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1998 NEON WITH A POOR START CONDITION/IDLES ROUGH-LOW ENGINE VACUUM AT 10"/HG NO CODES AND SPARK ADVANCE IS SPORATIC AT BEST-REPLACED CAM/CRANK SENSOR-MAP/INTAKE TEMP SENSOR(FAULTY VACUUM READING. GOING TO CHECK TIMING BELT FOR CORRECT ALIGNMENT-ANY OTHER SUGGESTIONS THANKS

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 148 Answers

SOURCE: engine stalls

your on the right route but also check egr valve

Posted on Jul 07, 2008

  • 3 Answers

SOURCE: PO171 OBD-II Trouble Code " System Lean To Bank 1

Check PCV valve and be sure it is not stuck open.  Check for vacuum leak at intake manifold.  

Posted on Jan 01, 2009

robshow
  • 367 Answers

SOURCE: 2004 kia optima

Try the ignition switch,

For the Crank sensor there is a small metal disc that mounts behind the sensor if that is cracked or dammaged or installed backwards you will get same results as if it wasn't Make sure the timing marks line up on your timing belt. www.kiatechinfo.com

Posted on Jan 19, 2009

  • 145 Answers

SOURCE: CAM SENSOR ENGINE LIGHT. MAX RPM 2000 SOMTIMES

I seen this before first of all don't let the car dealer to BS the way to your money, most of the time is noting wrong whit the sensor it self but is the plug than goes in to the sensor this what i recommend is to buy another sensor from your local auto part store or salvage yard (cheaper) get three pieces of cable and solder directly in to the sensor brake the plastic around the sensor plug if necessary and secure the three cables to it put some silicon in between the solder and the place the new sensor on top of the old one so you now wish wire goes to which and cut and attach one by one. I now this works 100% i have done it my self many times if you need diagrams or sensor locations you can find that at www.alldatadiy.com now if you still have problems unplug all harness especially all the ones than comes from the back of the engine because that engine tends to leak oil on top of the harness if you have wires doing shortcut replace that section you can solder use heat string tube and change the insulation hose they sale those on part stores to put some zip tides on the ends and you will have your car back and will last Note don't let it get to close to the exhaust use zip tides to keep from touching hot areas.

Posted on Jun 10, 2009

krolik7
  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2004 Kia Optima no start after timing belt, crank, cam sensor replacement

did you use aftermarket crank sensor? if so that might be your problem. dealer has several different ones, by providing vin number, but there is only one after market for all optimas 01-05. try to connect thick pink wire and thick orange wire together on the ignition failure sensor. you might have the same problem as me. good luck.

Posted on Jan 15, 2010

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2 Answers

Engine will star and idle but will not increase in power when gas peddle is pressed


The engine in your car is designed to run smoothly with maximum power output and produce as minimal emissions as possible. When your car's engine is not performing properly it can cause, low gas mileage, low power output, increased emissions and possible internal engine damage if left untreated. This troubleshooting guide is designed to isolate the malfunctioning cylinder and troubleshoot to repair the problem. Before we start we need to know one of two things; is the engine running poorly at idle only and seems to be ok under power? Or does the engine run fine and it's just the engine idle condition that is the problem. If your engine is idling rough please visit, engine misfires at idle If your engine cranks over but won't start visit engine wont start. If your engine won't crank over visit engine wont crank over. If your engine is running rough all of the time or intermittently you are in the right place. Below we have created a guide to aid diagnoses and repair procedure for most common rough engine running problems.
Car Repair Guide - READ COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING
  • Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, air bag) inspect all fuses in the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels using a test light. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
  • Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and check if they relate to the specific problem, like an ignition coil failure code. If a trouble code is present but does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the engine is running properly. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running properly is because sometime false codes can be triggered by a rough running engine. Once the engine is running properly the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine isn't running right shouldn't it have a check engine light and a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the intake or exhaust valve operation fails the computer cannot detect the failure because the problem is not sensor related, so the engine doesn't run smooth and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If the trouble code retrieved relates to a cylinder misfire like an injector driver or ignition coil failure first repair these problems then re-test system. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
  • Step 3: The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect the condition of the plug. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
  • Step 4: Check for broken or dilapidated vacuum hoses on and around the engine, your car's engine is designed to run on a system that can hold vacuum. Vacuum hoses are typically connected to the engine intake manifold and will supply engine vacuum to various accessories like power brakes. Some cars are designed with a larger vacuum transfer hose like Ford that connects the intake manifold to the IAC (idle air control) motor. A broken or dilapidated vacuum line or air intake boot can cause the engine to lose vacuum which will allow the engine to run rough and die. Inspect all engine and accessory vacuum lines to look for missing, torn or dilapidated lines and replace as needed. Also have a helper rest their foot on the gas pedal just enough to keep the engine running. Check the engine when it is running to listen for any whistling noise coming from the engine that is not usually present. Follow the noise and inspect vacuum lines in that area. Also, when the engine is running it will pull inward a broken or weak piece of the hose to create a larger vacuum leak. Check the integrity of all vacuum hoses at each end of the hose. Typically this is where a vacuum hose fails. If all vacuum hoses check "ok" proceed to the next step.
Also check here: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Nov 23, 2010 | 2001 Mercury Sable

