remove the front engine mounting bracket from the front of the engine (4 14mm bolts, also a 12mm bolt which bolts the dipstick tube to the side of it) Put crank shaft at TDC (top dead center w/ALL timing marks aligned) remove hydraulic tensioner (2 12 mm bolts), then remove the belt. You'll need to recompress the hydraulic (auto) tensioner in a vise and insert a retaining pin through the pin-holes at the top (through the tensioner piston) to keep it compressed when you reinstall it. Otherwise, you won't be able to install it. Assembly is reverse order of dissassembly. Inspect your pullys while you're in there (check for pully bearing noise, leaking grease, smooth rotation, also the water pump pully, etc.) Replace components as needed. Careful not to damage Crankshaft Position Sensor wire harness.

The 4 Cylinder is quite different. You not only change the timing belt, but also the countershaft (balance) belt, which is behind the crank position sensor blade. IMPORTANT: ALL TIMING MARKS ALIGNED BEFORE REMOVING ANYTHING) There are two (2) counter-shafts (balance shafts). one driven by the timing belt, the other by the crankshaft sprocket behind the timing belt sprocket at the front of the crankshaft.
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1 Answer

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Think you have to put a flat bar across the back of the cam shafts same as the old ZETEC ford motors. Failing that are the vernier pullies marked with eithr O T or do they have a - or a . that line up with a position on the end of the cylinder head.

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There is a special tool that mechanics use for the alignment of the camshaft pullys. It is basically an angle iron straight edge that fit exactly into the camshft grooves.. Just make sure that the engine 's first cylinder is at the top. (Top dead center) before fitting the cam(s) into place.

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remove the crankshaft,make sure that the plugs are removed ,line up the timming marks on tdc,(top dead center) remove alternator belt.remove all the plastic covers check the move ment in the water pump and the cam belt tennsioner if it has one as the water pump does the same job.

remove all old bits of the old belt.

alignment of the cam shaft(s) with a dot and arrow on them both.rebuild with a new toyota or gates belt.when all back in place turn the engine by hand ,there should be no tight spots.then fit crankpully.

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The crank shaft pully will need removal and the water pump pully as well, also the 2 inspection covers and the center housing cover that they conect with, when removed all of the timing belts will be exposed as well as crank shaft end. I used a screw driver angled wedged and held in on the teeth of the fly-wheel to lock it in position so I could remove the crank shaft pully bolt, (standard lefty-loosey threaded). This would have been easier with the fly-wheel locking tool from subaru, or even just a budy to hold the fly-wheel while i turned the bolt loose at the crank pully. I unbolted the fan and slid it out of the way, I did not even need to unplug it. just be sure battery is not conected. The oil dip-stick tube has one 12 mm bolt at the end of a brace at top of engine. loosen and pull up and forward to remove. the crank shaft bolt-you will need to put back in the bolt only! on the end of the crank shaft so you can rotate the engine manualy with a socket on the crank shaft pully nut, while looking through the hole on the top of rear engine area just above fly wheel. wach fly wheel as it turns, look for 3 lines side by side these are not the timing degree marks they are seperate from them, align them to the little arow on the houseing in front of the 3 little marks. be sure the e-brake is set, trany in nutral so engine can turn freely. inspect the cam shaft pullies, on the surface there are 4 evenly spaced holes, there is one tiny hole that lays between the other holes, this little hole that is the pully mark, it needs to be at the twelve oclock position, there is a small groove on the housing at the twelve oclock position as well. align the two with each other, the little hole with the little notch directly above. do the same for the other side cam pully, same way. loosen the idler pulies for each belt, 2 bolts, move it to its full retracted position, pushing on it with fngers against spring tention, titen one of the nuts so the pully stays retracted/pushed. remove old belts, being carefull not to move the place marks of either of the 2 cam shafts or the engine crank placement. put in the new belts check to see if belt has a direction of dravel and match with engine, mine it did not matter but was told that it may with other belt makers? i don't know about that? but thought it was worth the warning?
once belts are on be sure again that marks all mate with marks on all 3 points crank and fly-wheel, both cam shaft pullies with notchs, now release the tnsion on the idler pullies, and retighten where they fell. check again on the 3 timing points be sure they have not moved again... tireing but worth it. if the have moved off of any mark you must realign it by moveing the pully to the rite spot and putting the belt back on. one tooth off on the drivers side of engine cam can meen up to 16 degrees of timing lose either way of perfect. once aligned, put the center cover back over the crank shaft, bolt on. put on the oil dip stick, put on the water pump pully and crank shaft pully, put on belts. leave the fans out untill all is done, just be sure they are free of obstacles so if they come on later it does no harm to it, you, or anything else. leave off the inspection covers at each cam pully. be sure to un block the fly-wheel. re asemble engine and componants to the installed normal positions as best as posible. re conect battery, be sure all tools are clear, start engine, if it will not run smoothly re set the distributer for timing, if still runs bad, you may have one or both cams off by plus or minus 1-2 teeth one the belts. this was hell... you have to move one side one tooth and start the engine and time it again, if that was not it then you move one tooth in in the oposite direction from the oiginal spot, now 2 teeth the oposite way. if not better put back on the original tooth, and do the same to the other cam one step and start at a time untill you find it to work the best, it may even be off by 1 tooth on the rite and 1- tooth on the left. This was a nite-mare but i finaly found the rite placements.
take 2 aspirin, advil, etc. pre-medicate for the manditory headache. and best of luck..
if you are wondering if the valves and the pistons may have struck, forget it subaru made this 1.8l engine as a none contacting engine, this meens that they can never touch piston to valves even in a cam belt failure.

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