Question about 1987 Ford Bronco II

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How do you remove clutch housing to replace slave cylinder. Just replaced engine and slave cylinder went out in first 30 miles. And of. Ourselves now every one is going. Why. Didn't you replace it while it was out. I know I can do this but my book is worthless in how to remove clutch. Thanks for any help.

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You must take the transmision out to change the slave cylinder, it slides on the transmission shaft..

Posted on Feb 17, 2011

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Fiesta 1400 2 door clutch pedal pushed to floor and hydraulic fluid poured out. Coming from bell housing clutch to engine. Very big job to fix? Remove motor etc?


It is the slave cylinder inside the bell housing. These are notorious in going out and it looks to be quite entailed. I found a video on it but it only shows how to replace the slave cylinder AFTER the bell housing has been removed.

You will need an 8mm, long barrel, socket plus an extension( to keep from busting up the knuckles) to remove three bolts that holds the slave cylinder to the wall of the bell housing. Once the old one is removed, get some bearing grease and grease down the shaft. this will allow for an easier mount and get it ready to have the bell housing re-assembled.

Here's the link, though it the music is kinda creepy....

Hope this helps. How to Change Clutch Slave Cylinder On Ford Fiesta IB5 Gearbox

Aug 15, 2017 | Ford Fiesta Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Wont go into gear while driving has to be turned off then it will has new clutch


It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging when depressed. What is the year make and model? It most likely has a hydraulic clutch. Many vehicles have the clutch slave cylinder inside the bell housing of the transmission. This means that the fluid line to the slave cylinder was removed to remove the transmission. If a new slave cylinder was installed when the clutch was replaced (this is a good idea to do when servicing a clutch with a bell housing internal slave cylinder) then the system will need to be bled to remove air from the system and allow the clutch disengagement to function properly.

Mar 07, 2017 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2004 ford focus 2.0liter. clutch pedaL GOES TO FLOOR. brake master full of fluid.I clutch master or clutch slave cylinder bad?


a plastic master cyl !

master cyl is bypassing internally

slave cylinder is inside the gearbox bell housing
if its leaking .....gearbox out




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Nov 11, 2016 | 2004 Ford Focus

1 Answer

How to remove clutch master cylinder at gearbox


the clutch master cylinder is on the fire wall at the pedal. The slave cylinder is on the gear box bell housing and in some cars it is now inside the bell housing which necessitates the gearbox removal to replace it.. Removal of an external cylinder is to loosen the hose fitting ,unbolt the slave cylinder and then un-csrew the cylinder off the hose

Jan 06, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

I just replaced clutch on 1993 Honda accord ex and the release cylinder isn't pushing the release bearing enough to shift when car is running


I really need more info such as...Mileage,did you do the job yourself,if so was the slave cylinder and or clutch master cylinder changed and did you bleed the system..?...So I will explain without knowing,,...Before a clutch wears completely out we find ourselves constantly working the clutch pedal stressing all clutch system components..In most cases I have looked closely and found slave cylinder and clutch master cylinder leaking ..however the slave cylinder can wear out without leaking..Most importantly the fluid itself wears out every 15 to 20,000 miles.. You don't notice but the fluid gets thousands of tiny air bubbles in it and makes the clutch weak and spongy..(Same with brakes)..You should always bleed system with an assistant just as you would a brake system..,This alone will cause the problem you are experiencing...If you already know that and you have bled the clutch system then you know the slave cylinder is at fault..(UNLESS THERE WAS SOME TYPE OF MISALIGNMENT WITH RELEASE BEARING....YOU SHOULD ALWAYS CHANGE RELEASE BEARING WITH FORK WHEN DOING A CLUTCH SERVICE..)...I assume you did...I would inspect for leaks..,Bleed it again if no leaks...If that don't help and no leaks are found change slave cylinder and or master cylinder.....I hope this helps........Brooks/Metalpoet.......

Jun 13, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Hydraulic leaking


Do you have a hydraulic operated clutch? The slave cylinder for a hydraulic clutch would be on or sometimes inside the bell housing. Some ford and chevy trucks put the slave cylinder in a very difficult to reach place-the transmission has to be removed to service the slave cylinder. Most cars have the slave cylinder mounted on the outside of the bell housing. If they leak, replace or rebuild, although those internal slave cylinders I think can only be replaced.

Dec 31, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 1997 saturn sc2 im trying to bleed the clutch slave cylinder


In this car, there is no bleed port provided. The hydraulic clutch system is closed and is sold only as a complete set of master, reservoir, slave, and line. The set is priced at $130 at autozone.com. I have pasted the replacement instructions from autozone.com below. Please let me know if you have more questions.

