Question about Hyundai Motor 2002 Sonata
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: 2002 hyundai sonata headlights
GENERATOR OUTPUT LINE VOLTAGE DROP TEST
This test determines the condition of the wiring from the generator "B" terminal to the battery (+) terminal (including the fusible link). 1. Be sure to check the following before testing: a. Generator installation and wiring connections b. Generator drive belt tension c. Fusible link d. Abnormal noises from the generator while the engine is running. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 3. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 4. Disconnect the generator output wire from the generator "B" terminal. Connect a DC test ammeter with a range of 0-100A in series between the "B" terminal and the disconnected output wire. (Connect the (+) lead of the ammeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the ammeter to the disconnected output wire.) An inductive-type ammeter which enables measurements to be taken without disconnecting the generator output wire is recommended. Using this equipment will lessen the possibility of a voltage drop caused by a loose "B" terminal connection. 5. Connect a digital-type voltmeter between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal. (Connect the (+) lead of the voltmeter to the "B" terminal. Connect the (-) lead of the voltmeter to the battery (+) cable.) 6. Reconnect the negative battery cable. 7. Connect a tachometer or the scan tool. 8. Start the engine. 9. With the engine running at approx. 2500 rpm, turn the headlights and other lights on and off to adjust the generator load on the ammeter slightly above 30A. Limit: max. 0.3V When the generator output is high and the value displayed on the ammeter does not decrease to 30A, set the value to 40A. Read the value displayed on the voltmeter. In this case the limit becomes max. 0.4V. 10. If the value displayed on the voltmeter is still above the limit, a fault in the generator output wire may exist. Check the wiring between the generator "B" terminal and the battery (+) terminal (including fusible link). If a terminal is not sufficiently tight or if the harness has become discolored due to overheating, repair, then test again. 11. After the test, run the engine at idle. 12. Turn off all lights and turn the ignition switch to the OFF position. 13. Disconnect the tachometer or the scan tool. 14. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 15. Disconnect the ammeter and voltmeter. 16. Connect the generator output wire to the generator "B" terminal. 17. Connect the negative battery cable.
Posted on Jun 05, 2008
Posted on Apr 23, 2009
Experience with this problem points to several possible causes. First, hood switch is improperly adjusted or rubber button on the underside of the hood which strikes this switch is missing or worn out (does the 'answer back' feature (horn toot) occur when you press the "lock" button on the keyless remote twice?). If it doesn't, this is the first place to look -- is the hood bent out of shape? Often I have found the hood adjustment is SO CLOSE to the hood switch being 'CLOSED', that a simple gust of WIND can set off the alarm.
Next, each door and the trunk have switches which must be in their proper positions (closed -- Open Circuit communication with the ETACS module) for the burglar alarm to SET Active/ON. The problem could be at any one of these switches, not to mention the ETACS module itself. Best solution:Take/tow the vehicle into a Hyundai Service Center (dealership), pay the diagnostic fee. They will tell you EXACTLY what the problem is and what's needed to fix it (parts, labor, tax, time-frame, etc.).
Posted on Jun 06, 2009
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