Question about 1990 Mazda MX-5
After removing the cowling around the steering colume to get at the switch, unfortunately the switch is held on by security bolts which can only be removed by drilling them out.New bolts have a hexegon head which shears off when tightened. There is no easy way around this problem .
hope to have been of some help to you
Posted on Mar 01, 2011
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Mazda MX5 tiorque settings
Its all about firing speed & firing sequence,
tr yo to got to showroom or branded certified mechanic or you can do yourself if have experience about all this settings,
this will defenatly increase your 100% torque,
But do all this with care,takes time,
Posted on May 20, 2008
SOURCE: mazda mx5
1st thing to check is the battery. The clicking noise can be caused by a battery that isn't being charged properly (alternator problem), or most likely a battery that's reached the end of it's lifespan. How old is the battery? Have it checked at a parts store, it should be a free service, as they hope to sell what u need to fix it. Let me know what u find. good luck! countrycurt0
Posted on Oct 05, 2008
SOURCE: unable to obtain a manual
If you want a repair manual, go to an auto parts store, they have haynes repair manuals for different vehicles. If you want an owners manual, go to dealer and see if they can get one.
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
This sounds like a pretty common problem with a lot of cars - my guess is that your solenoid for your starter motor or maybe even the starter motor itself is faulty.
A simple test to verify that you have a starter motor/solenoid problem is to turn on your headlights before attempting to start your car. When it starts sucessfully, your headlights should dim briefly. When you try to start it and achieve little more than a clicking noise, you'll notice the headlights aren't dimming because the starter motor isn't drawing an additional load from the battery.
Now - to diagnose your problem and fix it:
1. Check your battery voltage with a multimeter - you should have 12.5V or so across the terminals - any less than about 11.8 and you should think about a new battery whilst you're at it. However, as it seems to start fine sometimes, I'm going to assume this is not the problem
2. Check that you're getting power from the ignition switch to the solenoid. The light-dimming check should help you out on this one, however, we'll make doubly sure. Locate your starter motor and the solenoid (the solenoid will be wired to the starter motor - the circuit is basically battery, ignition key switch, solenoid and starter motor). Disconnect the ignition cable from the solenoid (this is the heavier cable) and put a multimeter from it to ground (somewhere metal on the chassis). Get someone to turn the key to ON and check for 12V at the ignition cable. (Always put the car in neutral and the parking brake on etc...). If you don't get 12V here you've got an intermittent connectivity problem and need to trace your wiring back to your ignition switch and from there to the battery and try to find a poor connection or potential short. Judging by the 'clicking' sound, I don't think this is your problem either.
3. Now we want to test the starter motor to ensure it's OK (I think it will be and you'll find the problem is the solenoid). To do this, we need a large screwdriver with an nicely insulated handle. On the SOLENOID, you'll find to large electrical post connectors. Short across these with the screwdriver - be careful to only touch the handle or you're going to think someone has just kicked you in the groin...You should get some serious sparks and hear your starter motor whirring (don't let it run too long or you'll flatten your battery and possibly damage the starter motor). If your starter motor makes any nasty grinding kinds of noises, you need to replace or rebuild it. If it doesn't move, you need to replace it (or get it rebuilt).
4. If none of the other problem have suggested a component at fault, you probably have a faulty or 'sticky' solenoid. To check this, find which of the two heavy post connectors is connected to the starter motor. Place one probe of the multimeter in this wire and ground the other (metal on the chassis). Have someone turn the key (neutral and parking brake) and check the voltage. You should read 12V and hear a 'clunk' from the solenoid (this is the solenoid activating and sending power to the starter motor). If you're getting a low voltage and not hearing a clunk your solenoid is probably on it's way out and needs to be replaced. A quick fix that often works is to have your helper try to start the car and give the solenoid a bit of a tap with a rubber mallet. This might jar the mechanism loose and give the electromagnet a chance to pull it into the connecting position and power your starter motor.
Hope this helps and please don't hesitate to contact me for further assistance as I'm sure I haven't been able to cover everything in this...
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
SOURCE: wont start
I think you're battery has just enough life to turn the engine but not enough to fire it (low voltages tend to mess with the ignition etc)
Stick your battery on a charger (or it might be getting old and need replacing) until you can measure a reasonable 12.5V across the terminals and give it another go. The battery may have been on it's last legs anyway and decided that the punishment was just a bit too much...
I often find I can push start mine if it suffers from a similar act of forgetfulness. I then have to keep my foot on the accelerator for a reasonable period of time to keep the revs up and charge the battery (sometimes it takes a day or so to come completely right again without stalling out at lights etc). The best trick is to take it for a bit of a high-speed burn up some range passes - after it's been flogged for a couple of hours, it'll be much more happy!
Hope this helps, Sherwin
Posted on Sep 01, 2009
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