See Figures 1, 2, 3 and 4
The master cylinder, pipes and slave cylinder are a complete assembly and must be replaced as a single unit.
  1. Block the clutch pedal to prevent it from being depressed while the slave cylinder is removed from the transaxle.
  2. Remove the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  3. Disconnect the negative battery cable first, then the positive cable.
  4. Remove the battery hold-down retainer.
  5. Remove the battery from the vehicle. Store the battery in a safe location, but do not place it on a concrete surface for any long period of time or it will discharge.
  6. Remove the battery tray. Note that one battery tray mounting fastener is only accessible through the fender well.
  7. Rotate the slave cylinder about 1 / 4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing, in order to disengage the connector and remove the cylinder from the clutch housing. Remove the slave cylinder bracket retaining nuts and pull the assembly from the studs.
  8. If equipped with ABS, remove the brake master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts. Move the master cylinder off of the mounting studs and slightly toward the engine, being careful not to bend or kink the brake lines.
  9. Remove the master cylinder pushrod retaining clip from the clutch pedal pin and disconnect the pushrod from the pedal.
  10. Rotate the clutch cylinder about 1 / 8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel. Remove the hydraulic assembly from the vehicle.

To install:
  1. Install the clutch master cylinder into the dashboard with the reservoir leaning toward the driver' fender. Rotate the cylinder about 1 / 8 turn counterclockwise to lock it in position.

When installing a new assembly, the plastic retainer straps should remain in place on the slave cylinder, to ensure that the actuator rod seats on the release fork pocket upon installation. If reinstalling an assembly, be sure to position a new plastic retainer strap onto the end of the pushrod and attach the straps to the cylinder.
  1. If equipped with ABS, place the brake master cylinder into position on the power booster mounting studs. Install and tighten the master cylinder-to-power booster mounting nuts to 20 ft. lbs. (27 Nm).
  2. Slide the slave cylinder onto the clutch housing studs, then install the nuts and tighten to 18 ft. lbs. (25 Nm).
  3. Insert the slave cylinder into the clutch housing with the hydraulic line facing down and rotate about 1 / 4 turn clockwise while pushing it into the housing.
  4. Lubricate the clutch pedal pin with silicone grease, then connect the pushrod to the clutch pedal and install the retaining clip.
  5. Install the battery tray. Tighten the battery tray mounting fasteners to 89 inch lbs. (10 Nm).
  6. Place the battery into the battery tray. Be careful that the battery terminals do not short against any metal during the installation.
  7. Install the battery hold-down retainer.
  8. Connect the positive battery cable first, then the negative cable.
  9. Install the air cleaner/intake duct assembly.
  10. Remove the block from behind the clutch pedal and, if equipped, properly enable the SIR system.
  11. Start the engine and check the pedal for proper operation.
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Fig. Fig. 1: Block the clutch pedal to prevent slave cylinder damage, should the pedal be depressed while the cylinder is removed from the transaxle


999d0d2.gif Fig. Fig. 2: To remove, rotate the slave cylinder about 1/4 turn counterclockwise while pushing toward the bell housing

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Fig. Fig. 3: This plastic retaining strap must remain on the slave cylinder to ensure proper seating of the actuator rod against the release fork
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Fig. Fig. 4: Rotate the clutch master cylinder about 1/8 turn clockwise and remove it from the instrument panel


HYDRAULIC SYSTEM BLEEDING The clutch hydraulic assembly has been filled with fluid and bled of air at the factory. Do not attempt to bleed the hydraulic system. While the unit does not require periodic checking, it must be serviced, when necessary, as a complete assembly. The system is full when the reservoir is half full.
Only DOT 3 brake fluid should be added to the system. If the fluid level drops, inspect the system, including the slave cylinder, for leakage. A slight wetting of the slave cylinder surface is normal. Fill the clutch master cylinder reservoir with brake fluid. Be careful not to spill brake fluid on the painted surface of the vehicle.

Oct 31, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

1 Answer

1992 Chevy Silverado - Clutch Slave Cylinder broke


JB weld will not work get it welded by a pro with the proper hi frequency welder otherwise you will have to replace the box ,and yes get a new cylinder ,hope you get sorted

Mar 03, 2010 | 1992 Chevrolet S-10

2 Answers

New clutch won't work.


There are several things to check here. First check that the master cylinder to the clutch is working correctly. Then check that the slave cylinder is working. The Fords are sometimes difficult to bleed. The other item unfortunately is in the bell housing. There is a pivot that the release fork rolls over in the bell housing. Fords are famous for these breaking and causing the clutch to not disengage. The other problem could be the release fork is bent. These are not all fix it items. Just all the probable items that could be the problem. Hope this helps you. Usually you can just get the flywheel resurfaced for about $12. Was your flywheel junk? I hope someone didn't just decide to sell you a flywheel. Let me know what you find.

Mar 15, 2009 | 2003 Ford Ranger Regular Cab

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