Question about 1998 Ford Expedition

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Why can't I change the temperature from cold to hot inside my vehicle? The heater core was replaced 1 year ago.

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Try to check your heater check valve.. maybe its not working...

Posted on Oct 03, 2010

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2009 pontiac g6 heater blows cold


Have you checked your actuator ? Internal mechanical / electronic flap that allows warm coolant from engine to run inside your car into heater core.

With vehicle at operating temperature, touch both heater hose inside engine compartment by firewall. They should both be warm/hot if actuator is good. If one is cold, bad actuator or clogged heater core.

Dec 07, 2016 | Pontiac Cars & Trucks

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Nice tip! I replaced my heater core about a year ago so I don't really think...


f041a09.jpgWhen dealing with a clogged heater core causing poor or no heat situation, I've had good success doing it myself, for about $25-$30 . First thing to look at is if you can get to your heater hoses, as some may be a nightmare, others are easily accessible, but the closer you can get to the heater core, where the hoses go into the firewall, the better. Many will allow you to remove the heater hoses right at the firewall which is ideal.
With engine cool, I simply remove the heater hoses (after draining down the system and making sure I don't spill antifreeze on the ground where animals can get to it, which if ingested could more than likely kill them), and attach a drill pump, and hose to one of the heater core tubes, then get an extra piece of garden hose, and attach it to the other core tube, and cut it long enough to run it back into a pail, as a return line, to recover the cleaning solution. The hose on the suction side of the drill pump also goes in to the pail. Then add 1 or 2 jugs of CLR, (calcium, lime, rust remover) available at most hardware stores, into the pail as my cleaning solution. With pressure side hose from pump attached to heater core tube, and other hose(suction) from pump inside pail to draw liquid, as well as return hose from core in pail, start up the drill pump, which can be driven with electric, or cordless drill. I circulate it through for a while, then stop and let it sit in the core to work at the calcium etc inside the core for a few minutes, longer the better. After running it through a few times that way, I reverse the hoses at the core, and run it through again, like a reverse flush, and repeat as above, letting it sit in there for a while from time to time. I will normally do this when it isn't urgent that the vehicle be used soon, and if at all possible, I will let the CLR sit in the core overnight just to give it that extra time to break things down inside that core. Then next morning, I will run it through again, and reverse hoses again, run it some more, then I'm done. Remove all hoses, re-attach heater hoses to core, and start vehicle, re-fill cooling system, with heater turned on to remove air in system, and your done. I found this quite effective as well on vehicles that tend to blow cooler air when idling, but get warmer when RPM's are increased, just due to less restriction now in heater core, allowing coolant to flow through better at idle as well as higher RPM's. I've saved $100's if not $1000's of dollars this way, not to mention a lot of aggravation trying to change the heater core. Even if it doesn't get you back to the heat you were getting when vehicle was new, if money is tight, or your just trying to make the vehicle last a little longer before your ready to replace it, this will probably get you the heat you need to get you through until it's warmer outside. If you can't get to the hoses at the firewall location, try following them back toward engine to a location that may be easier to work from. There you would want to buy a couple of "Barbed" fittings (Joiners) the proper size to enable you to cut heater hoses, attach hoses from pump, then re-attach heater hoses together when done. Be sure to get good quality fittings, and re-check for leaks after/occasionally, to be sure. Be sure to check also, that there isn't some type of valve restriction or whatever in the hose between where your planning on cutting hose and the heater core where it's attached, that will not allow flow through, as well as out on return hose. Be sure to store or dispose of cleaning solution (CLR) in a safe place. It does have other cleaning abilities, as labeled on the jug, and a simple coffee filter in a funnel, to filter out the debris from core and poured back into jugs will allow you to re-use it elsewhere, but if you do, please remember it has been contaminated with antifreeze, and if re-used for cleaning or whatever, make sure it's not an application where it may be ingested by animals, or humans. Best bet for safety sake, is to dispose of it properly to avoid that risk. Good luck to all who try it, and please keep me/us informed of results.

on Apr 04, 2010 | Dodge Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

We had some subzero weather while I was on vacation. My 2004 Jaguar was parked outside for several weeks. We had another very cold, icy day, and heater did not work. Fan works, rear window defroster...


What is happening here is that the faster the heater blows air through the fan, the more it cools the liquid in the heater core, and so heat output is reduced. The root of the problem is either the engine is not warming up enough, or the heater core, and/or heater core lines, are plugged up, not allowing the water to circulate properly in the heater core. Here is what I would try.

1. Top off the radiator and overflow.
2. Is the engine warming up properly? Is your temperature gauge showing normal temperatures? If it is not, then replace the thermostat.
3. If steps 1 and 2 do not solve the problem, get the vehicle in a shop, locate the heater core lines, take them apart and flush out the heater core. Look for blockages in the fittings. Do a flow test on the core. It may be clogged and need to be replaced.

