Question about 1993 Chevrolet Cavalier
It should be on the side where the gas tank is running along the fram of the car. You should see a small stanless steel or copper line running along the fram under the car near the rear of the car. Follow it until you see the filter.
Posted on Oct 02, 2010
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
I just changed one today (5/28/05) on a 2002 cavalier. A few feet from
the end of the car, located in the middle (basically right after the
trunk). To change it is pretty easy if you take the plastic clips sort
of off (this gave me LOTS of trouble but now I can take off this end in
2 seconds). Just pinch the plastic clip (green on my car) & then
push the platic clip almost out. Then pull that side out (watch out -
you will have gas come out). Then unscrew the other side. I had to take
off another part to unscrew this side because of little room.
Also - BEFORE you start - take off the gas cap, jackstand the car &
I also removed the fuel pump fuse (located in the engine, driver side).
- Taken from wiki answers.
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
SOURCE: 97 Chevy Cavalier misfiring
Sounds like it's you spark plug leads. Depending which engine you have in there, if you have the 2.4L then it is a module.
Posted on Jun 27, 2009
Testimonial: "Thanks SOOOOOO Much"
Chech the ground on the pump from wire harness from tank....they get old and lose the capacity to ground ....also check for power at the tank with a circuit tester....if no power...you have wiring issues...
Posted on Aug 09, 2009
First, if your car still runs, pull the fuel pump relay, and start your car, letting it run until it dies. This will depressurize the fuel system. Then you must support the fuel tank, and take loose the straps that hold it up. Slowly lower the tank until you can unhook the tank filler hose and overflow hose by taking the clamps off and sliding the hoses off. lower it some more, and unhook the fuel lines; they require you to insert a special tool around the edge of the connection, however this can be improvised with screwdrivers or a piece of plastic or metal bent into a C shape. Next unhook the wire connection. Once you get it down, it's easiest to empty as much fuel as you can; as this will help you get it back into place. The fuel pump is inside the tank, which locks into place with a 1/8th turn. You will need a hammer and a brass punch for this job, as it needs to be tapped around to unlock. It will then lift out. Compare the two pump assemblies. The inside parts can be slightly different, but ensure that the fuel lines are IDENTICAL and the wire connection is IDENTICAL. The new one will come with a new silicone seal. Ensure that you don't put the new one in in such a way as the float doesn't bind, otherwise you'll be doing this procedure again if you don't like guessing how much gas you have. This can be a challenge to wrestle with putting the new one in, as you have to push it down to compress the new seal, and turn it to lock it. Once you get it started, you can let up and use the hammer and punch again to tighten it the rest of the way. Next, put it back together just as you took it apart, and don't forget to hook up the wires, hoses, and fuel lines. No tools required for the fuel lines, they just snap together. Once everything's tight and hooked up, put gas back in it, and if you haven't already, put the fuel pump relay back in. This you can do as soon as the car dies, and is completely optional if the car won't run at all. You are now ready to start it up, but turn the ignition on to the run position, wait a few seconds for the pump to pressurize, and then start it. Have fun, and feel free to ask any questions should you have any.
Posted on Feb 22, 2010
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