1 Answer

1997 pontiac grand prix gt stutters on take off


Check the coil packs and EGR:
Exhaust Gas Recirculation System Operation Application of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) gases is regulated by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). It is based on engine coolant temperature, engine speed, vehicle speed, throttle angle and Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP). The operation of the EGR system is monitored by the PCM, which allows gases to flow at a calculated rate and compares it against MAP sensor and oxygen sensor activity. The PCM anticipates an increase in MAP voltage and an increase in O2 sensor voltage.
Electrically operated vacuum control solenoids used to control the flow of vacuum to the EGR valve, rely on pulse-width duty cycle commands from the PCM to control its operation. Using input values and the operating conditions previously mentioned the PCM completes the electrical circuit for the solenoid to allow vacuum operation of the EGR.
In addition to solenoids controlling vacuum flow, the incorporation of a back pressure transducer regulates vacuum signals independently of electrical signals. When back pressure in the exhaust system is low, the transducer pintle is open and manifold vacuum is allowed to bleed off. As back pressure increases the amount of vacuum allowed to bleed off is reduced resulting in more vacuum being applied to the valve. This allows air pressure to open the valve.
The following symptoms can be caused by a faulty EGR valve due to loose connection, bad grounds, high resistance in the circuit, or opens in the circuit.
Related Symptoms
  • Stalling on deceleration
  • Stall at idle
  • Surging off idle
  • Unstable idle
  • Running rough off idle
  • Hesitation
  • Stumble
  • Chuggle
  • Low idle
  • Poor fuel economy
  • Spark knock
  • Stalling on acceleration
---
coil packs:
Diagnosis and Testing Secondary Spark Test These spark tester looks just like a spark plug, attach the clip to ground and crank the engine to check for spark 91052p10.jpg
This spark tester has an adjustable air-gap for measuring spark strength and testing different voltage ignition systems 91052p11.jpg
Attach the clip to ground and crank the engine to check for spark 91052p12.jpg
This spark tester is the easiest to use just place it on a plug wire and the spark voltage is detected and the bulb on the top will flash with each pulse 91052p10.jpg
The best way to perform this procedure is to use a spark tester (available at most automotive parts stores). Three types of spark testers are commonly available. The Neon Bulb type is connected to the spark plug wire and flashes with each ignition pulse. The Air Gap type must be adjusted to the individual spark plug gap specified for the engine. The last type of spark plug tester looks like a spark plug with a grounding clip on the side, but there is no side electrode for the spark to jump to. The last two types of testers allows the user to not only detect the presence of spark, but also the intensity (orange/yellow is weak, blue is strong).
  1. Disconnect a spark plug wire at the spark plug end.
  2. Connect the plug wire to the spark tester and ground the tester to an appropriate location on the engine.
  3. Crank the engine and check for spark at the tester.
  4. If spark exists at the tester, the ignition system is functioning properly.
  5. If spark does not exist at the spark plug wire, perform diagnosis of the ignition system using individual component diagnosis procedures.
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Jul 13, 2010 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix

1 Answer

My 2005 neon failed emissions. It gave me a codes 0441. What excatly does that define?