Jan 08, 2015 | 2004 Jaguar X-Type

1 Answer

Vehicle won't blow hot air. The fan works, but only cool air regardless of the temperature setting


IF YOU HAD A BAD HEATER CORE OR WATER LEAKING INSIDE THE CAR THEY PROBABLY BYPASS YOUR HEATER CORE. THE HEATER CORE IS WHAT CAUSE THE INSIDE THE CAR TO WARM UP

Nov 17, 2012 | 2005 Chevrolet Blazer

2 Answers

I dont have any heat and i need to know how to replace the hearter core, however the windows aren't fogging up so maybe its the thermostat


the only way you should have to replace a heater core is if it leaks or gets plugged up. When motor is hot feel the two hoses that go to the heater core. one should be fairly hot and the other should be the same but if one is just warm then follow hose and locate a flow valve and check for operation. OPening and closing with control hot /cold knob. Check coolant level in radiator while cold as well as fill reservoir to full when cold. Also remove radiator cap when cold and warm truck and check for flow of coolant. if lower radiator hose is hot hot hot and upper hose is cool then thermostat may not be opening properly, or thermostat is stuck open not building heat. You didnt mention if truck was overheating?? If its not i'd check for the flow valve operation, if it is i'd make sure coolant levels are full and waterpump is working.

Feb 03, 2011 | 1994 Chevrolet Astro

1 Answer

My blower for heat is only blowing cold air. I have checked all fuses and have changed the thermostat. I think its the control inside the dash that regulates how cold or hot the air is


If the heater core (2 heater core tubes at firewall) is hot and the interior is cold, then the blend door is causing your problem. It is controlled by electrical and vacuum components.

Also, note that the heater core tubes have a valve that is replaced with the entire hose.

Also, the heater core, if plugged can be replaced as follows:
Heater Core REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
  1. Disable the SIR system, as outlined in this section.
  2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  3. Properly drain the cooling system.
  4. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  5. Detach the heater hoses from the heater core.
  6. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  7. Remove the instrument panel. For details, please refer to the procedure located in Section 10 of this manual.
  8. Remove the DERM with the attaching bracket.
  9. Detach the heater core cover.
  10. Unfasten the heater core mounting clamps, then remove the heater core. Fig. 1: Exploded view of the heater core and related components 87956021.gif
    To install:
  11. Position the heater core, then secure with the mounting clamps.
  12. Attach the heater core cover.
  13. Install the DERM with the attaching bracket.
  14. Install the instrument panel, as outlined in Section 10 of this manual.
  15. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
  16. Connect the heater hoses to the core.
  17. Carefully lower the vehicle.
  18. Properly refill the engine cooling system and check for leaks.
  19. Enable the SIR system.
  20. Connect the negative battery cable, then start the engine and check for proper system operation and/or leaks.
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Jan 16, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Sunfire

1 Answer

Heater stoped workin and blows cold air, how do ya fix it


Hi


The a/c and heating systems on cars today are pretty complex. 10 years ago replacing the thermostat usually did the trick, but today there are electric motors that operate the "blend doors" inside the dash…directing air flow from the heater core and A/C evaporator core to the cab of the vehicle. Always start by checking the actual coolant level inside the radiator itself to make sure it is full.

Then feel the upper and lower radiator hoses to see if they are hot (when the engine has been running awhile and has reached normal operating temperature), then feel the two heater hoses leading into the cab of the vehicle to see if they are both hot as well.

If you feel a drastic difference in one of the radiator hoses, I would try replacing the thermostat and see what happens. If all the heater and radiator hoses are pretty much the same temperature I would suspect there to be a control problem in the dash controls or in the blend door operation and a visit to you dealer or a qualified mechanic is my recommendation.



Thanks

Rylee



Dec 21, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet S-10 CA Edition

1 Answer

2001 crysler town & Country 3.3. when it gets really cold the engine wont warm up. heater doesn't work. replaced thermostat and water pump. still no heat


Hello Justin.
If your thermostat has been replaced with the proper one your engine is heating up.
The problem then becomes twofold.
The amount of coolant/antifreeze flowing through the heater core or a problem with the airflow over the core inside the heater plenum assembly.
I would check for coolant flow through the core first.
If the heat feels like it is warmer coming out an outlet with the fan on a low setting rather than a high one your heater core isn't flowing enough.
To verify you can also check the two hoses that go through the firewall to your heater core once the vehicle has been warmed up, feel the temperature difference between the two. They should both be almost hot enough not to hang on to and close to equal temperature. A hand held temperature gun is really handy for doing this.
If one is hotter than the other your heater core has restricted flow and will need to be flushed or replaced.
Next is to check your temperature blend door operation.
Move the control to hot and cool and listen for the door to move and feel for the temperature to change, if it does at all. The fan on low setting is best to listen and feel temperature changes.
If you feel a temperature change or hear the door thump at each end of it's travel it is OK.
If you have more questions on this problem leave it in "add a comment" and I will return your question.

KL

Dec 12, 2009 | Chrysler Town & Country Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Heater blowing cold air


Hi!
It appears we have an Air lock scenario and you will need to perform a system Bleed.
Park the vehicle on level ground, when cold remove coolant filler cap, start engine and leave to idle, turn heater on full and blower to max. When engine reaches operating temperature watch and listen near coolant filler, keep clear as gurgling and hopefully a boil over should occur. Top up with very warm coolant and wait as it may do it again.
Check for heat inside vehicle if warm replace coolant cap but keep an eye on temperature gauge as the ~Air lock may have moved on from heater matrix/core so proceedure needs to be carried out again from COLD.
If No change then look at thermostat but I'm sure your problem lies with the heater Matrix/Core!
Please press the Blue button to appraise my FREE Efforts, Thank You!
Paul 'W' U.K.

Feb 06, 2009 | 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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