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there is a code set in the abs module that needs to be checked out to help find were to start diagnosing. it could be a wheel speed sensor, poor connection, broken wire, problem with the abs hydraulic unit so the code needs to be pulled and system repaired to put out light, note that until this is fixed you have no abs working and your braking like a car without abs.
Your e-brake cable that is connected to back brakes could be binding,cable could be bad,remove both bake drums and inspect brake shoe with cable connected to it.Also check inside drum for scoring and brake shoes,if worn uneven,replace both sides.
SOUNDS LIKE YOUR ABS IS ACTIVATING it will not set a code because computer thinks it is doing what it is supposed to do. so what is most likely happening is a wheel speed sensor is dropping out causing unit to see one wheel at zero mph and abs kicks in. need a scan tool hooked to it to see which one is causing issue
I WOULD NOT KEEP DRIVING IT.WHEN ABS LIGHTS AND BRAKE LIGHTS COME ON.YOU HAVE BRAKE FAILURE. TOW IT TO DEALERSHIP HAVE IT SERVICE.AND CHECK THE ABS BRAKES SYSTEM .BECAUSE ABS BRAKE SYSTEM IS NOT A HOME FIX.BECAUSE THE ABS HYDRAULIC MODULATOR UNIT HAS LOWER FROM HOME POSITION .IN ORDER TO MOVE THE MASTER CYLINDER FROM UNIT.YOU NEED A TECH 2 SCANNER TO DO THE JOB.TO GET ABS BRAKES TO BLEED RIGHT BEST TO GET THEM PRESSURE BLEED INSTEAD OF MANUAL BLEEDING GET LESS AIR IN SYSTEM.THAT WHY SEE DEALER SHIP HAS THE THINGS TO DO THE JOB.
You most likely need to replace your brake switch, which is a
a $8 part. If you look up along the brake peddle you will see it depressing a switch. on the end of that switch is a electrical connector that you can press on one side to remove.
Once removed your brake lights will be disconected and your ABS
light should go off. You then need to replace the switch that it pluged in to.