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Re: Won't go above an idle
All modern vehicles have a computer or the ECM (Electronic Control Module)
that controls the operation of the vehicle powertrain (the engine and
transmission). The main purpose of this is to keep the engine running
at top efficiency with the lowest possible emissions. With constantly
growing demands for better fuel economy and new strictest emission
regulations it's not very easy to achieve. The engine parameters need
to be constantly and precisely adjusted according to various conditions
such as speed, load, engine temperature, gasoline quality, ambient air
temperature, road conditions, etc. That's why today's cars have much
more electronics than in early days - there is a large number of
various sensors and other electronic devices that help the vehicle
computer or ECM to precisely control the engine and transmission
operation and monitor emissions.
The vehicle computer system has self-testing capability. When the
computer senses that there is a problem with some of the components it
stores the correspondent trouble code(s) in its memory and lights up
the "Check Engine" or "Service Engine Soon" light to tell you that
there is a problem and your car needs to be looked at. To properly
diagnose what is wrong, you need to take your car to a mechanic or a
dealer. The technician at the dealership or a garage will then hook up
the scanner to the car computer and retrieve the stored trouble
code(s). Then he (she) will look it up in the service manual provided
by a car manufacturer.
The service manual contains the list of possible codes (about few
hundreds) and describes what each code means and what needs to be
tested. The code itself doesn't tell exactly what component is
defective - it only indicates where to look, what engine parameter is
out of normal range. The technician will have to perform further
testing to pinpoint a defective part.
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Jan 26, 2013 - 30 posts - 17 authors
Learn more about Saturn VUE at the Edmunds.com Car Forums! ... miles and transmission is stuck i can feel it go into reverse and move ,but not for .... within a few weeks it started popping out of 3rd gear and makes a grinding noice, .... this bolt until I already had done so, now, it will not shift from 2nd to 3rd.
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the auto-transmission control linked to accelerator pedal might have changed its position.loosen the screw on the sliding lever,start the engine ,slowly slide the lever and once it started engaging set t/m about 900rpm.
Kindly tell us whether your engine starts up properly to idle . If yes , then your problem is with the transmission system or with the clutch plates . If the clutch plates are too empty , the gear would be almost stuck . If the car is in N-neutral , try pushing it and while moving slightly try to change the gear . Engine oil and transmission oil should be checked up regularly .
At present situation you will have to have your gear system unjammed or opened up by a professional and have your gear box replaced or checked for jammed gears which is pretty time consuming and difficult job . Else you will have to replace the clutch plates and youre ready to fly again .
Thanking you ,
If the shifter moves but does not feel like it is trying to put car in gear the cable that goes from the shifter to the transmition could have broke or came loose. If that happened while driving the gears may have tried to shift when tension was released from the cable.
There no exact procedure.
What you always want to do with something like this is to work diagonally in small increments.
So hold the pan up while you get 2 opposite bolts started, then start all of them. Then slowly tighten until resistance.
What you do not want to do is move sequentually along the bolts because that will push a bulge in the gasket.
You want to work at least in quarters, and in at least 3 increments of tightening.
The last tightening should actually be the next day, if you want to do it perfectly, because gaskets will give over time. But will break or crush if you move to quickly. The ideal with some like cork, used to be to presoak them. But that is not usually recommended any more.
A torque wrench is not really that much of a help because it encourages people to move too quickly, or crush the gasket if they move too slowly. You are better off simply getting a feel for it.
If you are just learning on your own car, just check it a week later. If some came loose, you did not tighten enough.
First- lets change engine coolant sensor/ECT/ and you will be very surprised.Black head with four pins.Be very carefull when change it because there is pressure into coolant system.First-open slowly the cap of engine coolant tank.Then tighten again to safe coolant.Unplug the sensor,remove the pin and pull out the sensor.If the "O"ring/old one/ is still inside-take it out.
Check the outside temperature. Start the vehicle. Drive at a normal pace for 15 minutes if the outside temperature is above 50 degrees. If the outside temperature is below 50 degrees, drive for an addition 10 minutes.
Park the vehicle in a safe location on a level surface. Place the gear selector in the Park position. Apply the parking brake. Leave the engine running.
Place your foot on the brake pedal and apply pressure. Move the gear shift lever through each gear pausing 3-4 seconds at each location. Return the gear shift lever to the Park position.
Allow the engine to run at idle for 3-5 minutes. With the engine still running, pull back on the hood release lever located under the dash to the left of the driver’s side. Lift the hood to its fully opened position.
Locate the Automatic Transaxle fluid dipstick near the back of the engine. It will have a red loop handle. Grasp the red loop handle and pull the dipstick straight out.
Hello, a sidenote on how new your car is I would not worry about checking your transaxle fluid at the current time. You do the above following information to check your fluid and a good rule of thumb is to not work under a car while it's running. You can check the level by the old forefinger or pinky trick and if you can feel the fluid in the transaxle with your finger the level is fine. I would highly recommend however to check your fluid with your dipstick. If your vehicle does not have one you will have to run through the steps above and check the fluid with a mirror so you do not burn your fingers. I hopes this information solves your problem. Also a sidenote, dealerships have recalled your vehicle for a transaxle leak if yours is leaking do the check above and tighten the fill plug to a torque specification which can be found in a Haynes or Chilton Auto Repair Manual. If your vehicle is under warranty I would have your dealership correct this maintenance issue for you.
Wipe the dipstick clean with the rag or paper towel. Insert the dipstick back into the reservoir. Wait 3-5 seconds. Pull the dipstick straight out.
Observe both sides of the dipstick. Read the side with the lower level of fluid on the dipstick. If the fluid is in the crosshatched area the level is acceptable. Reinsert the dipstick into the reservoir and close the hood. If the level is below the crosshatched area, more fluid should be added to the automatic transaxle.