Trouble Code: P0441 (2.0L L4 VIN C Auto)
EVAP Purge Flow Monitor Fault Print this code dataprint_icon_codes.gif Number of Trips to Set Code: 2
OBD II Monitor Type: CCM Details
Indicators: MIL Details
Trouble Code Conditions:
Engine at idle speed in closed loop for 200 seconds, BARO Sensor signal less than 8,000 feet, ECT Sensor more than 160ºF, no Low Fuel, MAP Sensor signal less than 23.7" Hg, and the PCM did not detect any purge flow through the EVAP system during this test.

Possible Causes:
  • EVAP purge solenoid vacuum line loose, leaking or restricted
  • EVAP purge solenoid stuck leaking, stuck open or stuck closed
  • EVAP purge vacuum line to canister leaking or disconnected
  • EVAP canister leaking, damaged or has failed

2005 Dodge Neon - All Configurations - P0441

Nov 01, 2009 | 2005 Dodge Neon

2 Answers

Flatlining at 3000 RPM


maybe the cam timing is off. If the engine was torn down and reassembled wrong, that would do it. Connect a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold and see what you get for vacuum readings.
It should be about 17 inches at idle. And, it should be steady.

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  1. NORMAL READING: Needle between 51-74 kPa (15-22 in-Hg) and holding steady.
  1. NORMAL READING DURING RAPID ACCELERATION AND DECELERATION: When engine is rapidly accelerated (dotted needle), needle will drop to a low (not to zero) reading. When throttle is suddenly released, the needle will snap back up to a higher than normal figure.
  1. NORMAL FOR HIGH-LIFT CAMSHAFT WITH LARGE OVERLAP: Needle will register as low as 51 kPa (15 in-Hg) but will be relatively steady. Some oscillation is normal.
  1. WORN RINGS OR DILUTED OIL: When engine is accelerated (dotted needle), needle drops to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). Upon deceleration, needle runs slightly above 74 kPa (22 in-Hg).
  1. STICKING VALVES: When the needle (dotted) remains steady at a normal vacuum but occasionally flicks (sharp, fast movement) down and back about 13 kPa (4 in-Hg), one or more valves may be sticking.
  1. BURNED OR WARPED VALVES: A regular, evenly-spaced, downscale flicking of the needle indicates one or more burned or warped valves. Insufficient hydraulic valve tappet clearance will also cause this reaction.
  1. POOR VALVE SEATING: A small but regular downscale flicking can mean one or more valves are not seating.
  1. WORN VALVE GUIDES: When the needle oscillates (swings back and forth) over about a 13 kPa (4 in-Hg) range at idle speed the valve guides could be worn. As engine speed increases, needle will become steady if guides are responsible.
  1. WEAK VALVE SPRINGS: When the needle oscillation becomes more violent as engine rpm is increased, weak valve springs (6513) are indicated. The reading at idle could be relatively steady.
  1. LATE VALVE TIMING: A steady but low reading could be caused by late valve timing.
  1. IGNITION TIMING RETARDING: Retarded ignition timing will produce a steady but somewhat low reading.
  1. INSUFFICIENT SPARK PLUG GAP: When spark plugs (12405) are gapped too close, a regular, small pulsation of the needle can occur.
  1. INTAKE LEAK: A low, steady reading which can be caused by an intake manifold or throttle body gasket leak.
  1. BLOWN HEAD GASKET: A regular drop of fair magnitude can be caused by a blown head gasket (6051) or warped cylinder head-to-cylinder block surface.
  1. RESTRICTED EXHAUST SYSTEM: When the engine is first started and is idled, the reading may be normal but as the engine rpm is increased, the back pressure caused by a clogged muffler, kinked tailpipe or other concerns, will cause the needle to slowly drop to 0 kPa (0 in-Hg). The needle then may slowly rise. Excessive exhaust clogging will cause the needle to drop to a low point even if the engine is only idling.
    When vacuum leaks are indicated, search out and correct the cause. Excess air leaking into the system will upset the fuel mixture and cause concerns such as rough idle, missing on acceleration or burned valves. If the leak exists in an accessory unit such as the power brake booster (2005), the unit will not function correctly. ALWAYS FIX VACUUM LEAKS.

May 25, 2009 | 1994 Ford Mustang

1 Answer

Truck shuts off


Could be idle air control valve, or mass air flow sensor, or a vacuum leak at the intake manifold or vacuum hoses.

May 05, 2009 | 1998 Chevrolet S-10 Pickup

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